abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

For those who delete EGR on these vehicles --- just make sure your ignition timing is capable of adjusting in a range closer to 0 deg as your knock sensor picks up detonation when you have no EGR on this high compression engine. The OEM ECU was mapped to compensate timing with the knock sensor knowing EGR was present to partially subside detonation (engine knock). We all know (or should know) what can happen if detonation isn't well controlled on these engines.
 

abeans

Member
Not too worried. EGR is closed during wot. Parts car made it 240k with a egr delete, and we got some decent fuel in Michigan. ...and if i don’t end up wanting to jump off a bridge at the end of this project, might treat the car to some Link ECU.


Some more brain dump;

Finished up the floor pan rustproofing. (Thank god) more odds and ends arrived... I THINK i got almost all the gaskets i need to put the engine back together, timing kit arrived.

Need a plan to figure out what i want to do with the giant hole that was expanded from one of the rubber booted firewall holes.. and figure out heatercore lines. A/C is staying deleted because it’s Michigan.

I think i’ll end up keeping the battery in the trunk for some engine bay real estate. The car came with cables and a box, but was pulled though a sharp cut hole (dangerous AF on top of the usual garbage mechanic stuff) so might figure out a cleaner positive cable routing before putting the interior back in.

I appreciate the feedback from everyone keeping me motivated some.
 

abeans

Member
Starting working on the water pump and found out rockauto lists the wrong kit for a turbo 1990 Celica. They gave me the non turbo setup. SKF TBK199WP = no fit. :cry:



Also fuck that guy who decided a Phillips head on the water pump was a good idea. (Yes, my coolant cavity's are horrendous)

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Got some of the interior back in. HVAC is back in.

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Bonus pic, picked up a SPAL fan, to compliment the mishimoto. Friend brought over his works CFM reader to see what everyones fan would do... Oem.. aftermarket (SPAL dominated)

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Making some HPDE patches with rivets to fill the terrible firewall cuts... Not the most pretty, but this won't ever be a show car anyway.

Still don't know what to do with the sunroof, going to need a full assembly from a parts car i think. My buddy found a coupe '91 in the junkyard with no sunroof. :(
 
abeans":dq4mabgd said:
Not too worried. EGR is closed during wot. Parts car made it 240k with a egr delete, and we got some decent fuel in Michigan. ...and if i don’t end up wanting to jump off a bridge at the end of this project, might treat the car to some Link ECU.
Just saw this response. I find it an interesting conclusion that an EGR system can be plugged/deleted without consequence. This response contradicts the conclusion.

Yes, by design, an EGR valve is closed when the engine is cold, is idling, or is under wide open throttle. The ECU mapping is designed to retard timing under wide open throttle to compensate for the otherwise normal benefit of EGR into the intake to reduce detonation. So removing EGR has no consequence on an engine when under wide open throttle. That is understood.

Detonation also can happen in an engine at less than wide open throttle. In an engine designed for EGR, the ECU doesn't retard timing as much as an engine without EGR. Knock sensors will help retarding ignition timing further, true. But understand the ECU ignition timing map is based on EGR control and knock sensor feedback. Now, take away EGR that is normally present in this case, and the knock sensor detects knock, the ECU will retard timing only to the extent it is mapped to do (which incorporates the benefits of EGR being partly open). Delete or block EGR, the timing will not retard sufficiently to eliminate knock - so it will be present. Will it be sufficient to damage the engine? I'm not sure, are you? And is that a risk you want to take?

Remap the ECU ignition timing to handle ignition timing as if not EGR was designed to be present, and you would be OK. But in this case, while you are protecting your engine, you really don't get any more torque/power than with an EGR system and an ECU mapped to work with an EGR. Retarding timing more due to the lack of EGR has negative performance results.

Or, block/delete EGR without remapping the ECU ignition timing and live with the added risk. Up to the user. But need to know you are adding risk.

My last response on this topic.
 

Magroo

New member
"Bonus pic, picked up a SPAL fan, to compliment the mishimoto. Friend brought over his works CFM reader to see what everyones fan would do... Oem.. aftermarket (SPAL dominated)"

After buying some of those shitty low profile fans on ebay and realizing they suck I bought a spal fan and made a radiator shroud out of an aluminum cookie sheet.

It seriously helped my temps especially in the summertime.

And yes you read that correctly. I used a $10 aluminum cookie sheet from walmart that was an almost perfect fit. Radiator core was 12.75", the cookie sheet was 13" had to massage it down with a hammer for that 1/4".

It was one like this but sold in store. Was listed at 13x19
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Nordic-Ware- ... t/38576342
 

abeans

Member
It's a very good idea. I was looking for cookie sheets for awhile actually, but ultimately, i picked up some spal brackets that i'll attach to the oem locations, i really doubt i'll have any cooling issues compared to the stock junk, the mishimoto is massive, and the spal probably moves twice the CFM as OE fan/shroud.

Aside from me waiting for my timing kit i pieced together (again) Got a bunch of silicone adapters, clamps some piping to clean up the engine bay some for the FMIC, my buddy is trading me his Treadstone TR6 intercooler so i can junk the ebay garbage on the car currently.

The 'CT27' Showed up from ATS Racing Looks pretty slick... Guess i won't have much to compare to power wise, but its more of a reliability/modernizing mod in my book.

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Have a WTB thread in the classifieds for a sunroof, got a couple leads so hopefully i won't have to worry about that soon. :shrug:
 

abeans

Member
Slow progress. Made a CAD templete for the flywheel cover with its natural grime. Cut and drilled it out with some scrap steel.

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Pulled the oil pan because i thought it was leaking, and it was in the way of the plate... And wanted to verify if the engine was actually replaced. Looks very clean, so i am happy with that.

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Timing parts arrived as well, so got the waterpump on, working on the rest.


No for sures on the sunroof yet, just some parts.
 

abeans

Member
Found this gem too.

This is the oil drain into the oil pan adapter. The Brass hose barb was threaded (yes, threaded, somehow..) and RTV'd into the stock turbo drain plug.

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Amazing.
 

abeans

Member
3sgte exhaust studs suck. Majority pulled out the threads, and fought hard to come off. Welding seemed to be the best option.

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Showing our displeasure upon completion.

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Got a helicoil kit on the way. m10x1.25 is not in my standard tool arsenal. :shoots:


Timing is done. That wasn't too bad, but lots of raising and lowering of the engine to get to bolts and things.

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Also installed a Brooks Racing motor mount (Just engine side for now, while its apart) Fun fact, GC subaru wheel bearings make a perfect size die for pressing out the mounts.

More previous owner left overs....

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6itdjiMl.mp4
 

FC Zach

Active member
I would use a time-sert, much better than a helicoil.

EDIT: Were you the one on the FB group asking about stud removal to install titanium replacements? If so, do you regret it now LOL :lol:
 

abeans

Member
FC Zach":15m4521t said:
I would use a time-sert, much better than a helicoil.

EDIT: Were you the one on the FB group asking about stud removal to install titanium replacements? If so, do you regret it now LOL :lol:
I looked at those as well.. Concern i had, is the size you need to hog it out too. Mcmastercarr had the drill/tap size listed at m14... which is huge, not familar with the cylinder head enough to be confident i wasn't going to take away material that is needed.

Not on facebook, i picked up some new stock from primedriven. I think they are from a supra? Steel.


93celicaconv":15m4521t said:
What caused you to want to remove studs in the head by the exhaust ports?

So, some of them were bent. I actually had to hammer some straight to get the old manifold off... Not sure why. Guessing more PO shenanigans. and couple the exterior threads were bad when it came off... I would have preferred to leave them
 

FC Zach

Active member
abeans":1vmqa412 said:
FC Zach":1vmqa412 said:
I would use a time-sert, much better than a helicoil.
I looked at those as well.. Concern i had, is the size you need to hog it out too. Mcmastercarr had the drill/tap size listed at m14... which is huge, not familar with the cylinder head enough to be confident i wasn't going to take away material that is needed.

If you ever pull a coil, a time-sert is always a pan-b. . I also needed remove/replace a damaged exhaust stud and destroyed the threads while doing that too, I used a time-sert and it worked great.
 

abeans

Member
Thats good to know thanks.

Welp. My exhaust manifold has a crack on one of the banks.. all the way through... sigh

Anyone got a replacement? Or Reccomend reliable one thats stock turbo compatible ?
 

FC Zach

Active member
I think I do (can't remember if I already sold it), I'll try to remember to check in the morning.
 

abeans

Member
Thanks Zack! let me know please.

So my next hurdle is the dipstick. The yellow handle is from the maroon car. The rusty one is from the parts car.

Im guessing the yellow one is a mr2 dipstick..? The celica one looks to have broke or separated in the old motor, but that still doesn't answer the length. Why are these two different lengths?

Can i run the mr2 stick? Are celica/mr2 pans the same?


https://imgur.com/a/T0aGxrk
 

abeans

Member
Threads are fixed.

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Exhaust manifold purchased.

Should have a sunroof Sunday.

I still don't know what i am going to do about the dipstick... Doesn't seem to be one used i can find. MR2 one is weird, and i guess my celica one is broke?

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abeans

Member
More de-fcukery

Hose jammed in the mount.
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Out with that garbage.

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Drove 1 hour to see this POS

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Outcha go!

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Smokers car, disgusting. Bottom part is untouched before cleaning.

Couple more scrubs.
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Still need oil dipstick tube solution. :bangshead:
 
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