abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

abeans

Member
alltracman78":34zbrshs said:
YW

Hope that fixes it. :)

Back to waterpump this weekend. Got it swapped over. My poor hands...what a literal pain.

It was pretty late when I finished, so I didn't get a chance to get the car up to temp.

Bad pump vs good (don't make this mistake)
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abeans

Member
Car seems better today. Hard to tell if its "fixed", the rad fan never turns off, but i do have a lower thermostat switch 185F~

I picked up aftermarket temp gauge, only sure way to tell. (Since the oem cluster a'int saying shit for whatever reason) Lower radiator hose 100% has more pressure, but oddly its still not hot as i would expect.
 

abeans

Member
Haven't updated in a minute.

Good news, water pump fixed cooling issues, holds a good temp now. - Im not loving the fan thermostat kicks on, seems to be way too early. 190F~ ON 175~ off. So basically it never turns off once its running, but thats de-prioritized at the moment



I evicted the cold start injector sensor used this adapter from autometer to install my coolant 1/8 sensor
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Put the headliner in and some other interior bits (Flocked dash looks pretty good). - The non sunroof headliner poses some challenges with the dome light as it is in a different spot, going to make a bracket to have to mount it.
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Have i mentioned whoever worked on this car before me was some kind of animal?

Fixed the VSS (chopped the wires clean off.)
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Mirror harness (chopped wires clean off.)
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Mirrors are SO red compared to the burgundy looks worse than the old ones, but they are in much better shape. Gotta hold for future paint


So with being confident the car is not overheating i drove it around the block, some notes:

- Car is very unhappy when i get into boost, stumbles and falls on its face... I haven't set the distributor spark timing yet, so i need to do that soon... It could also be that my fuel pump is relayed and not using the stock wiring? Uses resistance pack? It goes full peg rich with load (boost)

- Polyurethane engine and trans mounts (specifically the sides) from BRD and i regret it. Waytoo much NVH, going to have to swap those out for stock.

- Power steering pump still not hooked up (Avoiding because its a nightmare)

- Some horrendous clunk in the drivers side under steering with load. Something suspension, gotta be axle ,control arm balljoint tie rod end...
 

abeans

Member
Clunk should be fixed, loose balljoint. That one is on me... :eek:wned:

Power steering pump is off.

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This thread was some help: viewtopic.php?f=49&t=28221

I used the old engine as a reference as well. (This is SO easy to change off the car, do yourself a favor and change the pump if you ever pull the engine)

https://i.imgur.com/2ZlNNZZl.mp4 URL
2ZlNNZZl.mp4


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Ultimately, i was just going to get the belt on, but i have a feeling this thing is/was leaking. No way i'm going back in there again, so i got a new non-reman pump on the way.

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So, it's probably not the by the books way, but my technique: (probably pull that vacuum pressure sensor off before hand as well its like $100 bucks new)
Get the pump off the bracket so it's loose.
Pull tie rod end
Undo the high pressure banjo bolt on top of the pump 7/8 IIRC
Undo the low pressure from the reservoir side.
Get the pump peaking from the tie rod end hole, undo the pully 17mm
Pull that thing and spin it till it comes out of that tie rod end hole.


If someone has better tips for when the new pump goes back in I'm all ears.
 

abeans

Member
Pumpy boi is back in. Learned a lot, could probably do it much faster, but i would have cried if i was a Toyota tech and this car came in for warranty work. - 'S' 14mm and wobbel head 14mm racheting wrench are must haves.


-Put pump in loose through tie rod hole, nothing bolted to it (except maybe that vacuum pressure sensor, i plugged mine because it's dumb.)

-Once in the back of the car, get the pully on there. Impact it on 17mm (aim through the bottom)

-I would then get the high pressure line + banjo started by hand tight. Use the Toyota oem 1 piece crush washer if you don't want to hate life.

- Get the pump oriented into the top bracket, make sure the though bolt actually goes through the hole... Get it hand tight so the pump can still rock

- At this point get the front 'L' bracket on, and the lower tensioner through bolt in (hand loose)

- Tq banjo down, get low pressure line on there, tighten clamp. Throw away crimp clamps and use a worm gear, because they are garbage.

- Tighten everything else on there except the lower pump tensioner through bolt.

- Throw on belty boi, and tighten the last through bolt on.

Some pictures.

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Welded this leaky turd shut.

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abeans

Member
Well my power steering is back together and the plug i shut welded leaks. LOL. So going to... Come up with a new solution, i despise that stock vacuum assist sensor.

While i was down there i noticed the knock sensor. Looks to be a ATS Racing/GM sensor. I'm betting this not being connected is causing some of my on power issues. (perhaps someone can confirm)

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Doesn't look like it was ever connected on the hacked apart harness originally in the car (can't say im surprised) so i never messed with it.

Got a new pigtail and i'll splice in, if i can find where that stock knock sensor wiring lives.
 

underscore

Well-known member
It runs with no knock sensor? When mine was broken (along with the wire) the car ran so poorly it could barely get out of its own way.

I wouldn't bother trying to find or connect to the original wiring, it's pretty easy to damage so you're much better off just running a brand new shielded wire to the ECU.
 

autojumbled

New member
good write up on the pump install. Shame it STILL leaks! :p
Not sure its possible for a gen5 to exist without a leak of some kind though right?
 

abeans

Member
underscore":epk9jopu said:
It runs with no knock sensor? When mine was broken (along with the wire) the car ran so poorly it could barely get out of its own way.

I wouldn't bother trying to find or connect to the original wiring, it's pretty easy to damage so you're much better off just running a brand new shielded wire to the ECU.
It does indeed. I can't get into boost currently, but it putts around OK. I'm guessing ecu is in full safe mode when load gets put on.

That's good to know about the wiring. Once I get the car running good I'll likely refurb the whole harness.. It's a mess.

autojumbled":epk9jopu said:
good write up on the pump install. Shame it STILL leaks! :p
Not sure its possible for a gen5 to exist without a leak of some kind though right?

I'll get it. My buddy is going to make a plug for it. He might make some more as it seems to be a plauge on powersteering.

Ah come on, don't tell me that. I've owned Ford's and I can get them not to leak. Toyotas are supposed to be reliable. :D
 

abeans

Member
Power steering vaccum sensor delete - Round two.

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My buddy is going to make more of these incase anyone is interested. (Once confirmed working)
 

abeans

Member
Power steering plug is a success! No stalling issues with the 245 tires and no vaccum switch. Most importantly, no leaks.

Took the car for another drive, first time with power steering and a knock sensor. Runs much much better.

Still has some serious hesitation under load. - Need to set distributor timing, hoping that fixes it...

If it doesn't, i'm wondering if it am too far away from the factory ECU tune at that point? Intake had the secondary valves taken out VRIS or whatever Toyota calls them, and missing egr and other emissions stuff. Catless downpipe and full 3" exhaust might contribute as well.
 

abeans

Member
Car runs and drives great now after re-timing, and tightening a couple intercooler clamps. What a great feeling!

Things i noticed (So i don't forget)
-My gauge cluster is doing this: https://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=48848
-Seems like the speedo cable isn't working either, I'll have another go while that's apart. (Starting to notice a pattern -with these gauge clusters)
-Power steering belt started squealing. :pissed:
-Car is too low and rubs on turns in passenger right. Must raise coilovers.
-One of the rear caliper bolts fell out on the drive. LOL. Might have to double check myself.
-Plastic burning smell, might be left over piece of harness that made it on the downpipe still burning off, i hope. (Fire extinguisher bracket incoming)
-The headlamps are terrible. Convert to halogens? very yes.
-Car smells super rich still. Might be the walbro 255? Will check wideband later.


Other than that, need to tidy up the rest of the interior. Got a couple gauge mountings i need to do, to make sure i don't blow it up. I picked up a lotek A-piller pod, as i have that on my SVT and love it. BUT on the Celica, it fits poorly. Bottom pod touches the dash. I see cutting in my future.


here is my slightly sarcastic, plan. Got quite the mix bag of gauges left over from the two cars combined.
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underscore

Well-known member
Check out the combo gauges from Innovate, they could save you some dash space. I've got the oil press/temp combo and the boost pressure/boost controller/wideband combo and really like them.
 

abeans

Member
Yes I have 3 of them on my SVT.Easily my favorite.

I picked up the water/volt combo for the car when I was troubleshooting the cooling issues.
Https://i.imgur.com/RN6Cosr.jpg

Still, it's tough to justify. I usually believe in buy once, cry once but since I have a big pile of gauges that came with the 2 cars...
 

abeans

Member
abeans":37hz7dgh said:
-Power steering belt started squealing. :pissed:
-One of the rear caliper bolts fell out on the drive. LOL. Might have to double check myself.
These 2 ended up being related. I was wrong about the caliper bolt it was the lower power steering lower bolt. Put the bolt back in.... Tighter... :bangshead:

abeans":37hz7dgh said:
-Plastic burning smell, might be left over piece of harness that made it on the downpipe still burning off, i hope. (Fire extinguisher bracket incoming)

This went away. Im guessing my hunch was correct. Fire extinguisher still getting installed with a mount.

alltrac801":37hz7dgh said:
As far as headlights go I would suggest these or something similar!

Thanks for the recommendation, i really need new housings. One is cracked. Not a fan of fluted lens's, and overall lightput is laughable. After doing a bunch of reading, and based on looks/value i think these are the choice: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E ... 0DER&psc=1

I let one of my buddys drive around last night a bit see what he thinks (got the blitz blow off valve hooked up too, wow is it loud) You can hear his post drive late night commentary. It does run pretty good over all considering where its come from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZyFOBacPms
 

abeans

Member
Spent a bunch of time taking apart the gauge cluster to repair the blown capacitor and i fixed it, must have messed up the needle as it now idles at 3k :bangshead:

Aaaannnnd gas light is stuck on too. These clusters are complete garbage, no wonder i see so many people with aftermarket options. It's getting binned. Going to megasquirt PNP, haven't decided what im doing for a cluster.



On a unrelated note. Heres what it looks like on stock wheels with winters on.

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This is with the Megan coils maxed out in the rear. Kinda worry some for any off road excursions.

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See the fluid in the passenger rear? That's the tail light leaking, blinker fluid.
 
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