abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby underscore » Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:27 pm

Pop the ECU open and make sure the caps haven't leaked. Two are more prone to leaking than the rest (but they all should be replaced at this age) and if memory serves one of them is by the injector drivers.
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★ 1991 GTFour RC ~ "Rebel Scum" ★
Build thread http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=44216
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Mon Mar 23, 2020 7:31 pm

underscore wrote:Pop the ECU open and make sure the caps haven't leaked. Two are more prone to leaking than the rest (but they all should be replaced at this age) and if memory serves one of them is by the injector drivers.

I can take a look. But - the parts car ran before i sent it to Toyota heaven. Only thing i question on it is me accidentally grounding out a positive lead....

I'm more suspect of the distributor just given the age and sitting
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:08 pm

Are you using ECU and the distributor from the parts car that previously ran? Which engine wiring harness to the ECU are you using?
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Mon Mar 23, 2020 8:15 pm

93celicaconv wrote:Are you using ECU and the distributor from the parts car that previously ran? Which engine wiring harness to the ECU are you using?

Ecu = parts car
Wire harness= parts car
Distributor= maroon car (the parts car had 240k miles so I'd rather not just swap this)

Swapped the other two ignition modules with no change.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:27 pm

When you touched the negative battery terminal to the positive post of the battery (assuming the positive cable was attached to the battery positive post, and the negative cable was properly fastened to engine/chassis ground), was the engine running at the time or ignition key in the on position? Or was the engine off and the ignition in the off position?
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Mon Mar 23, 2020 10:30 pm

93celicaconv wrote:When you touched the negative battery terminal to the positive post of the battery (assuming the positive cable was attached to the battery positive post, and the negative cable was properly fastened to engine/chassis ground), was the engine running at the time or ignition key in the on position? Or was the engine off and the ignition in the off position?

It was off.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:26 pm

If all was off, I will assume you had no sparks at all when the contact was made, if if there was any it was very minor/brief.

In this case, all you did was brought up the ground potential from 0 VDC to 12 VDC (same as the side of the positive cable connection to the battery). Because both sides were at equal potential, not current could flow. And because the engine was not running, you did not have an alternator that would have otherwise spiked voltage until it shorted out won't get into the principle of alternator operation here).

So if what happened was as you say, then nothing was damaged by this mis-step. This isn't the cause of your current problem.

That said, have you verified when #1 cylinder is at 0 deg (at TDC), that your distributor rotor is at the position the #1 cylinder spark plug wire should be relative to your distributor cap (and the plug wires are on the proper connections of the distributor cap)?

The offset of the pin involving the connection to the camshaft is not that much - some folks have figured out a way to have the distributor rotor 180 deg out of sync with the cam - the distributor shouldn't seat properly in the head/valve cover, but sometimes/somehow this has happened.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:38 pm

Well when i did timing i was certain the cam was in the correct place, i didn't even think to consider the distributor.

But - even if it was off 180, it would still create spark, no? Just not at the right time.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:39 am

How did you verify that you have no spark?
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:51 am

93celicaconv wrote:How did you verify that you have no spark?


Pull plug wire and plug. Ground it on the cyl head. Friend cranked it over.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Tue Mar 24, 2020 12:04 pm

Do you still have the maroon car 240k mile distributor? May want to check your resistance on plug wire 1 (to make sure it is not open) and try that spark plug on another engine to see if the spark plug can create a spark arc.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:31 pm

I do still have it, and that would be a easy way to troubleshoot.

Haven't been able to work on the car. Covid lock-down keeping me away. What a cock block to my almost running project.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:21 am

Hmm. My Celicas are in the garage, so in lockdown, they are there and I am there now, so why not work on them? Yours must not be in the garage at your home then.

I wouldn't worry about the spark plug wire and spark plug testing - that doesn't explain no spark in any cylinder (but I would verify you don't have any spark in all cylinders rather than basing that perspective by only checking one cylinder - it does make a difference).

You should at least remove the cap and rotor of the distributor not installed, and look for the 2 rotors buried inside of it, and the pickup sensors around it - just to make sure you have a distributor with that intact. You may want to do the same on the distributor installed on your engine. I don't know if they made a later 3S-GTE that had a crank position sensor and did away with the original position sensors in the distributor or not, but if they did, and if that was how the previous engine was set up, using that particular distributor may not have the position sensors in it, which would be problematic for you using the original 1990 ignition setup. Just don't know, but you feel strongly your wiring harness is intact and good, so I'm ignoring the potential of you having a problem with your wiring harness (for now).
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby abeans » Thu Apr 02, 2020 10:46 pm

Nope. This car is not in my garage as mentioned earlier, at my buddys house.

He tried to do the jumper on the diag port. No change.

So, i need to take apart the parts cars engine distributor just for spares + reference.... Might go try to take that stupid trans off the engine to if i get bored.

For some content filler: The last time the parts car ran (looks pretty nice when you don't look underneath.. Had to prime the key 5-6 times to build up enough fuel pressure start. Leaked in the back because rust.)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnbgvEv5gl0

and playing with the headlights on the car when we first got power to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_o3NAZ5bbQ


REALLY hope its something in the distributor, and not me bricking the ECU stupidly. That would be a expensive mistake. But i guess in reality i don't have a ton of money dumped into the project. More so just time.
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Re: abeans st185 - Kill 1 Save Another

Postby 93celicaconv » Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:03 pm

abeans wrote:Nope. This car is not in my garage as mentioned earlier, at my buddys house.

He tried to do the jumper on the diag port. No change. I'm sure this sentence means something to you, but I don't understand what this is trying to say.

So, i need to take apart the parts cars engine distributor just for spares + reference.... Might go try to take that stupid trans off the engine to if i get bored.

For some content filler: The last time the parts car ran (looks pretty nice when you don't look underneath.. Had to prime the key 5-6 times to build up enough fuel pressure start. Leaked in the back because rust.) What do you mean by "prime the key 5-6 times to build up enough fuel pressure"? Do you mean you are activating the starter motor 5-6 times and turning the engine over that many different times? I'm not seeing 5-6 times of anything in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnbgvEv5gl0

and playing with the headlights on the car when we first got power to it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_o3NAZ5bbQ


REALLY hope its something in the distributor, and not me bricking the ECU stupidly. That would be a expensive mistake. But i guess in reality i don't have a ton of money dumped into the project. More so just time.

Some questions in red within your last post.
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