Project Lazarus: From Graveyard to Gen4 Swap ST185

Tippo

Well-known member
underscore":1pp4o09w said:
Nice work!

How do you have two rear tow points? I thought all the 185's only had one. I feel ripped off now.

Thanks! What I do know is that the 1990-1991 and 1992-1993 ST185 differed slightly with how they were set up, so it's very possible that the 1992-1993 has two tow points on both sides where as the 1990-1991 did not. Actually see below with the rear brake size difference on the different years as well!

Anyways, Since the machine is running, here's some pictures of her and then some pictures of the annoying brake replacement. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING was seized on. Luckily with enough torching and PB things start to loosen up. Anyways, 3 out of 4 brakes were done before I ran out of time.

DISCLAIMER: Most of you know this but the 1992-1993 ST185 have larger rotors than the 1990-1992 in the rear. Here is the model number for the right size in the pictures. Also some comparison pictures below.

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That's all for now. The weekend I have some big plans for getting it registered, and the engine compartment back together and replacing the radiator / hoses (praying there's nothing more) since there's a coolant leak. I hope to take her on her first small trip soon!
 

Tippo

Well-known member
If anything I have this thread to look back on haha. Front calipers were too far gone to work properly (cleaned, regreased and rebuilt - still not fully functional!) got some remanned ones and painted em red. Here's after replacement. Also, many praises for a parts car!

Following this, I took her for the first 20 mile spin. She worked OK but still have to replace the transmission cooler lines and power steering lines. Thankfully again from Frank I have a full parts GTS with one in there in good shape <_<

Here's some after pictures and a nice slow highway ride.

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Little dirty from some mild off-roading :)
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Ok so I still need those transmission lines or make them myself. If anybody has them let me know! I really don't want to go the homemade route but I will if need be.

Anyways, the good ish just came in... Once the lines are in, a flush, then in this goes.

- Got the tranny cooler
- Swapped the MT90 for GL-5 75w90
- Tranny cooler placed
 

Alikazam

Member
Good read and good stuff my man! Though I'm going to vote for making your own lines for the transmission lol. I had to do a lot of similar stuff with my fuel tank, though I ended up taking the tank to a radiator repair shop and having them completely blast the inside and coat it with sealer to get it back to good condition. My filler tube is a little rusty but overall not in bad shape. I completely disassembled my sending unit and cleaned up the contacts until it read (with ohm meter) smooth from bottom to top before reinstalling. Not that tough actually. One thing is the Thermistor resistor for the dummy light (low gas light) was shot on mine and I put in a generic one I found on Digi-key. Unfortunately it kept turning the low gas light on all the time lol (except in a very cold morning!). I clipped the wire for now but will need to source a proper resistor eventually (or thermistor sending unit as a whole!). Anyone know the actual specs of the factory thermistor? Keep up the good work!

I'm not a huge fan of Supra pumps, maybe because back in the day they had a bad reputation of overheating and dropping fuel pressure when fuel was low, but hopefully that's not the case anymore. I went with a Walbro 450 in mine, but i'm also running no where near stock levels of stuff haha. So glad I didn't have to replace all my bent lines.
I did run a 1/2" stainless line I bent myself from back to front (went through driver-side wheel well at the end and steering rack hole) for my fuel feed and I can guarantee the original line on mine (1990) was 5/16" diameter (used a compression fitting as old connection at fuel tank was siezed and had to cut it off) since that's now my return line. Mine sat from 2006 until July of last year when I pressure washed all the grime off of it and began working on getting it back running. She's been my daily driver (about 20 miles each way to work) for the past 3 weeks :) She rips too! Good luck with yours again, and keep it up! :)
 

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Tippo

Well-known member
Very nice job!

A small update, picked up the transmission cooler but next time I'm definitely looping it... Here's the aftermath. I swapped out the MT90 for GL-5 75w-90. On an annoying note: I somehow crossthreaded the first two threads one of the 16x1.5 tube connectors :bangshead: but the elbow seems to be fine... If this doesn't work, going to cut it out, flare a new one on and call it a day. Either way, here's the progress:

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Stripped, cleaned and painted the "new" one. Looping next time no doubt.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Why loop it? If you're going to change from stock just get adapters to run AN lines and an aftermarket cooler.
 

Alikazam

Member
underscore":3fkcifkw said:
Why loop it? If you're going to change from stock just get adapters to run AN lines and an aftermarket cooler.

This! You can even do your own bent hard lines. Its not that tough actually :) Even if you put AN fittings in the cooler and did bent AN or adapted AN lines to fit the cooler :) I know not everyone has easy access to a 37 degree flaring tool. :)
 

alltracman78

Active member
What's the matter with the OEM stuff if it's in good condition?

Less chance of problems IMO. :)

I'm so jealous, I haven't driven mine in years, it's just hanging out in the garage.
Good for you guys getting shit done.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
alltracman78":n5aklsoi said:
What's the matter with the OEM stuff if it's in good condition?

Less chance of problems IMO. :)

I'm so jealous, I haven't driven mine in years, it's just hanging out in the garage.
Good for you guys getting shit done.


Exactly hah! You'll get there with enough time, patience and $ :evil:

I was just frustrated (which is why I was half joking but almost not about the loop) but I got everything attached. Got the connector tapped (expensive m16 1.5 tap) then the new lines connected. GL-5 75w-90 pumped into the car with a little help from a slippery pete. She took just around a gallon. Took her for a drive with no leaks... so far :lol: no grinds yet either!

Going to take Lazzie for another drive tonight to the car wash and keep an eye out for any more leaks. Clutch is catching a bit low and I have all new belts that are going in next and going to inspect the hoses. She's doin OK, but it's a long road ahead.

Here's the pics:

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:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: no more leaks please :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
 

Alikazam

Member
Looking good! My clutch pedal has gone to the floor a few times and found after replacing master, slave, and bleeding several times, it's probably a leak at the firewall connection. So ordered adapter fittings and braided line to replace all of the factory lines with a hose. I'll let you know how that goes lol. Sometimes aftermarket is simpler. Total cost for parts: $56... This time.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Alikazam":2le643o9 said:
Looking good! My clutch pedal has gone to the floor a few times and found after replacing master, slave, and bleeding several times, it's probably a leak at the firewall connection. So ordered adapter fittings and braided line to replace all of the factory lines with a hose. I'll let you know how that goes lol. Sometimes aftermarket is simpler. Total cost for parts: $56... This time.

No leaks on the clutch, just sat for 13 years lol - will definitely have to take an overhaul. Definitely let us know how those braided lines work for the clutch! Aftermarket is definitely simpler in a lot of ways, can tell you from experience :cry: :cry: :cry:


In another bit of news, brake lamps stopped working but running lights are working fine. Naturally I checked all fuses first, then tore apart the brake switch, OHMed it out and confirmed it still was in working condition and also confirmed that sheet metal under the dash is really frickin sharp. Regardless, I tried to pull the brake switch off the 1991 parts GT-S and turns out, it's totally different (WTF)? Anyways, I grabbed all the relays off the GT-S and I'm going to be fiddling around with them. For hee-haws I replaced the fuses which did nothing since they tested out fine with a test light. At least I got another goody bag out of the parts car.

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Alikazam

Member
I know this is a silly question but did you check the actual bulbs and plugs? Maybe a ground or common power or something broke.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Alikazam":206e9kz0 said:
I know this is a silly question but did you check the actual bulbs and plugs? Maybe a ground or common power or something broke.

Yup! I actually replaced all the bulbs because why not. Also the plugs were actually in good looking condition. I voltage tested the wires running to the lights - the running lights obviously lit up with voltage but when the brake is depressed, the secondary had 0 voltage. My guess is either a bad ground, a bad fuse terminal or worse - a bad wire lol.

I replaced whatever relay I could with absolutely no success. I bought a new brake switch just in case, I retested the old one using ohms again and this time it was acting funny. Noise only came on incrementally which means probably not a good enough connection...

Also, my ABS isn't working and the light is on. I've read some horror stories on ABS threads and looked what I'm in for, it doesn't look good lol. A bad ABS module will most likely result in me throwing it out of the car haha - but since I'm trying to restore I'm praying that's not the case. It appears the GT-S had ABS so hopefully that wasn't removed as well :doh:
 

underscore

Well-known member
Another silly question, but is the switch height adjusted properly? I had that issue in a car once, the switch was installed and working but depressing the pedal didn't actually reach it.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Tippo":g86gnn21 said:
I tried the switch when it was uninstalled from the car with my finger like a launch button regardless of where I was pressing it, it was doing nothing. I took it out, OHMed it again for a double double check and it still worked :shrug: . Regardless, the new switch is going in tonight or this weekend and will see if that's the problem. I mean at 8 bucks, why not try another switch? Just everyone collectively pray it's the switch! :notworthy:


Oh, it was the switch :D

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Now another thing to note... some thieves tried to break into the passenger door of the car many years ago when it sat in the previous owners yard. They broke the key lock and a whole lot of the door mechanism. My question is this: since I absolutely cannot get the latch to uncork, is there any other way to get a door off the hinge without the jaws of life? Hard to explain, but without the passenger door opening I'm kind of hindered at my restore point!
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Took a few photos of the damage of the door handle and inside the latch and lock mechanism. I can not for the life of me get it open. I'm out of ideas. They completely messed up the whole mechanism. If anybody has any ideas would be helpful!

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underscore

Well-known member
And I thought the people who tried to steal mine were inept. Maybe they're cousins or something. Honestly I'd just grab a whole new door since that one is a bit mangled around the handle area anyways.
 
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