Alikazam's 1990 Alltrac Emma

Well I suppose I should start one of these as I fix and modify things. So far she sat from 2006 until 2021 unmoving under her own power. July of 2020 I pulled her out and pressure washed off the mildew that had formed and put her in the shop to start work. Had to restore the fuel system, install Exhaust Manifold and Turbo kit, remaining chassis cross member bolts, build Exhaust system, restore gauge cluster (Tach Capacitors), install Intercooler (Front Mount) and build plumbing for it, make battery mount for Odyssey PC1200T battery in near factory location (trimmed part of battery tray that extended past frame rail into engine bay for more room to route intercooler piping), repair wiring in cabin for power windows, moonroof, and power door locks. Repair all radio wiring to Alpine amp. Upgrade wiring to Fuel pump to 10gauge dedicated wire (melted EFI fuse once...). Installed Rota Grid 17x8 +35 on all 4 corners with 30mm rear spacers. Got her tagged and legal to drive March 29th and haven't gone a day without using her daily since. 3rd gen engine has drop in 1 at a time head studs (didn't remove head), cams, KO Racing Street Brawler with Precision 5130 turbo. 1200cc injectors, Link G4x ECU inside factory case (Plugs in to factory connectors too). Tuned up on pump gas so far at 327 awhp on 18psi. Has an ACT 6 puck unsprung clutch. Installed an ATOTO A6 double din stereo head unit. LED Headlights.

Still to do presently:
* Fix AC System (doesn't hold charge and when at pressure kicks on/off faster than it should and doesn't blow cold)
* DONE - Power Steering pump change (have new on hand, current one squealing lots, espeically at low rpm)
* Install new Shocks on all 4 corners (have parts to convert rear to rebuildable)
* New brakes on all 4 corners (still riding 15 year old brakes...)
* Connect wiring up for Horn (was on a rocker switch in console and not in steering wheel...?)
* Replace/repair intermittent windshield wipers (have new stalk/cluster to hopefully remedy this)
* Fix/replace some of the sketchy audio components (some line adapters from high level to pre-amp outputs)
* Install CAN bus gauge (remove non-functioning autometer wideband gauge)
* Repair/replace low fuel level sensor thermistor pot (tried a generic thermistor but it turns on all the time regardless of fuel level)
* Fix high beam headlights (think probably switch, just goes dim when you switch to them, new stalk assembly has headlight switch too)
* Fix rear window washer line/plumbing. Doesn't squirt over rear, probably a clog near resevoir, just need to get to it sometime.
* DONE Replace Clutch Line with braided steel line and adapters (On hand, present fitting at firewall leaks from corrosion)
* Reinforce/replace rear diff mount (has 1 sheared off bolt presently as well)

That covers most of it I think. I'll try to post any fixes I do here from now on! Thanks!

Cleaned up some wiring for the Fuel Pump, Amplifier, ECU direct power (to get proper voltage that the engine sees, was only seeing 12V through harness vs. 13-14V at battery), and Bypass relay for starter (NC = standard ignition switch start, NO = wire to starter to allow "start button" to actiavte starter as my ignition switch doesn't always work, which is common I hear). 100A ATL Fuse with 4 gauge wires from Battery to fuse block (8 position). 4 in use, 2 30amp extra fuses in last 2 slots just to hold them.

What fuse block is that? Looks nice.
good to see another alltrac back on the road!

grip-addict":2y9xyecl said:

What fuse block is that? Looks nice.
good to see another alltrac back on the road!

Click to expand...

Blue sea systems marine fuse block from Amazon.

Car looks great. Curious about what you have for fuel setup. You run all new lines from tank to the regulator up front? or adapter someplace? What rail you recommend?

abeans":3mkuch0z said:

Car looks great. Curious about what you have for fuel setup. You run all new lines from tank to the regulator up front? or adapter someplace? What rail you recommend?

Click to expand...

Restored the Facotry Tank (was very rusty inside), then in Tank Walbro 450 fuel pump. Modified stock hanger for 3/8" to 1/2" feed port with cheated and tig welded 90 degree for tight tolerance to -8 AN fitting. Also modified return for 3/8" with cheated tig welded 90 degree fitting and -6 AN fitting. Ran new 1/2" stainless steel feed line using a couple "Swagelok style" unions to couple the pieces of line together and ran up under and inside front swaybar through steering hole to flared end that fuel filter spins onto. -6 AN feed from fuel filter to Racer X fuel rail, out fuel rail with -6 AN to Flex Fuel sensor, then -6 AN to Aeromotive FPR and -6 AN return to factory feed fuel line with fitting adapter. Rear fitting on car for original feed line was messed up so I cut it off and used a compression fitting for 5/16" line (factory line OD) to a -6 AN fitting. Then some lines between bent hard lines and Tank. See pictures in next posts:

More Pictures of Fuel System

More Pictures of Fuel System

More Pictures of Fuel System

Very nice work. Thanks for the details.

So got around to installing the Clutch Line I cobbled together (Though I was pointed out on the Facebook page that a Honda kit will actually work and are very reasonable in price).

Here's what I used:

2 x M10x1.0 to 3AN Fitting - Adapter For Brake Clutch Fuel and Oil - AN3 - $7.99 ea = $15.98
1 x Earl's 966303 Steel 90-Degree -3AN Swivel Female to -3AN Male Adapter - $7.55
1 x Goodridge 48" -3AN Str. x -3AN 90 Deg Brake Line - 390348 - $22

Basically, I had a leak at the firewall where the hose and hardline met and reaching it being difficulty (was disconnected and sat for 15 years, all rusty and hard to thread together). After trying several times with different wrenches and methods to get it to seal, it would still slowly seep out fluid and eventually get my level low enough to make my pedal go to the floor (low limit on master reservoir). So instead of trying to source new hard line, etc., I figured I'd adapt to a braided line directly from the master to the slave. It went in easier than I thought and I just removed the hard line from the slave to the flex line connection on the transmission and left the rest in place. The hard line by the master just pushed out of the way.

Installed adapter fittings into Master and then put the 90 degree fitting end of the hose in at that side. Routed hose under brake booster and along under wiring harness and across top of transmission and under starter. Used 1 cushion clamp on mount point directly below starter than to the Clutch slave. On the slave, once I had all the hard line off I removed it from the car and installed the adapter fitting and 90 degree adapter there pointed directly back along the body (very slightly angled to front of car to clear transmission body). I tighted up all the fittings in a vice then finger tight installed hose, then reinstalled Slave on car. Tightened straight end of hose to the clutch slave once bolted in place. Was able to put the excess slack in a slight service loop to keep it away from the starter. Pictures below. Let me know if you have any questions but I'm happy with it! When/If my engine ever comes out I'll remove the old original hard lines and flex hose.

More pictures of Clutch Line replacement / upgrade.

Power steering is fixed. Went to swap pump and noticed belt really loose. Pivot bolt was missing... Inherited problems I didn't double check or tighten when putting car back together I'm sure but installing the bolt and tightening belt and operates smooth at idle, lock to lock. Gotta love easy fixes!

Right when you fix one thing something else goes lol. My engine fan stopped working. Chased it down to the relay itself doesn't engage the power side, even though it clicks when operated. If I use a jumper wire instead of the relay in the power side of the fuse block the fan turns on. Probably too much continuous current with the spal 11" fan for the factory relay (factory relay has 15A marking, rated to 22A) and wiring (spal says it should have it's own 30A fuse). Will install another relay and isolate the fan to a separate power source. Jumper wire to get me home for now though!