RORERI: A JDM 1992 ST185H-BLMVZ

Roreri

Active member
Thanks Tippo! I’ll get one.

REPAIRS BEGIN

So, if you have a rare bird don’t let it get messed up.

Estimates 15 November 2021

The repair shops are being weak and unenthusiastic. To be fair the litigious nature of society has made them unadventurous and conservative. And also understandable it’s harder work than they want to undertake—limited profit potential.

One of the shops tried to sell me on the idea of the hood being a structural piece citing the under hood cross bracing as “crumple zones” that were bent, thus the whole hood was a total loss. Let’s be perfectly clear, a JDM GT-Four is in no way compliant with NTSB crash safety standards from the get go. So, I find that whole line of thinking spurious. The other shop was dismissive to the point of hey if you get all the parts we’ll do the work, then failed to even take notes for a labor estimate.

I’m like to take hammer and effing tongs and bondo to that hood myself and then take it to be painted.

I will however avail myself of one shop’s assertion that they can put the heat guns on the deformed bumper and get it right. Or...I can try it myself.

I got a payout from insurance that was not a total but it would have been better not to have even made a claim, as I can cover the costs. Oh, well, live and learn. So, I have a budget.

I’m going to avoid paying anyone to do anything I can do myself. If they’re going to throw their hands up and be like “Oh the parts aren’t in my standard supply chain you have to get them,” then why not turn the screws and bolts myself?

Here’s my situation: I put in for two weeks leave from 29 November thru 12 December. I have some time. The bumper reinforcing bar is nearly here from Poland.

I’ll pull the bumper and send it in for heat reformation. I’ll do the bondo/sand/spray myself. Or, I’ll have someone with a paint booth do the spraying and reinstall it myself. Virtues of having a pickemup truck.

I’ll pull the creased reinforcing bar and install the new part.

I’ll pull the hood and clear some workspace in the garage and get a bending frame built up that I can work clamps on. I’ll force the bend back to the original arc, then get some body work tools and drill some holes in the creased and deformed front edge of the hood. I’ll work to get that shaping right. Might see about whether it’s better to have a skilled person do that. Then, bondo and sand and spray and install the front trim edge—salvaged from Pick a Part or aftermarket solution. Once it’s all set up, I’ll get it painted. It’ll look ugly AF for a while then it will look fine.

I’ll pull the deck shield from of the radiator and start disassembling the bent structural members front of the radiator, assessing what can be hammered back into shape, and what might be able to be fabbed. I have skilled friends in this regards. And then, what can be sourced.

I’ll consider whether to just get an OEM Transmission Oil Cooler (on the border of egregiously expensive at $350 new, $200 used), an aftermarket transmission oil cooler (a Mishimoto will likely be $200 after sourcing adapters and then time), or deleting the transmission oil cooler (also a completely legit option given that I’m not thrashing the transmission WRC style).

Repairs Begin 16 November 2021

I took the bumper off. It was fairly simple, a matter of several 10mm hex head bolts that I put into a baggie. The front running lights just turned counterclockwise and came out, freeing the plastic bumper. It is a Toyota part, not an aftermarket imitation. The carbon fiber look plastic bar that runs across the top of all that from fender to fender was of course a total loss--that went into the trash but I kept the screws that held it on.

Then I detached the metal strip running from fender to fender across the top of it. Curse the designer who decided four plastic screws that absolutely will strip out was a good way to attach that to the bumper. Curse him to the hell where people are skinned alive. I drilled them out. This one might be able to be recovered and reused.

Then I unscrewed the plastic deck sheet at the front of the radiator--it's not torn, merely deformed. I deem that it will reshape well with heat. It was still attached by one pin at the corner, so I just swung it out of the way to see what else is going on.

I detached the upper front fender bar running across the front of the car from fender to fender. That one is pretty beat up. Even then, I don't see why I couldn't have it repaired with a patch of some sort and straightened out.

Bumper Parts.JPG
All of this stuff out, I hopped in the car, and tested the lights--in my discomboobulation right after the accident, I'd turned then lights on, then when I turned them off, they couldn't close all the way. Thankfully, the motors did not break themselves on the top of the bumper trying to put the headlights down.

I started working on getting that front reinforcement bar off, and I got the bottom 17mm bolt off, but the top is another matter, as you can see. I wonder how that's supposed to work...

Stopped Work 16 Nov 2021.JPG
Tomorrow is another day. Slowly but surely.
 

Roreri

Active member
BUMPER REFORMING 1 DEC 2021

So, over the past couple of weeks I haven't got any takers to repair the Lorelei. I tire of taking it to shops to have them not get back to me afterward. As I said, if you have a rare bird, don't let it get bent.

I decided to take matters into my own hands. I'd start with the bumper.

Bumper Before 1 Dec 2021.JPG
I went and picked up a Wagner Heat Gun and made a forming tool from a peice of wood that I beveled the edges of ans zip tied a rag around the end of to form a cushion.

Forming Tools 1 Dec 2021.JPG
I heated up the plastic of the bumper with the gun set at 450 degrees, then 500, then 600 degrees, and so on up to 700 degrees. It being a cool day outside where I was working I'm sure that the heat reaching the bumper wasn't so great, and I kept my hand on the opposite side to ensure the bumper plastic wasn't getting too hot.

I set the bumper on a set of pieces of wood that allowed me to push the deformed section back out. I then used my forming tool with the bumper set above a couple of pieces of wood so there was a depression beneath it, and slowly pushed the bumper back into shape.

Bumper After 1 Dec 2021.JPG
Not bad. I suppose I can skim coat some Bondo on that, take a sanding block to it, and then brush on some Toyota 202 Black, for a "good enough" job until I decide down the road on a more thorough overall paint correction.

Next, are the bent interior structural members. Finding parts continues to be difficult, but it will work itself out.
 

grip-addict

Active member
That looks a whole lot better than it did before.
I bet if you took the bumper off the car and brought it into a shop, you'd find someone that'll bondo/repaint it. Most shops around here don't want to take on major projects because it always runs over the amount they quote, but it's a lot less scary for them if it's one/two body parts that's already off the car.

For some of the metal bits, it'll probably just mean light taps with a hammer, compression in a vice, whatever. It looks like you're already well on your way with the removables, so i'm sure you'll be able to keep making progress. Is the radiator support or anything there bent? I helped a friend fix something similar before, we ended up parking next to an in-ground concrete pole and used a ratchet strap to pull the crush back out. It didn't look "mint" but it wasn't super noticeable, either. Of course, that all depends on the bends, crush, etc.

The hood's going to be the hardest part. You might unfortunately be stuck buying a replacement hood. They are available from carbon microsystem, but shipping is expensive right now (thanks, covid :\).

you're on the up and up. keep up the good work!
 

underscore

Well-known member
If the CF piece isn't totally gone yet, snag the yellow and white plastic washers and the black rubber supports off the underside of it, just in case a replacement doesn't have them. I briefly misplaced the washers for mine and I was unable to find them in a parts fiche to attempt to order replacements.
 

Roreri

Active member
REINFORCEMENT BAR INSTALL AND METAL FORMING 4 DEC 2021

The weather was pleasantly warm and the feeling was optimistic, so I set out to do a bit more work on The Lorelei.

About the internal, hidden from view structural members--I came to an epiphany, which is this: I don't care. Take your most elegant supermodel, someone you admire without restraint. Now, flay her face open so you can see the underlying bone structure beneath and behind that beauty. Not so good.

And so it is with The Lorelei. As long as she looks good and rides good, I am willing to overlook what's beneath the surface as long as it does its job. Underneath, she won't be pretty. I'll know, you'll know, and at some future time when time and resources are better, perhaps I'll do it perfect. Probably at some point when I want to do a radiator upgrade or even farther down the line when it's time for an engine replacement. This will do for now.

I heated up the front of the hood, and started banging it into some semblance of its original shape with a rubber mallet, getting it considerably better looking.

I installed the replacement reinforcement bar I got from GT4 Performance. I noted ruefully that though they have listed the radiator grill (the long plastic bit between the bumper and hood), it is out of stock. I'd have gladly paid them for one when I ordered the reinforcement bar.

Then I heated up the structural member in front of the radiator, which was pushed back just a bit--perhaps half an inch, and I banged it forward somewhat, so that metal radiator retaining clips which I also heat formed would do their job of keeping the radiator still.

Reinforcement Bar Attached 4 Dec 2021.JPG
I applied the heat gun to the plastic deck shield that covers the hood latch, then laid it down--in the end *this* is what people will see.

Deck Shield 4 Dec 2021.JPG
Then I heated up the bit of metal that runs along the top of the Carlos Sainz Edition bumper. I beat it back into shape, twisting it as well. I did the same to the structural member that the plastic grill and the plastic shield attaches to.

Roreri Front End 4 Dec 2021.JPG
This was about as much as I had gas for today, but it felt good to take action. I could probably get that hood looked at by a body shop as an isolated item, if I took it off. Will I get a carbon fiber hood? Probably, yeah, I'll bite that bullet, and I have an inquiry out with Carbon Microsystems in Latvia. But until and if those items come at least it will be functionally repaired and driveable.

Thanks for the support and encouragement. Onward!
 

Roreri

Active member
CONTINUED REPAIR AND RE-ASSEMBLY 6 DEC 2021

I got after it today hammer and tongs, heating metal, bending metal, applying ratchet straps to trees, and re-assembling.

Roreri Hood Up 6 Dec 2021.JPG
I still have some work to do on the hood, and I need some clips to secure that plastic shield over the hood latch, but The Lorelei is driveable, again.

Roreri Hood Down 6 Dec 2021.JPG

I got a reply back from Carbon Microsystems satisfying my inquiry, and I placed an order with them:

Carbon Microsystems Order.JPG
So, that's good. Parts are on their way, and I'll soon have an OEM hood that I can have repaired and on hand as a spare or as something for someone else needful of a hood to buy and set right if they want a project. It's within the realm of anyone who has any body work experience and I was debating giving it a try myself with heat gun, blowtorch, hammers and Bondo myself.

Something else: The hood release isn't working right. There's a plastic part at the end of the cable, which I believe seats the cable to the latch assembly. This part is broken and as a result when the hood release is pulled from the driver's seat it doesn't pop the hood up. It works, but it's a two person job. I figure I can:

1. Deal with it.
2. Get a new hood release cable.
3. Install bonnet pins on the carbon fiber hood, which based on my initial research looks like it's the preferred solution.
 

Roreri

Active member
It is not an RC. The previous owner installed some RC components--the hood, bumper reinforcing bar, and bumper.

GEARBOX OIL REFILL TRAVAILS

And eff me with a chainsaw. I started my day wanting to top off the transmission fluid. The plug proved tough, so I gave it a shot of PB Blaster, then after waiting a goodly while I took a 24mm socket to it. The socket promptly slipped off the plug while I was applying torque to it, and I ended up with this:

Punctured Coolant Overflow Reservoir.JPG

So, I'll be repairing that coolant overflow reservoir, shortly.

So, I had to fill the transmission from the top. I wanted to drain it and put 5.2 liters in per spec. Unfortunately, the drain plug was similarly stubborn and chewed up such that I was unable to get purchase on it. So, I was forced to guess most of it had drained out through the damaged oil cooler on the very short drive back after the accident. After all, when I took off the oil cooler and installed the MR2 transmission oil loop very little came out, though the front was up on ramps. I gave it most of five quarts, minus the bit I spilled misapplying it.
 

underscore

Well-known member
That's some damn impressive work. Now it just looks like it had a minor bump compared to before. I believe you're right and that hood pins are required for a carbon hood, something about the hood needing the load spread across more than one point?
 

Roreri

Active member
Thanks Underscore, it means a lot. I felt like such a doofus for forgetting the parking brake--clearly I was way over taxed in my head. Then, after seeing how unenthusiastic the shops I talked to were, I realized that I can and should do everything I can myself. Once I set my mind to it, I was pleasantly surprised by how the heat gun and pressure worked to reshape that bumper. It would have been costly to replace it.

The way the structural work came out is...okay. As far as looking at it, it looks right. However: The hood is not laying right, probably because it is bent in a way that I cannot well understand. It is about right in terms of where it lays across the front edge with the headlights, but it sits proud just behind the headlights. This worries me for the installation of the carbon fiber hood, but in all likelihood I'm looking at a center hood catch delete unless it comes with a center rail that can mate with it.

The wife was duly impressed as well which was nice as I will not have the wifely scorn. I was involved before, and I guess I'm damn involved now, like most owners of these.

As for bonnet pins, I like the look of these AeroCatch products--here's the one I'm looking at:

Aerocatch 120-2000 Above Panel $76.81.JPG
abeans, I think I'll just patch the existing coolant overflow jug--it's not a big hole. Thanks for the offer, though! I've got some Gorilla tape securing it for now and I'll schmutz some epoxy in there and sand it flush when I can get around to it later this week in all likelihood.

Another bothersome aspect of the work to get the gear oil added was the fact that both of the lower plugs present as not budging and stripped. I'm probably over spec on gear oil, though I imagine that's not a problem. I'm going to have to put some thought into how I want to approach the plugs. Probably what I'll need to do is I'll get two new plugs, and I'll start with penetrating oil and vise grips and if I have to get ugly I'll drill and tap those plugs and take an impact wrench to them and get them out. I'm open to suggestions.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
Roreri":7w6ea59h said:
Thanks Underscore, it means a lot. I felt like such a doofus for forgetting the parking brake--clearly I was way over taxed in my head. Then, after seeing how unenthusiastic the shops I talked to were, I realized that I can and should do everything I can myself. Once I set my mind to it, I was pleasantly surprised by how the heat gun and pressure worked to reshape that bumper. It would have been costly to replace it.

The way the structural work came out is...okay. As far as looking at it, it looks right. However: The hood is not laying right, probably because it is bent in a way that I cannot well understand. It is about right in terms of where it lays across the front edge with the headlights, but it sits proud just behind the headlights. This worries me for the installation of the carbon fiber hood, but in all likelihood I'm looking at a center hood catch delete unless it comes with a center rail that can mate with it.

The wife was duly impressed as well which was nice as I will not have the wifely scorn. I was involved before, and I guess I'm damn involved now, like most owners of these.

As for bonnet pins, I like the look of these AeroCatch products--here's the one I'm looking at:


abeans, I think I'll just patch the existing coolant overflow jug--it's not a big hole. Thanks for the offer, though! I've got some Gorilla tape securing it for now and I'll schmutz some epoxy in there and sand it flush when I can get around to it later this week in all likelihood.

Another bothersome aspect of the work to get the gear oil added was the fact that both of the lower plugs present as not budging and stripped. I'm probably over spec on gear oil, though I imagine that's not a problem. I'm going to have to put some thought into how I want to approach the plugs. Probably what I'll need to do is I'll get two new plugs, and I'll start with penetrating oil and vise grips and if I have to get ugly I'll drill and tap those plugs and take an impact wrench to them and get them out. I'm open to suggestions.

Heat, swear jar and some hammered on sockets. This happened to me as well, took some "motivation" but they went finally. Via con dio.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Definitely get new plugs first, then I'd get some bolt extractors to hammer on and get the old ones out. Alternatively you could pound on some undersized sockets, 15/16" is 23.8mm, or weld a nut onto the plug if they're steel (make sure you let it cool before trying to undo it).
 

Roreri

Active member
ADDITIONAL DETAILS ON THE CARBON MICROSYSTEMS HOOD AND MORE PARTS

So, shipping from Latvia for the hood is going to be costly--an additional 150 to 250 Euro over and above the 200 Euro listed on the website to get it to the nearest airport, where I will hopefully be able to pick it up.

That said, looking at pictures and details at the Carbon Microsystems website, it will be a simple install--it comes with attachment points and stainless steel hardware so it should be a direct replacement. It weighs 6kg, so while it is a third or perhaps a quarter the weight of the steel OEM part, it can be secured by the center latch point. It may be that the AeroCatch bonnet pins are not necessary, but if so, I'll want to address the hood latch not working from the driver's position lever.

I have rigged up a zip tie around the hood release cable so I can open the hood by reaching up underneath the bumper until I figure out that situation or just do a center hood latch delete and go with the AeroCatch bonnet pins.

It will look outstanding:

Carbon Fiber Hood.JPG
I went ahead and ordered a replacement gearbox oil cooler. Shipping was obscene--thanks COVID.

Gearbox Oil Cooler.JPG
So far with all of the parts and the couple hundred bucks of various tools I've picked up, I am only about a hundred dollars over the insurance payout, so...not bad?

There is an additional part that I need to source. This black plastic sheet is Toyota 53292-20080, Seal, Radiator Support, Upper:

Seal, Radiator Support, Upper Toyota 53292-20080.JPG
This was bent a bit, but it looks fine now that I've put some heat to it. However, I need seven clip pins--Toyota 90467-07107--so I ordered them from Toyota of Greensburg, Pennsylvania, for $13 shipping included. These will allow me to attach the plastic seal sheet to the structural members underneath. I can also use it as a bit of a guide template for where everything is supposed to be--some of the holes don't quite line up yet.
 

Domspun

Member
Wow, what a read! Reminds me a bit of my own, except it happened over the span of 12 years. Surprises, accidents, tuning adventures, that's the GT-Four life!
 

underscore

Well-known member
Ending up with bunch of new tools and an upgraded hood for only an extra hundred bucks sounds like you nailed it. I'm jealous of the carbon hood, I know I wouldn't be able to tell the difference when driving but the stock RC hood is so heavy it's crazy.
 

Roreri

Active member
Domspun, glad you enjoyed the story so far! I have really been enjoying this though the past five weeks were an unexpected and initially really unwelcome side trip. I agree with the general sentiment--having a GT-Four/AllTrac is advanced auto ownership for sure.

Underscore, the hood isn't in hand yet! Though I have faith. Build time is 8-12 weeks, which will keep Roreri off the winter roads which is a good thing in any case. They do use brine in Northern Virginia.

And then, when the hood arrives to whichever airport Carbon MicroSystems ships it to, I'll have to pay customs duties which I expect will be a couple hundred dollars.

That carbon fiber hood weighing 6kg (13 lbs) is probably around a 20 lb weight savings. I was reading up on some CF hoods and some folks were saying theirs were about 10.5 lbs. Perhaps the Carbon MicroSystems article is somewhat more layers of fiber, which I am down for.

I guess in retrospect I could have went with a ViS CF hood:

https://visracing.com/i-30499015-carbon ... 90-93.html

But I'm committed now, and I have read that Carbon MicroSystems is really good stuff, so I'm hoping for a flawless replacement.

Here's my collection of tools I picked up:

Tools.JPG
So, no, not bad at all!
 

Roreri

Active member
I have a problem. Whenever I take a drive, when I get back, there's gear oil all over the undercarriage. It will drip off the undercarriage for a while, then stop.

It's leaking from someplace, and then it's running down the transmission and dripping off in a variety of places.

I filled the gearbox with gear oil through the vent plug on top of it, because I couldn't get the side plug off. I think I put too much in, and it's venting out the top.
 
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