RORERI: A JDM 1992 ST185H-BLMVZ

alltracman78

Active member
You should be able to find an adapter(s) that will move the placement of the line. Whether it's between the rail and the regulator or after the regulator.
You can even run a line from the fuel rail and attach the regulator somewhere else.

I totally understand how much it sucks to wait longer to finish something, but patience is the key to good work. :)
 

Roreri

Active member
I agree. It will work I think.

I clamped the fuel pressure regulator adapter to my bench and took a wrench to the fitting, screwing the -8AN ORB side tighter into the adapter. This had the effect of changing the geometry of the arrangement such that the return lines point in the correct direction to clear all obstacles and mate to the return line fitting.

I need to tighten the -8AN ORB side of the M12 to -8AN ORB fitting a bit more. I jumped FP and B+ and turned the key to the ON position to dry test it. Fuel seeped from the -8AN ORB side. Much much less than before. I feel that I am getting close to locking it down. Even with the seeping, the fuel system held steady at 3 Bar pressure (44psi) which is 5 to 6 psi more than the old OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator maintained.

I just need to make sure it’s dead tight and not leaking at all. So far it’s been like

“Is that tight enough?” “Nope.”

“How about now?” “Still nope.”
 

alltracman78

Active member
Something seems off.
Most AN fittings are aluminum and shouldn't require that much tightening torque. Technically you're supposed to use short aluminum wrenches on them so you don't overtorque (I don't; just saying). Are you sure the threads are correct and nothing is cross threaded?

Also, for future reference, a swivel type adapter or fitting is best in a tight space like that. So you're not locked into a certain position (without over tightening).
 

Roreri

Active member
The main issue was that there was no leverage to get the -8AN ORB threads tight up into the receiver at the bottom of the fuel pressure adapter. I got a vise, put the fuel pressure adapter in it (with wood so as not to mar it), wrenched it off, applied Gasoila E Seal to the threads, and then clinched it on to full seat. It all went together though the fuel return was pointed forward--I got a fuel hose and ran it from there to the existing fuel return line and used a barbed union to join them. I tested the system under battery with FP and B+ jumped and the ignition to ON. The fuel system held pressure at 64psi, no leaks!

Fuel System Secure 1 OCT 2022.JPG
I'll inspect it thoroughly for leaks over the next couple of days, both just with the fuel pump powered and at idle. Then, I'll get a check ride in. I'm hopeful!

EDIT: 14 hours later fuel pressure is still at 20psi. So, I deem the system is doing pretty well holding pressure. It's definitely more locked down than it was before I changed out the fuel system components I've changed out--ordinarily it would drop to 0psi within a couple of hours.
 

Roreri

Active member
No snow yet, though there was an evening where it might have been possible. Any day now, I bet.

I got it all back together, and I can't win for losing.

Fuel Pressure Good but Vacuum Bad 2 6 OCT 2022.JPG
The fuel pressure is nice and strong, and no leaks, but I'm only getting 25cm Hg (9.8 inches Hg) vacuum. I'm used to seeing 45cm Hg at this altitude, and 55cm Hg at sea level. Given that I have a vacuum leak, no wonder the mix is lean. Much more air getting in than normal.

I sprayed some throttle cleaner about the motor and tracked it down to the back of the intercooler. I've had the throttle body off and on so many times I just think maybe this guy (the large hose) has come loose and doesn't seal well.

Possible Vacuum Hose 6 OCT 2022.JPG
It didn't have a hose clamp, but I figure I could get two hose clamps and make sure it's sealed well on both sides and try again.

Are there any other candidates that could be causing the problem?
 

Roreri

Active member
I take it that those guys being loose can affect vacuum negatively as well? I'll check those as well.
 

underscore

Well-known member
yeah they can let a lot of air through if one or both isn't hooked up. the sound it made when my car had them off and we connected the compressed air for a boost leak test was pretty impressive lol.
 

grip-addict

Active member
Ahh the old vac/boost leak hunt. Pretty unfun to chase down in any car. I got so tired of it that I bought one of these https://a.co/d/6zS7jAs (your size may be different) and just spray soapy water everywhere.

That big hose goes to the idle bypass valve and the hose doesn't need a clamp since it shouldn't see positive pressure. There are some ports on the back of the plenum that can leak from time to time too.

I capped those vac lines that go to the power steering pump to no ill effect. Has anyone else done that ?
 

Roreri

Active member
Good news: I tracked it down. Bad news: It's the #4 injector port. I must have not seated the isolator gasket properly somehow, or something. Everything's coming apart, for the Nth time...

Fuel Rail 7 OCT 2022.JPG
Jesus wept. I don't know how I did this, but, somehow, the fuel rail isolator for the #4 injector is just plain missing, as in vamoosed--possibly having dropped off the bottom of the fuel rail into the engine compartment (but not through...oh no...never through when you really need it) when I was installing the fuel rail last time.

The fuel rail isolator for the #3 injector is split, as though it didn't mate properly with the receiver orifice, and was crushed when I tightened the fuel rail down. Between the missing fuel rail isolator and the damaged one that sure explains the vacuum leak.

Split Isolator Gasket.JPG
PrimeMR2 has the isolators, and they are on their way.

Further, there are only two of three plastic washers that fit into the orifices that lead to where the bolts that secure the fuel rail down onto the engine block (those little plastic bits below the fuel rail). The left and middle ones (as you look at the motor) were worse for wear. The right one was just plain gone. A diagram posted on the PrimeMR2 isolators listing shows me what part number I need: 23807V.

Fuel Rail Diagram with Part Numbers.JPG
Now whether I can GET some of these is another matter entirely...I don't even know if I absolutely need these washers--they seem to really only serve the purpose of aligning the main fuel rail bolts such that they are pointed directly into the threaded hole for ease of assembly. I did note on assembly last time that getting the bolt started on that right side without that spacer was difficult. Another problem is that the diagram depiction of 23870V does not look like what I have. Maybe just some variation in how it had to be drawn. I went ahead and ordered three anyway from a nearby Toyota dealership.
 

Roreri

Active member
I’m in contact with Nick at NixSpeed Racing, to see about dropping it off for him to look at. I can’t figure it out, and there’s things going on right now that call my attention so I don’t have the time or energy to do it myself. It’s time to call in a professional.
 

grip-addict

Active member
Sometimes, you just have to know when. These cars are hard to keep running and there's no shame in calling in reinforcements. I've certainly sent my car to shops when I ran out of time, or patience, or both. I hope Nick gets you up and running quickly.
 

Roreri

Active member
Things have overcome me, but I am continuing to press. I had a family tragedy and then, in the aftermath of that, distracted, I screwed up a jump and ended up with my Shorai battery catching fire and damaging the aft end of the relay box and wiring harness nearest the battery.

I have three options to consider:

1. TCS Motorsports offers a Gen4/5 3S-GTE Swap for $6399--might be more for doing this into a Celica. Includes:
  • Gen4 engine/wiring/ECU
  • Wiring harness conversion with functional OBDII port in trunk
  • TCS 3" Downpipe
  • TCS 3" Air intake kit
  • TCS Gen4 fuel line kit
  • TCS Gen4 water neck
  • TCS Gen4 Intercooler Kit with one piece intercooler piping/t-bolt clamps/silicone couplers
  • Powder coated valve cover (color of your choice)
  • New valve cover gaskets
  • New PCV Valve
  • New PCV grommet
  • New Exedy OEM Spec Clutch Kit
  • New throw out bearing
  • Resurfaced Flywheel
  • Conventional Oil change components (oil/filter)
  • Redline Transmission fluid
  • Coolant flush and Coolant
  • Engine bay cleaning and crossmember cleaning
  • Choice of either no BOV or OEM bov (other flanges can be welded on for additional cost)
I would look to add these options: $540 Turbosmart Eboost Electronic Boost Controller, $225 Walbro Fuel Pump, $575 Seal Package (Timing belt, water pump, cam seals, oil pump o ring, front and rear main seals, thermostat and gasket, CV axle seals), $1500 Custom FMIC.


ATS Racing offers a "Premium" Gen4/5 Swap for $7500--might be more for doing this into a Celica. Includes:
  • JDM 3S-GTE Caldina Engine
  • NEW valve cover gasket, front oil seals, and timing belt
  • Walbro Fuel Pump
  • TCS Downpipe
  • ECU and all necessary sensors
  • Modify Wiring harness
  • JDM CT15 Turbocharger
  • ATS Side Mount Intercooler and Custom Pipes with BOV delete
  • Motoria Dual 3" exhaust
  • intake with filter
  • Manual Boost Controller
  • Dyno Test
Additional Options unknown but electronic boost controller seems necessary and FMIC seems like a good idea.


3. I could see whether Nick at Nixspeed Racing can get my old Gen 2 back in fine trim. As it has only 50,000 miles on it, I figure the bones are good, it just needs the work and attention put into it.

Would love to hear the community's thoughts on these options, or others that I haven't listed.
 

Tippo

Well-known member
wow... that's a lot to digest. sorry to hear about all the troubles. personally, i would see if the gen2 can be fixed if it's got such low miles. the swap takes a ton of time, energy and money. if somebody can fix the harness (check wiregap, Doug may be able to help) and some parts that might be where to start.
Any pictures of the relay box melting or any other parts that are needed? one of us may have a spare hanging around
 

Roreri

Active member
wow... that's a lot to digest. sorry to hear about all the troubles. personally, i would see if the gen2 can be fixed if it's got such low miles. the swap takes a ton of time, energy and money. if somebody can fix the harness (check wiregap, Doug may be able to help) and some parts that might be where to start.
Any pictures of the relay box melting or any other parts that are needed? one of us may have a spare hanging around
I’d like either to replace the motor or to get this one in good shape. It’s defeated me this far however. Not that I an a talented engine tech. If a local mechanic can help then that’s great. Nothing back so far from anyone.

My first thought was perhaps just the relays are damaged and replacing them might put the situation back how it was before the battery fire. Then other repairs or measures could be taken.

Here’s a photo of the damaged relay box
 

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Gert

Active member
I do feel sorry for your troubles.

Then the fire. This lookes like repairable. First I thought the whole relay box was gone.
 
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