A/C Retrofit and O-rings and sensor

Write ups and tutorials for maintenance and modifications.

Re: A/C Retrofit and O-rings and sensor

Postby 93celicaconv » Sun May 29, 2022 10:00 am

Sounds like you are ready for vacuum downing the system, then the refrigerant charge. Good job!
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Re: A/C Retrofit and O-rings and sensor

Postby Menoxz » Sun May 29, 2022 11:30 am

Already done it. Flushed Most of the mineral oil from the system. Added POE. Drew vacuum and the r134a. Blows cold air. Will see how good it is when the real heat comes.
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Re: A/C Retrofit and O-rings and sensor

Postby Roreri » Sun May 29, 2022 4:28 pm

Good, good!

Did you just use plain r134a?

I was looking at the self-help A/C charge offerings at the local parts store yesterday. One of them, the can made a claim that it could seal most leaks. Given that I have a small leak at the compressor--so small that a charge can last for months--I admit I was tempted to get it but I also know that these kits can (will) gum up the works and clog pipes.

I will be replacing a compressor and receiver dryer later this year, so I'll be doing this journey myself. I definitely want to learn more about what's involved with flushing and filling and charging.
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Re: A/C Retrofit and O-rings and sensor

Postby Menoxz » Sun May 29, 2022 5:20 pm

Roreri wrote:Good, good!

Did you just use plain r134a?

I was looking at the self-help A/C charge offerings at the local parts store yesterday. One of them, the can made a claim that it could seal most leaks. Given that I have a small leak at the compressor--so small that a charge can last for months--I admit I was tempted to get it but I also know that these kits can (will) gum up the works and clog pipes.

I will be replacing a compressor and receiver dryer later this year, so I'll be doing this journey myself. I definitely want to learn more about what's involved with flushing and filling and charging.

Yup, plain r134a 700 grams.
Most leak seals are temporary fixes with issues down the line, it makes the o-ring swell. I don't remember what the cons of it are,I suspect it affects the o-rings in a bad way and all the parts in the A/C System.

In the US afaik, there seems to be ready kits for flushing the A/C system with compressed air and a special solvent, that or let someone with a flushing machine flush the system. I heard someone nearby me had such machine, but I decided to do it myself anyways. I like fixing things myself so I know what has been done, and if it fails, I know why it failed.

I used denatured alcohol and some silicone tubing to flush most of the oil out of the system, since it evaporates and doesn't leave residue. Supposedly pure mineral spirits/low odor? should work "better?". Aceton is the best apart from real A/C solvent, however it attacks everything and as you know, is aggressive against everything, so there is a risk of ruining o-rings.

However when It came to the compressor I simply took it out of the car and turned the wheel to get most of the oil out. As the sight glass is cloudy, which shows I didn't get all the old mineral oils out, could have done a better job. I used this formula for oil amount and used using vacuum to draw it into the system, should had added it before installing the compressor Adam!

45 ml for condenser
45 ml for Evaporator
15 ml for each hose line flushed
15 ml for receiver/dryer
121ml for compressor

Toyota specify to use ND8 oil which is pag46. I opted to use POE since it's "retrofit" oil, supposedly PAG oil is more aggressive on simple nitrile o-rings rather than on HNBR rings, allthough the difference between O-rings was only the temperature rating in the end? I don't know which material toyota uses for the brown/red O-rings, I make the assumption it's nitril. Other materials might not fare well with PAG Oil

Should it leak again I might opt to get it flushed from the guys with the machine.
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