[How to] Pull the engine

Corey

Active member
As far as doing this just in a garage at home, how are you lifting the front end of your car high enough to lower the engine out completely? Any proven/preferable methods for this?

See Page 1
 

mx6er2587

New member
so it looks like posts have been delted in this thread. Was it ever stated how to lift the car high enough to get the engine out? From two of the pictures it looks like chains wrapped around the bumber support? Will that work with the rc support?
 

Sifu

New member
I should have put these here a while back...

Transaxle "Missle Silo Method"
fit.jpg

fit2.jpg

fit3.jpg


This is the hardest part. Making sure that this clears. As you can see there was a lot of fighting w/ all that scraping and getting stuck. You should try to twist and be very careful not to have any fingers getting pinched.

Basically let gravity do the work. Put a piece of carpet on the ground and lay the engine flat on the cam cover side. Take off your powersteering idle valve/bypass valve as those are made of plastic and break easily (replacement is like $80 for the bypass valve, you know, Toyota prices). Carefully lift up the tranny and manuever it over the tranny shaft.

Drop it and twist. Sometimes it's easy to get some rope and put it in the screw holes so you can angle that but I've always been able to drop it onto it w/ no problems. When you can get a screw through the bolting points then do so leaving some slack. Manuever that beast carefully and slowly. It will drop into place.

*** There are other ways of doing this that are easier and less damaging to the brittle pieces but you would need to get both parts sitting on something sturdy and mate them together. You get the idea...
 

Corey

Active member
*** There are other ways of doing this that are easier and less damaging to the brittle pieces but you would need to get both parts sitting on something sturdy and mate them together. You get the idea...

I suggest a wooden pallet to place the tranny onto. Then hoist the motor to mate up with the tranny.

When I did mine this way, It took 3 people to muscle it on and line it all up.

I considered the silo method, but it was a bit intimidating for me :oops:
 

Terracar

New member
Personally I recommend the BMB method - Big Muthatrucking Bolt.

I will get some pics, but was able to one man it and get it done in about 10mins without worrying about it all crashing down.
 

mx6er2587

New member
I tried the big bolt method, in fact I believe I was able to get at least 4 bolts in, and still was unable to get the tranny to mate. My friend and I were baffled. We spent a good 4 hours twisting and shaking and trying different bolt locations.

Missile silo took about 15 mins. I don't think we put a single scrape in the tranny like sifu is showing.

We placed the engine down (cam cover off and of course the power steering idle up removed, that guy should be gone before you even try to drop the engine) on an old tire. We left it chained to the hoist in case of catastrophic failure (you know like falling on our feet while holding a f***ing heavy transmission above it)

The two of us lifted the tranny and manhandled it into place and shook for a bit. Couldn't get it so we pulled it back off, realigned and tried again. A bit more shaking and it slid perfectly.
 

Sifu

New member
Good work! I did it all by myself though... :p All my pulls usually are... :lol: :twisted: :shoots: :evil:
 

Terracar

New member
For the BMB method (bolt method) I used the bolts that held the engine to the engine stand - they were a nice length.

There are 2 key points with the bolt method:

1. You have to have the transmission in gear.
2. You have to have the driveline (or axle- driveline is easiest) in place

You line the engine and trans up as best you can. I had engine on some sturdy blocks with some shims to have it at same angle as the trans. The transmission was on the engine hoist.

Lower the trans and mate it as best as you can to the engine. (remember the way BGB says to remove it - it helps) Cinch up the bolts by hand checking to make sure the output shaft is aligned with clutch. Tighten bolts by hand; once you start getting resistance turn the driveline.

This is wear the trans needs to be in gear - to turn the output shaft to align the splines. Will take a few moments, but you can feel when the splines line up. Keep tightening the bolts up , by hand, using washers/spacers as needed until you can use the real bolts.

Keep in mind by hand can also mean a short stubby ratchet - just be sure ot to over tighten.

Tips:
1. patience
2. You have to have the transmission in gear.
3. You have to have the driveline (or axle- driveline is easiest) in place
4. re-do the spaces/washers on teh bolts frequently as they can only go into the block so far.
5. patience
6. Keep checking alignment of output shaft.
7. patience
 

TRDTurko

New member
I am surprised I havn't seen this question yet: How come you cant pull the motor out from the top? my toyota repair manual says you can.
 

alltracst185

New member
TRDTurko":3mgd37ez said:
I am surprised I havn't seen this question yet: How come you cant pull the motor out from the top? my toyota repair manual says you can.
You can, it's just harder and more of a risk
 

TRDTurko

New member
alltracst185":3eaclqg0 said:
You can, it's just harder and more of a risk

I'll probably just drop mine out the bottom then. thanks

Just goes to show ya the factory manual doesn't always tell you the best way :roll:
 

88gt4DE

Active member
DudeMan":1u1wfhxn said:
Even the techs at Toyota dealerships usually drop it out the bottom.

I think what makes the biggest difference is whether we have a lift to work on or not. Hands down easier to go bottom and yes most front drives we drop out the bottom these days ... way to compact :crazy:
 

zblu81

New member
I'm pulling the engine/trans from my ST185 to install a new clutch + timing belt/pumps/seals. Step 24 in the BGB says to disconnect the "Noise Filter Connector" What is it and where is it located?
 

toayoztan

Moderator
zblu81":bca3tsvw said:
I'm pulling the engine/trans from my ST185 to install a new clutch + timing belt/pumps/seals. Step 24 in the BGB says to disconnect the "Noise Filter Connector" What is it and where is it located?

What's the surrounding context? Removing the intake?

Also sounds electrical.

Bryan
 

zblu81

New member
it is the in the same step as the main wiring harness being removed from the firewall.

***edit: I think. I figured it out. The engine room wiring harness is actually the end of the harness with the afm clip and diagnostic port on it. It also clips onto a little silver box that I believe is the noise filter. The ecu wire harness comes out a few steps later - thanks for the help guys
 

4rsnduction

New member
zblu81":2gpmmdpy said:
I'm pulling the engine/trans from my ST185 to install a new clutch + timing belt/pumps/seals. Step 24 in the BGB says to disconnect the "Noise Filter Connector" What is it and where is it located?

Yes im looking at it now, Page 115 EM-77
BGB PAGE 115.jpg
I'll let someone else fill in the blanks
 

Awesome-Trac

New member
Damn where was this topic when I was pulling off my tranny! I had to lift my car which was hard cause I was using a 2ton jack with no hoist at one point. I dropped my engine through the bottom of the car which was easy but as soon as it came down to removing the tranny and installing, now that was the hard part! " if I had a swear jar it would be filled on that day" this was the first time I've ever removed and install a engine/tranny which was a great experience to learn my way around these cars.
 

defective

New member
I have pulled the engine out of my gt-four 2 times now.I pulled my engine out through the top both times with no trouble at all,the key to doing it is having an engine leveler and of course the engine hoist.Figured id post a couple pictures of the last engine removal.Notice the angle you got to have the engine on in order to remove it.I've never tried dropping the motor down through the bottom so I can't say what way is easier, but I can say this way went very smooth and I will continue doing it this way...Hopefully not for awhile anyway hahah.Lets face it either way is probably a pain an the ass, just one of the many joys of working on these cars 8)
 

Attachments

  • 094 (598x800).jpg
    094 (598x800).jpg
    275.2 KB · Views: 88
  • 093 (598x800).jpg
    093 (598x800).jpg
    295.3 KB · Views: 88
  • 092 (598x800).jpg
    092 (598x800).jpg
    322.5 KB · Views: 88
Top