[How to] Remove gauge cluster and repair faulty tach

Brad_91

New member
Thanks for the write up!

I just swapped out my whole tachometer dial with a functioning one instead of messing with the capacitors in the original. I can attempt to fix my spare cluster now as a project..

Would have taken a lot longer to pull the cluster out the first time without this easy step by step! :notworthy:
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Thanks for doing this writeup, it seemed to fix my issue. I was able to do the new capacitors without taking off the needle and face, but it was a pretty tight working condition.
 
TheNubkins":11d1lf0g said:
Hopefully this helps someone out there.

Another shoutout to TheNubkins for making this write up, flawless instructions and thorough pics. Making this comment to show it's still a relevant issue and that the search function indeed works ha.
 

gt4me123

New member
Great how to guide. Been recommending this for years when people have mentioned that their tachos have died. Agree with others that separating the dial from mechanism isn’t really a necessary step and cuts out a lot of extra hassle
 
I think that the following post of mine will benefit those who are reading this thread;

"Update.

Now I got my CHECK ENGINE light back! And, while I was at it, I fixed my slow/non-reading tachometer!! I removed the guage cluster using the following link: viewtopic.php?f=49&t=48848

I took the light for the CHECK ENGINE out of the back of the guage cluster and applied voltage via a 9 Volt battery. At first it did not turn on. I then applied pressure and squeezed the top of the bulb firmly into the black base and the light came on.

Two top tips..

1. Avoid Stripping Screws And Theads: Removing the guage cluster requires the removal of many screws that are more that willing to strip out both the head of the screw and the female threads that they are screwed into. Therefore, I used my small 3/8 drive right angle Milwaukee impact wrench with a 13mm socket and a SLOTED screw driver forced into the socket with a pressure fit. I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws. I put some of my weight into it so the slotted screw driver would not strip the screw heads. Then I slowly pulled the trigger on the Milwaukee and the screws one by one all gave in and started to loosen.

2. The Metal Retaining Clip: The driver side vent by the fog light switch has a trapazoidal knob attached to the rod that moves up and down so as to open and close the vent behind it. The knob is not too difficult to remove it just pulls out with some force. However, I again overlooked the metal clip that slides onto the rod and retains the knob. It is easy to overlook because when you put the panel back on that goes under the knob, the part of the panel in which the rod goes up and down in pushes the metal clip further down the rod. And when go to put the panel in its proper position and screw it down, you then go to put the knob back on and notice that it will not fasten itself to the rod because the metal clip that is supposed to retain the rod has been pushed back about an inch as you were putting the panel in place.

Next, I removed the panel again and I had to use some PB Blaster and two angled pliers to remove the metal clip from the rod. I took alot of force and when the clip did slide off, it flew off as soon as it was free from the rod. Luckily, it landed inside my shirt. I then reinstalled the panel and when everything was in place, I put the metal clip on the end of the rod and pushed it down the rod until it was flush with the rod. I then was able to put that trapazoidal knob securely back in place.

I said "I again overlooked" because I made the same mistake sometime in the late 90's on my 1991 Celica ST while I was installing a set of Indiglo guage faces which are still working on the car. But this time I figured it out that there is that metal clip that is supposed to retain the knob.

I am sure that many of us made this error so here is the solution. I hope this helps someone out."
 

yyonline

Member
supra-raleigh":sqcosjr4 said:
I think that the following post of mine will benefit those who are reading this thread;
1. Avoid Stripping Screws And Theads: Removing the guage cluster requires the removal of many screws that are more that willing to strip out both the head of the screw and the female threads that they are screwed into. Therefore, I used my small 3/8 drive right angle Milwaukee impact wrench with a 13mm socket and a SLOTED screw driver forced into the socket with a pressure fit. I made sure the slotted screw driver fit snugly into the top of the phillips screws. I put some of my weight into it so the slotted screw driver would not strip the screw heads. Then I slowly pulled the trigger on the Milwaukee and the screws one by one all gave in and started to loosen.

Get a JIS screw driver (not Phillips), and you won't have to worry about stripping screws.
 
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