really slow rc...

Exactly what the title says, the car seems soo slow, when i put it down in a higher gear and low rpm, it hits full boost at ~12-13 and it shutters, the whole car just shakes, then when it finally catches on and stops shaking it goes but not fast at all it sometimes jumps and goes normal for honestly 3 seconds then goes back to going slow, seems like i have a vacuum line leaking or something?
I'm getting a cel, 31 and 24 and the regular 54 which i've had for ever.

I got out of my car and checked under the hood yesterday and the exhaust side of my turbo was bright yellow, a tad hot.
and i could hear mass bubbling in the rad ( I let the air out of that so thats fine now).

Would the turbo heat up cuz its running lean? And possibly having an open vacuum line would cause it to be sucking air in which would make it run lean? I'm just throwing those out there, possible suggestions. THe car runs ok after a little while of driving, SOMETIMES.

left field idea..... check ur head gasket

Another waaay out there idea.....get rid of the CEL codes first.
:wink:

no you guys are both wrong it should run perfectly with 3 engine codes :shock:

Yeah true, but not 100% sure that those cels are
for this issue, i've had those before when I ran the boost mod mentioned in the alltrac mods section. I did that not to long ago and put it back to normal and cuz the light was on cuz of the intercooler I did not notice, I'll be checking the mass air flow sensor tmw, and all the air hoses running to the intake before the turbo for a leak,
I did a compression test and got 110 about across the board. Which is ok isn't it for these cars?

110 is a bit low....okay would be 150 or higher.

Deal with the error codes. Looks like your AFM is wonky. Either unplugged, damaged, or the wiring has been comprimised. Also, the intercooler signal is throwing a code.

The reason it got so hot is that your timing is being retarded significantly, which increases EGT's a *lot*.

Don't drive the car hard until these are dealt with.

kingcobb":q3jxedbe said:

I'm getting a cel, 31 and 24 and the regular 54 which i've had for ever.

Click to expand...

31 - Airflow Meter Signal: Open circuit in VC signal or short circuit between VC and E2 when idle contacts are closed.

24 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor Signal: Open or short circuit in air temp sensor signal (THA).

54 - Intercooler ECU Signal: (1) When coolant level for intercooler is lower than standard. (2) When water pump motor for intercooler has locked or opened.

Hmm, thanks alot for the info! Well I got my timing belt replaced quite a while ago, is it possible that it just jumped a tooth?
And I checked my afm,cleaned it a tad, put some apoxy cement on the recirculating hose welds, and it hasn't happened since, I'm probly going to change my spark plugs and see how that is.

How could i raise the compression? Better plugs which i plan on getting, but anything else?

To get your compression back up....most likely a new headgasket and new piston rings for sure.

..or a new head.