JDM GT Four, ST185RC and ST205.
Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:45 pm
Hi I was wondering how much does a ST205 rear subframe (complete, diff, brakes, axle etc) typically goes for?
Because I found this one in a private warehouse, came out of a 29'000miles ST205 WRC. The guy wants 250$ for it, should I go for it?
Here's a very poor quality picture :
He also has a 2JZ single turbo with around 35'000miles on it, 1800$ if somebody is interested haha
Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:55 am
$250 is a really good price for a 205 rear subframe.
Fri Feb 07, 2014 2:07 am
Agreed buy that thing now before I do lol!!!! Hell that's what the brakes are worth.
Fri Feb 07, 2014 2:08 am
alright thanks ill put a deposit on it asap
Fri Feb 07, 2014 3:25 am
yeah go for it, thats soo cheap, holy shit lool. i guess the suspension doesnt come with it?
Fri Feb 07, 2014 3:27 am
yeah, no suspension but I already have C-One coilover so im covered haha
Fri Feb 07, 2014 5:23 am
You'll need a cam bolt to get your camber into spec but that's easy enough to take care of.
Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:52 am
New Guy wrote:You'll need a cam bolt to get your camber into spec but that's easy enough to take care of.
+1 to that. i never did it cuz it looked too good hehe
Fri Feb 07, 2014 1:45 pm
That's a 1JZ engine not 2JZ.. either way its still a pretty good deal for $1800.
Fri Feb 07, 2014 2:50 pm
yota 3.0 wrote:That's a 1JZ engine not 2JZ.. either way its still a pretty good deal for $1800.
1.5 actually, frankenstein he told me. 2jz block from an auto aristo with a 1jz port/polish chaser head. It was in a S13 silvia K`s ...
And I already have cam bolt currently.
But Im not planning to swap subframes, I wanted to just swap out the diffs and knuckles... So I wouldn`t touch the suspension arm , could that work?
Fri Feb 07, 2014 7:28 pm
I don't think it's the knuckles that cause the camber, it's the 2 control arms, they're slightly longer.
Sat Feb 08, 2014 3:56 am
Correct. The subframe itself is the same, the knuckles are actually a bit different iirc. The big difference is in the lateral arms which are ~30mm longer.
I would swap the diffs and rebuild the knuckles you've got; if it helps any, the rear end is the same between the SV25 (Camry All-Trac) and ST165/ST185. The FWD Camry front wheel bearings are also used in the rear knuckles, so if your local parts house has nothing for the All-Trac rear end see if they can get some wheel bearings for a 1990 Camry.
Edit: But I may be smoking crack. I know that phattyduck here on at.net has done a 205 conversion on a stock rear end. He would know if the knuckles are different.
Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:05 pm
I don't think the knuckles are any different. I've got both in my garage and from a quick comparison last fall they were the same. The hub and heat shield are different though.
Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:17 pm
The 185/165 have the same part number for the knuckle, the 205 is different, but I don't know what actual differences there may be.
Also for the rear bearings you can search under the following vehicles for them in North America:
08/1983-06/1987 TOYOTA COROLLA AE82,CE80 FRONT
09/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA COROLLA FX AE82 FRONT
12/1984-11/1989 TOYOTA MR2 AW11 REAR
08/1985-07/1987 TOYOTA CELICA ST16* FRONT
08/1987-07/1989 TOYOTA CELICA ST16* REAR / FRONT
09/1989-08/1993 TOYOTA CELICA AT180,ST18* REAR / FRONT
09/1993-07/1999 TOYOTA CELICA AT200,ST204 FRONT
01/1983-06/1986 TOYOTA CAMRY SV1*,CV1* FRONT
08/1986-07/1988 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21 REAR / FRONT
08/1988-05/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21 REAR / FRONT
07/1988-08/1991 TOYOTA CAMRY SV2*,VZV21 FRONT
06/1989-06/1991 LEXUS ES250 VZV21 FRONT
11/1995-07/2000 TOYOTA RAV4 SXA1* FRONT
Also the word front now looks funny to me from reading it so many times.
Mon Feb 10, 2014 6:01 pm
There aren't many differences. The hub itself has the 55mm section for the brake disk, the dust shield is bigger... but that's about it. The difference for camber (to correct for the wider track) comes on the struts mounting ears. There may be some revised parts in there, but they are compatible (I used a few parking brake parts to swap over to my stock stuff, etc.)
It is 30mm wider each side. It adds something like 2-3* each side? One side of the my rear has one caber bolt fully maxed, the other two two to get it back to -1*. No more need for spacers. Oh, make sure you swap the axles too - they are needed for the extra width too.
If that subframe includes the diff, it is a SMOKING deal. If it has the brakes, it is a really good deal. If that's just for a clean subframe, arms and knuckles, its a decent price.
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