NiCopp Brake Line pics...and plastidip??

toayoztan

Moderator
Apparently they sell this Nicopp stuff everywhere, including auto parts stores locally.

If it's legit and recommended over plain steel tubing, I may pick it up and begin on my brake lines...yay.

Bryan
 

gearhead313

New member
I remember when my supplier started stocking this stuff probably 3 years ago. I did one car in it, which its super nice since you can perfectly and easily bend what you want. It was way expensive though, if just for a beater. I have no idea if its going to last (it probably will be fine).

Why not run stainless?


isnt our alltracs' 1/4?
 

toayoztan

Moderator
It could be 1/4, I honestly do not know (I haven't checked, yet - just curious if anyone new for sure off the top of their heads).

I wouldn't mind running stainless steel, but this thing is supposed to be durable and very pliable to work with at the same time. It'll make following the route/lines of the stock lines easy, especially since I'll be fabbing up my own lines in the bay for the front two brakes since I removed my ABS. I've never worked with a tube bender, so I don't know the difficulty or learning curve to achieve near OEM lines.

I figured since this wasn't a beater and if I found a good deal on these lines, I'd go ahead and use them. They appear to be promising, after doing a google search review on various forums.

Bryan
 

gearhead313

New member
I repaired some rotted brake lines that went down off the abs and headed forward.... those lines were 1/4".


I bet you wouldnt even need a tubing bender for those copper lines!
 

gt4tified

New member
I dunno...except for the ABS lines, I would stick to the Goodridge or Technafit SS lines, which are tried and proven.
 

toayoztan

Moderator
This is to replace the brake HARD line itself, not the flexible line at each caliper.

Unless I didn't know goodyear and techna fit made hard lines?

Bryan
 

warracer

New member
Well I can't talk by experience but by judging by the website, they have a 2900psi working pressure and a 11'500psi burst pressure, a normal brake system will put out anything in between 1200-2000psi, well under the working pressure.

So I would say yes these look really good.
 

gt4tified

New member
toayoztan":33345xp0 said:
This is to replace the brake HARD line itself, not the flexible line at each caliper.

Unless I didn't know goodyear and techna fit made hard lines?

Bryan

Oh, well in that case, carry on. :D we don't have those issues with our lines here in the Caribbean.
 

toayoztan

Moderator
In case anyone is wondering, the brake lines are measuring 3/16, not 1/4.

And I imagine the fittings are M10 x 1.0.

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
So, I got started on making fresh brake lines for the car.

I bought 50' of 3/16" line. I'm also using AGS (same makers of the NiCopp lines) tube nuts/brake line fittings.

To cut the brake lines to proper length, I'm using my brother's saw and deburring the edges. Then I double flare with a 20 dollar double flare tool from auto store. It works decent, but I believe it'll seal just fine. If I am having issues and it leaks still when I get the system tested/pressurized, I'll buy a better double flare tool, cut the existing flare, and try again. I gave myself enough length to redo if necessary.

Here are random pics with my camera phone. I'll try and get better pics tomorrow with my camera. I only did one of the rear brake lines so far. I'll do the other tomorrow.

This stuff is really easy to work with and bend with your hands/fingers. They don't 'kink' or whatnot when you bend them either.

QUESTION:

The stock brake lines have a rubber coating on some lengths/parts of the brake lines. I was contemplating of spraying parts of the brake line with plastidip to get a "weatherproof" seal. Thoughts? The stuff is rated up to 200 deg. F. I'm unsure how hot brake lines actually get. I don't see plastidip being an issue in trapping debris/moisture/etc between itself and the brake line to deteriorate/corrode them. Maybe on the ends, but I doubt that even.

What do you guys think?

PICS:

Non-ABS goodies from 2 celicas I found in the junkyard. I'll be using the P-Valve and 3-way from the better of the two and use the lines as a template.
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20130318205515.jpg


20130318205456.jpg


Bryan
 

deecee

New member
Bryan:
- double flare all ends
- file and de-burr all ends to make it easier to flare
- use assembly lube or some sort of lube when you flare the pipe
- leave room for the fitting and flaring tool when you bend the pipe to shape. Nothing worse than not having enough room to flare the pipe end
 

toayoztan

Moderator
DeeCee":3ry3gb3h said:
Bryan:
- double flare all ends
- file and de-burr all ends to make it easier to flare
- use assembly lube or some sort of lube when you flare the pipe
- leave room for the fitting and flaring tool when you bend the pipe to shape. Nothing worse than not having enough room to flare the pipe end

Yeah I've already flared and added the fittings to the new line I made in the pics above.

I double flared at one end, then made my way and bent the lines by hand. The NiCopp material is pretty pliable to work with by hand without a tube bender.

I used the saw to make straight cuts (the tube cutter tool doesn't actually cut, just compresses and squishes the ID tubing). Then I use a file to deburr the edges.

I didn't use any assy lube or any kind of lube when I double flared. I didn't feel the need to as, again, the lines are easy to work with, unlike the SS lines at times.

One thing though, is I'm getting good flares, but on both it BARELY is off center. The fitting still sits snug and all, but I believe it'll work. I'll have to get pics of it. I left about 2 inches extra of line on each side, in case I need to cut them off and redo the flares with a better/more precise (thus more expensive) double flare tool. Despite taking as much time as you can to double flare and not rush, it's just almost impossible to perfectly get these things centered.

I'll take a pic of the ends to show you what I mean. When I get all the lines hooked up, I'll get the fluid in the system and test them out. If they leak, I'll redo the flares, and it's easy to unbend and rebend the lines by hand.

Bryan
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Any comments on the plastidip?

I think I will spray some plastidip on some spare lines I have to see how well it'll look and hold. I know it'll seal pretty good, but i'm curious about the aesthetic and the heat from the lines.

Bryan
 

Fox 21 Alpha

New member
I painted my new OEM Toyota lines in 2 coats of POR15 before I put them on because I never wanted them to rust again. It went on but didn't hold too well to such a small round shape, but a large portion of it is still on there and better then nothing. I'd think you'd be ok plastidipping, the lines stay away from the exhaust mostly, and I don't think they get that hot. Worse case scenario all I can see happening in the plasti dip being burned off. I'd definitely try and do some sort of coating to help protect all your work from corrosion, I was also thinking of using shrink tubing haha.
 

ALLensTRAC

New member
Hey Bryan I just saw this but I have a question. In the AGS link it says you can get the fittings black oxide coated but all the ones on their site show just standard finish. Did you recieve any that were coated for corrosion resistance? Did you purchase the metric kit or count up how many you needed?

And as for the rubber covers for the rear lines I was thinking of using thick heat shrink tubing or vaccum tubing although that would make bending much more difficult. Did you end up plasti dipping them?
 
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