Alltrac Handling FAQ

CMS-GT4

Active member
Great to hear. I think the alignment being of on this car is why people have handling problems. If everyone invested in a proper alignment, are cars are more likely to smoke to competition.
 

mtbgael

New member
CMS-GT4":2ce3ktx6 said:
Great to hear. I think the alignment being of on this car is why people have handling problems. If everyone invested in a proper alignment, are cars are more likely to smoke to competition.

:wink:

Be careful on a lot of toe out though, your tires will wear much quicker.
 

Griffin

New member
CMS-GT4":2s44iy69 said:
Great to hear. I think the alignment being of on this car is why people have handling problems. If everyone invested in a proper alignment, are cars are more likely to smoke to competition.

My alignment was in factory specs before (actually a little more aggressive than factory specs). but that extra camber up front seemed to make a huge difference.
 

mtbgael

New member
Griffin":n0q5qeme said:
CMS-GT4":n0q5qeme said:
Great to hear. I think the alignment being of on this car is why people have handling problems. If everyone invested in a proper alignment, are cars are more likely to smoke to competition.

My alignment was in factory specs before (actually a little more aggressive than factory specs). but that extra camber up front seemed to make a huge difference.

The toe is probably what caused it to be so much more responsive. The extra negative camber should've worked out some understeer and provided more grip...
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
I had some info in my head a while and with some posts from other threads recently, I think I have a good enough grasp to share my view.

Front and rear track to adjust handling.
When I installed my teins, I also did my 25mm rear spacer atthe same time. At the time I thought the 25 mm spacer, made the front and rear track the same. The lookedclose visualy, but recently someone found they make the track 10 m wider. This doesn't sound like much, but from my experience it really effects the car.

http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9661

I had a 8mm spacer that I bought to make the fronts look better since they were so tucked, even thought it didn't help my 17x7 40ets much, it did change handling a bit.

At first with just the 25 mm spacer the car handled well. There was minor push going into a turn, nuetral middle turn and slight oversteer on exit.

I tried driving the car with the 8 mm spacer on both fron and rear.
On the rear the car had simular characterstics to w/o the spacer but I had to turn up the rear struts to maintsain the slight oversteer on exit.

Instaling the 8 mm spacer on the front made the car scary. It made the car into point and go. I took some turns so much faster that it firghtened me cause I was used to being at the end of my limits at that point but now I still had grip. I however didn't notice the oversteer qualities much cause the car seemed to rely more on hte fronts to do the work and dragged me around.

I am not sure if a 5 mm spacer would be better for the sake of making the tracks even or the 8mm spacer since the front track is slightly wider than the rear. Maybe the best way to test is someone with 20mm rear spacers to test even track and then adding spacer on the front to see if it improves handling or not.
 

b00staholic

New member
I think I will try adding my 25mm H&R spacers to the FRONT with no spacers in the rear and see how that feels.

I am still of the opinion that increasing the rear track does nothing but add understeer.
 

sikx5

New member
That is a good point there Cold-Iron. I added the rear 25mm H&R's just for the looks. I noticed the car didnt turn in as sharp, but the car felt more stable so to speak at decent speed. Be interesting to see what happens when the spacers are up at the front though.

Cheers
 

Griffin

New member
When you change the front offset you change the scrub radius, which will cause toe in or toe out on cornering depending on whether you move the centerline out or in. Thats probably why the turn in felt more aggressive on the front - its the same effect I got when I set my toe out a while back.
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Basically, the underbrace attempts to stiffen the chassis a bit. The benefits (supposedly) are improved turn-in and a more stable geometry when handling near (or at) the limits.
Noticable improvement in quick steering changes such as when making quick lane changes/slalom (given the tires are sufficient enough to exploit it).

And just a reminder, no matter how good your suspension is, without good tires, it means little.
 

exST165

New member
CMS-GT4":139mi1ca said:
Talks about adjusting the caster of the alltrac.

http://alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=125852#125852

This link doesn't work for me.

mtbgael, can you provide details on how you sloted the bolt holes to get more camber, or is that pretty much it: remove strut, enlarge hole, replace strut and make sure the bolts are torqued to spec? I've heard of people making their own camber-plates so they can play with camber and caster and I'm just wondering how that compares to making some bigger holes/slots within the ability of the bolts/washers to grip the remaining sheet metal.

TIA,
Thomas
 

CMS-GT4

Active member
Celica Tech thread on weight reduction.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showth ... post205044

A gts owner got his car down to 2395 from 2980lbs. He removed interior, used lighter seats and removed uneccesary items from the engine bay.

Still has a moon roof and factory glass.

I think an alltrac could get down to the 2700lb range with the same methods.

Plus you can save 35lbs off the roof ~25lbs with a cf hood, and some more weight with a cf hatch.

A fuel cell, lighter suspension parts, wheels and a few other items plus the ones I listed, I bet an alltrac could see ~2500-2600lbs.

Should make a nice track car around that weight.
 
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