Alternator fuse

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Alternator fuse

Postby hacker_720 » Tue Dec 06, 2005 12:28 pm

ST185
If you blow your alternator fuse, like I did, don't try to just pull it out. I was pulling on it, and I broke it and tried to pull out all the parts. The 100A fuse it bolted in. You have to take off the bottom cover to the fuse box, then you have to pull that section out of the box. The 100A fuse is bolted in, once you take off the bolts, it comes right out. If you go to a parts stor to buy a fuse for it, it is not like the other fuses in the fuse box, it is a male fuse with two long pins comming off of it to conect to the bolts.
I don't know if I'm a complet idiot or if others have had this problem.

ps.
What is the voltages of the three pin conector for the alternator supose to be. My alternator still doesn't work and I'm thinking it may be something to do with the regulator system. If anyone knows the voltage please tell me, or if someone could meaure for me, I would apreicate that.
I have

+ 11.50V
+11.49V
+2.10V

And the terminal on the alternator is only producing +0.63V
This is the thrid alternator that I have tried.
All grounds are new, all contacts are clean.
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Postby bigacuralvr » Tue Dec 06, 2005 5:04 pm

Its called a Fusable Link, and yes, it is Bolted on, Thanks Toyota! As far as the voltage, I can check when I get home today, but the Valtage Regulator is built into the Alternator....so you may have a bad alt. When I had my 90 GT, I ate through an Alt about every 6 month. Finally, I went to Toyota, bought a refurb, and it ran great for about 60k, it probably still is doing fine (I sold it...). Anyways, the warranty on the refurb is like 6 months, but my Totota guy said that if you have trouble, they would just replace it, thats how solid they are. Anyways, I'll check the Voltage tonight, if nobody else gets it first.
Brett.
1990 Celica AllTrac Turbo - Sold to a new home :(
1999 Yukon - Family Mobile
2000 Dakota Club Cab - Snow Machine
2006 Scion xB - Pimp Box - HP2BSQR
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Postby smc252 » Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:16 pm

I'm having the same problem, the second alternator I installed, which was known to be good, still wont put out 14v. It's probably somehow wire related.
1988 All-Trac
(Rotting away, fiending for a tranny.)

1986 Celica GTS
(GT3071R forced 3s-gte + autronic smc)
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Postby evo » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:26 pm

Are you testing for voltage at the alternator? or at the battery? there is a difference.

Test from the alternator, and see if the voltage is consistant. You are right, you should see around 14 volts. Have someone rev the engine, and see if it fluctuates much, if it goes up and down like a volt or more, your voltage regulator is funky (part of the alternator assembly)

if you're not getting 14v from the alternator, you might need new brushes, maybe $14 from toyota (if its a toyota alt!) one way to test for this is by tapping the alternator with the back end of a screwdriver while watching your voltmeter, if it jumps up to 14v, you definately need new brushes. Sometimes your brushes are just so far gone that this wont happen.


is this a toyota alternator you're testing with? usually good alternators dont come out of engine bays, so if you found it laying around, its probably suspect as well.


Hope this helps
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Postby Refyused » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:55 pm

Heh, I did the same thing you did hacker. I ended up destroying the plastic, after that I saw that the metal prongs went down further so I unscrewed the box from the battery cage and pulled out the part that held the 30a, 40a, 60a and 100a fuses and saw it was screwed on there :lol:
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