I have plans to install a J&S Safeguard, which is not only a knock sensor, but also gives the ability to retard ignition timing, and i plan to boost turbo pressure on the stock ct26. and since the 3SGTE is MAF, tuning isn't necessary because more induced air means more fuel, and being that the stock 440cc injectors and fuel delivery system can hand 275whp, being that i can also control fuel delivery with a manual fuel pressure regulator. Does this sound like a good idea?
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who has used J&S Safeguard?
- Thread starter xander279
- Start date
Kinda...
Factory ECU handles knock, as does your ears (back off when you hear it).
Unless your fuel quality varies a lot, then an extra knock sensor isnt needed.
If pushing the boost on the factory ECU and injectors, you are better off spending the money on a Wideband O2 kit instead of the knock sensor.
I would suggest an Innovate Motorsports LC-1kit + gauge.
That way you can push the boost until you start to see the engine leaning out.
A WB02 is also just a *very* reassuring thing to have.
I couldnt drive my car hard now without one... not knowing if its leaning out or not.
Factory ECU handles knock, as does your ears (back off when you hear it).
Unless your fuel quality varies a lot, then an extra knock sensor isnt needed.
If pushing the boost on the factory ECU and injectors, you are better off spending the money on a Wideband O2 kit instead of the knock sensor.
I would suggest an Innovate Motorsports LC-1kit + gauge.
That way you can push the boost until you start to see the engine leaning out.
A WB02 is also just a *very* reassuring thing to have.
I couldnt drive my car hard now without one... not knowing if its leaning out or not.
Those things are handy enough for detecting minor knock that you can't easily hear, though you can accomplish the same thing by wiring a LED up to the knock sensor, or installing a second one dedicated to a visual representation of knock.
With that said, a wideband is a much better investment all around, as was said.
If you want to run lots of boost, do it on a real turbo rather than the craptastic CT housing. All you're going to do running north of ~16psi is make lots of heat, and give it nowhere to go given the restrictive turbine.
Pulling timing so you can get away with running a compressor well outside of its efficiency range, with a very hot intake charge, is a recipe for a popped engine.
With that said, a wideband is a much better investment all around, as was said.
If you want to run lots of boost, do it on a real turbo rather than the craptastic CT housing. All you're going to do running north of ~16psi is make lots of heat, and give it nowhere to go given the restrictive turbine.
Pulling timing so you can get away with running a compressor well outside of its efficiency range, with a very hot intake charge, is a recipe for a popped engine.