Just got a T3/T04B turbo, what do I need for Fuel?

G

gearhead313

New member
I really dont want to argue, but i still think its a wrong statement.

What would do it is some type of proof from people that have blown a motor (melted a piston) and get the account of what a/f ratio they were at.

I'd rather have some good information up for people that might have the same questions..... how credible is 2 different sides just stating their claim.


Im going to try to get a wide band here to put on this civic i have so i can see where im at on it. Its the only boost car i have left running at the shop now.
 
A

AwdGte

New member
I don't want to argue either, I will tell you this, besides knowing my information is factual, I have tuned stand alones on the dyno and on the street, particularly the AEM and TEC2. You don't need to have a melted motor to know if their is a difference. After you tune it on a dyno, and you go out on the street, do a long pull and compare the difference in EGT's from the dyno to the street. Watch the EGT's get higher on the street, then your pulls on the dyno, as that is a reflection of load and cylinder pressure. That will give you your confirmation without blowing a motor up.


gearhead313":1cy2kdiu said:
I really dont want to argue, but i still think its a wrong statement.

What would do it is some type of proof from people that have blown a motor (melted a piston) and get the account of what a/f ratio they were at.

I'd rather have some good information up for people that might have the same questions..... how credible is 2 different sides just stating their claim.


Im going to try to get a wide band here to put on this civic i have so i can see where im at on it. Its the only boost car i have left running at the shop now.
Click to expand...
 
Z

Zeus

New member
I typically like to play it safe... yes a safer a/f ratio might not be as fast but a blown motor isnt fast at all!

hence why i ran 11.8 a/f ratio and why ill do it again on the new set up :)

in reality im sure you could play with the a/f's till you start to hear some knock and then richen it up... but to me that doesnt leave any room for things like a bad tank of gas ect...
 
F

furpo

New member
personally i would consider 12 to 1 for any vehicale using some type of 'supercharger' to be the leanest you would want to go. i personally have get better torque numbers all the way up the power band with more fuel and more ignition rather than less fuel and less ignition. this is to a point of course.

on the mini i am running 12.5 through out and this is an na engine with a dynamic compression ratio of 9.2 to 1. the only difference between pump gas and is the ignition.

a way around having to use rich mixtures is to use water injection. i have not tuned a water injection set up so could someone who has let us know what the difference is?

i find it a pain in the ass to use egts on anything other than the dyno. i find it easier to listen for knock. i only monitor egts cos i can.

roger
 
I

illGT4

New member
furpo":2ebkfx7f said:
personally i would consider 12 to 1 for any vehicale using some type of 'supercharger' to be the leanest you would want to go. i personally have get better torque numbers all the way up the power band with more fuel and more ignition rather than less fuel and less ignition. this is to a point of course.

on the mini i am running 12.5 through out and this is an na engine with a dynamic compression ratio of 9.2 to 1. the only difference between pump gas and is the ignition.

a way around having to use rich mixtures is to use water injection. i have not tuned a water injection set up so could someone who has let us know what the difference is?

i find it a pain in the ass to use egts on anything other than the dyno. i find it easier to listen for knock. i only monitor egts cos i can.

roger
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if this is what you mean or not; so I appologize in advance. (I'm leaning towards you NOT meaning this based on your other ppsts)

Tuning with WI would be a bit dangerous if at some point the WI fails.

11.5-11.8 on pump fuel would be what I'd be aiming for.
Any more and I'd like to call it a race fuel only map.

Best Regards,
 
F

furpo

New member
yes that is true. water injection as far as i understand allows you to run leaner because you are no longer putting extra fuel in to cool the combustion you are putting water in instead so the chances of your engine melting are quite high if the water injection fails and you don't know it has. can someone correct me if i am wrong because i have never used water injection.

the air fuel ratio i settle on all depends on what i am tuning and where the results look best. i say 12 to 1 because this is the leanest mixture i have ever used as a full power mixture. note we have 98 as pump gas down here.

roger
 
I

illGT4

New member
Sorry for going off topic..


You are correct in your WI statement above.

How is your 98 fuel rated?

In other words, the 94 (R+M/2) here at the pump = 98-100 RON

So is your fuel RON or ??
 
I

illGT4

New member
gt4toy":1sg84ovm said:
yeah, it's 98 RON.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gus, that's what I thought.

In Pennsylvania, we can get 94, which is between 98 and 100 RON (Source - Sunoco) Most stations carry 93.

In Arizona, I can only find 92 :( Most places only having 91..

The South West and California sucks for good fuel.
 
F

furpo

New member
gt4toy":2e4phfol said:
yeah, it's 98 RON.
Click to expand...

the gull stuff is rated R+M/2. that is according to there cemical engineer at the mount. it is 96.

yeah all the others are RON. and yes 98 RON is what most of us use as pump gas.

thanks for that illgt4
 
G

GT4TOY

New member
I thought Gull was 97.5 (I'm sure it says that on the pump) but you only have to pay for 96 - 5c cheaper :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top