spark plugs

gt4tified

New member
etantshi":2rrnrkf2 said:
Tree stumps!? I thought only the necks down here did that. lol It seems to have spread up north.

And down south.....waaaaaay down south too! lol

Nothing but solid mahogany for me!
 

furpo

New member
First post for a while on here and I am already pointing out shit.

Electrodes on spark plugs are made as thin as possible because it is easier for an electron to leap away from a thinner surface than a thicker surface. A precious metal electrode is thinner than a copper electrode because it can handle the heat of combustion in a thinner state. This allows you to run a larger gap which generally helps if you have an idle problem. It does not give you a bigger spark as the spark energy is determined by the coil. If you have made no modifications to your engine you want to run the plug type and gap recommended by the manufacturer. If the manufacturer recommend a precious metal plug and you use a copper plug you will need to tighten the gap.

The only reason you want to go to a colder running plug is because you are seeing signs of the plug overheating. This can be seen as 'chalking' around the electrode.

Roger
 

Corey

Active member
I've noticed that the NGK has wires for the 90-91 and 92-32 ST185s.

Whats the difference?

Looking in the service manual for a 90 alltrac.

Recommended Gap .8mm or .31"

According to NGK site, their "oem replacement" plugs for the 90 celica alltrac come in .32"

Also, NGK shows that the BKR6EP-8 Double Platinum plug is the OEM standard replacement for our cars. the '90 service manual supports this -
"Recommend Spark Plug: ND PK20R8 or NGK BKR6EP-8"

It also states that plugs should be replaced every 100k km. which is a hell of a lot more than 2-3 oil changes. but i guess that is with their recommended platinum plugs


Thanks

Corey
 

CDN-GT4

Member
After being around MR2's for the last 8 years, I'll never buy anything other than OEM ignition components. Even if wires are expensive they last for years and years.

This is on the BCMR2 site and I've been using NGK BKR7E's.

MKII TOYOTA MR2 / L4 / 2.0 / 3SGTE
Plug Gap 0.032

SPARK PLUGS
G-Power Platinum BKR6EGP 7092
Laser BKR6EP-8 2215
Iridium IX BKR6EIX 6418

NOTE
Boosted MKII 3SGTE running 14+ PSI
Recommended Plug Gap .028
Recommended Plugs NGK BKR7E 6097
 

Corey

Active member
Im not sure.

Oem manual says .31 for platinum NGK's, while NGK's site says .32 for the same plug on a 90 celica alltrac.

im going to go with the manual. but i dont know what it should be for iridiums.
 

Corey

Active member
any ideas on why NGk has different lead sets for the 90-91 and 92-93? on 935motorsports, the 90-91 is more expensive too :shrug:
 

pg

New member
CDN-GT4":i71i19qp said:
It should be fine. 0.31~0.32 won't make a noticeable difference if you're on stock boost levels.

What if I'm running 14 psi, how do i know what gap/sparkplug to use?
 

tw2

New member
Someone posted up a short guide ages ago with boost level to show which range to get and always gap them at 0.31" or whatever is stock. I think it was something like- you want to use stock up to 14psi, go a step colder up to 22psi and something special over that.

I have NGK 7's at the moment on 13psi and I am pretty sure they are causing some hesitation down low especially when cold but I am waiting on new ignition leads to make sure. I will swap 6's back in to see what happens. I imagine since most people who run low to moderate boost still spend almost all their time off boost anyway 6's would be the way to go.

Are there any merits to going 0.28 instead of 0.31?
 

tw2

New member
I swapped 6's at 0.032" back in today and it idles a lot better without the very occasional miss. The 7's were very black with the tips a dark to medium grey so I am guessing I do not spend enough time in high boost to warrant them.
 

WarTowels

Active member
I'm on NGK 7's right now. Running stock boost on a ^HIGH^ mileage stock engine. Seems to run and idle just fine. Purs like a kitten for me.

:shrug:

I'm using the BGB measurement of .08 metric.



-Towels
 

furpo

New member
tw2":xl14zysi said:
Someone posted up a short guide ages ago with boost level to show which range to get and always gap them at 0.31" or whatever is stock. I think it was something like- you want to use stock up to 14psi, go a step colder up to 22psi and something special over that.

I have NGK 7's at the moment on 13psi and I am pretty sure they are causing some hesitation down low especially when cold but I am waiting on new ignition leads to make sure. I will swap 6's back in to see what happens. I imagine since most people who run low to moderate boost still spend almost all their time off boost anyway 6's would be the way to go.

Are there any merits to going 0.28 instead of 0.31?

This shows a miss understanding of how the plug works. The spark energy remains the same as the coil remains the same. A hotter plug will not 'boost the spark'. The plug heat range is a measure of the plugs ability to move heat energy away from the electrode. A hotter plug will have a hotter electrode. The electrode must be above a given temperature to burn the combustion deposit off so not to foul.

You only need to go down in plug temperature if the eletrode shows signs of over heating. This is influanced by the temperature of combustion and not the boost level.

A wider plug gap gives a greater surface area for which to ignite the charge. The down side it is harder to fire electrons over a greater gap especially when the charge is more dense. A reduced plug gap will reduce peak VE miss fires.

The stock plug is BKR6EP8. i.e. 14mm thread, 5/8 hex, projected tip, resistor type, NGK heat range 6, Platnuim plug gaped to 0.8mm.

If you run a non presious metal plug you will have to run a smaller gap.

The BGB has both metric and imperial gaps. Not that it makes any difference.

Roger
 

tw2

New member
furpo":1at6el1c said:
The electrode must be above a given temperature to burn the combustion deposit off so not to foul.
This is why I changed back to 6's since I believed that the 7's were fouling up more than they should. It idled and ran fine but it ran better after I changed them (after 5000km) which I don't know- might? be due to carbon build up?
 

86turboswap

New member
Corey Darling":r3y6ldec said:
any ideas on why NGk has different lead sets for the 90-91 and 92-93? on 935motorsports, the 90-91 is more expensive too :shrug:

The 90-91 3S-GTE used 7-8mm plug wires in 92 they changed to the current toyota scheme of 5mm wires with clips that hold them into the cap. If you have a 92-93 you can switch to the 90-91 wires you just have to buy a new 90-91 cap.

I prefer the 8mm wires!
 

BriinumsBo

New member
Im running NGK iridium grade 8 on stock boost, the only mod is de-cat downpipe. would some OEM type grade 6 be better than grade 8 Iridiums? what can go wrong with grade 8 ?
 
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