SMT-6 installed!

ChrisD

New member
Hey guys,

I've now finished up the install of my Perfect Power SMT-6. As described in one of the other threads in this section, it is a piggyback computer that gives me full control over fuel and ignition timing, plus allows for extra injectors, as well as a lot of other things. Check it out here: http://www.sea2skytuning.com ..."Weasy2k" on this board is the owner of that site and was extremely helpful to me during the installation.

The install went fairly smoothly, except for my battery which needed to be boosted. Other than that, it starts and runs beautifully. I'm using this in conjunction with a J&S Safeguard.

I can't really do much for tuning until I get a wideband o2 sensor, which I will be getting from the group buy sometime soon.

Here is a basic wiring diagram on how to install the unit: http://www.snimoc.com/pix/smt3sgte01a.jpg

The only difference between that and how I installed it is that I used the Air flow meter for the load signal, instead of the throttle position sensor.

I'll keep everyone posted as I progress with the project. I'm aiming for a ~17psi street tune, on 540cc/min injectors. The software is extremely easy to use. I might post some screen shots of it later.

Just thought you guys would be interested in this, since it is a much cheaper option than the Greddy Emanage, and is easily just as capable, possibly even more so since I'm told it is even possible to use it to remove the AFM altogether.

Chris
 

Weasy2k

New member
Good work Chris! Its nice to see this working out for you, and no problem with the help on the install, all the confusion is finally starting to be sorted out.
Look for new updates on the Sea2Sky Tuning website with proper wiring diagrams for the MR2 and the GTFOUR (similar to chris's setup)

Good luck on your future projects Chris and keep me up to date!
 

ChrisD

New member
Will do Johnny! I've started to play with it a bit...its cool listening to the engine responding and making some adjustments at idle. Everything is working perfect.

I've got a few screen shots now. The red cell is the current cell that the engine is in. The green cell is the one you are modifying. The 3SGTE AFM reads 5-0V, so full closed is at 100% deflection, and fully open is 0%. I found idle to be around 55-60%, ie. it is open 40-45% of the way at idle. Also disregard the A/F values, it is a narrowband and my o2 sensor is dead.

For everyone else, this program is extremely easy to use. The help is amazing. Johnny really takes the extra step to help.

smt6_fuelmap_idle.jpg


smt6_fuelmap_rev.jpg


smt6_ignmap_noadj.jpg


smt6_ignmap.jpg
 

Weasy2k

New member
Austen_gt4":2bhbx1r5 said:
would/could this work with a vpc. or would it just make thing more difficult?

what would you want to do with the vpc?

If you wanted to modify your fuel settings even more jsut set up the vpxc the way you want too then use the smt6 to intercept the wire going into the ECU and tune from there.

So yes it would work it would even work if you changed the injectors to something different then what the VPC is "chipped" for, as the smt6 will moify the signal like you normaly do when you upgrade your injectors.
 

jhull

New member
thats great the smt is working well. i always wondered how that would do on a 3s there was a group buy on a mr2 board, but it seems noone is responding on how they like there systems. im running a prs8. im still in the tuning process. having some difficulties, but i noticed you said you had to boost your battery... what do you mean by that. im having a problem with start up because the stock cam sensors signal is so weak so while cranking im having issues getting spark when it does spark it fires up and then runs decient. the faster the engine is moving the better the signal is coming from the cam sensor. so i mived the pickup as close as possible to the tooth and got a little better signal but still not doing it well. i was debating going with a 16v 3 post battery using 12volts for the engine and the 16v just for the starter so it cranks a little faster. but id rather not get into all that because that route will make me have to modify the alternator ect... any suggestions?
 

Weasy2k

New member
jhull":2zvnak7l said:
thats great the smt is working well. i always wondered how that would do on a 3s there was a group buy on a mr2 board, but it seems noone is responding on how they like there systems. im running a prs8. im still in the tuning process. having some difficulties, but i noticed you said you had to boost your battery... what do you mean by that. im having a problem with start up because the stock cam sensors signal is so weak so while cranking im having issues getting spark when it does spark it fires up and then runs decient. the faster the engine is moving the better the signal is coming from the cam sensor. so i mived the pickup as close as possible to the tooth and got a little better signal but still not doing it well. i was debating going with a 16v 3 post battery using 12volts for the engine and the 16v just for the starter so it cranks a little faster. but id rather not get into all that because that route will make me have to modify the alternator ect... any suggestions?

Actualy i do have a suggestion (and will be sending your message to the head guys at perfect power as well so expect a reposnse via email to you)
Here is one message i got recently about the PRS unit from a PP guy:
"You see, most guys would over drive the ignition drivers of the Prs and hence would damage the unit. Hence the need for a mega spark ignition amplifier to help with running the unit"

I am unsure right now if this the case in your car but by monday/tuesday I will have answer.

As for boosting the battery....well we were wondering why it wasnt starting and about 1 hour later...we went back to our LOGICAL roots and figured...check the battery!!..yea it was dead :shrug: :)
 

jhull

New member
thanks for the help. I contacted perfect power regarding this many times. celicas been a long project. was a gt to start, then did engine swap but before i could put in the new engine i had to build it. lol
in the end I had to many modifications to ever dream of using a stock computer so i went with a prs8 then gutted most stock sensors. put in some aftermarket ones. got rid of the ignitor, mass air meter ect....
made a new harness. tested all the sensors on the bench with the prs then installed everything put the engine in and started doing more wiring then decieded it was time to fire it up. I just painted it so the car is gutted of pretty much everything. but i just wanted to be able to start it up and with some minor tuning just get it to move so i dont have to push it out of the garage all the time. thats when i ran into the issues with the stock cam sensor. crank sensor is fine got the correct rpms all the time but the cam sensor i think is to weak of a signal i sent it over to ida to have them take a look and they said it was very weak and to try to do a different set up id much rather try to get this to work, then to add more. after messing with it for some time the conclusion i came up with is cam sensor is just to weak of a signal if i take the plugs out and crank it (cranks faster) i get a pretty solid spark if the battery has a decient voltage, if i put the plugs in and crank it (around 220-230 rpms) then i dont get a solid spark it skips many revolutions when i do get spark it trys to start but most of the time doesnt. just blows black smoke.. i know i have much more tuning left but i need to get this problem under control before i can move on to the igntion and fuel map if it dont start you cant tune right. lol im going to play with a ignitor on a bench today to see if i can get it working with the prs to my knoledge it pretty much boosts the signal so if i can get it to boost the signal then i think i will be fine. once it starts it gets good spark idles well with the correct map so i think i just need to get this signal a little higher to get a solid spark during cranking. have you worked with the prs units yet?
 

OlyST185

Active member
whats the price for that standalone?
Why dont you use MAP sensor or alpha-b instead of a restrictive AFM?
 

Weasy2k

New member
OlyST185":3izxp73f said:
whats the price for that standalone?
Why dont you use MAP sensor or alpha-b instead of a restrictive AFM?

The price of the PRS system 1300....however the new XMS system from perfect power should be a pritty nice system as well :) going for 1400usd currently (not out yet)....

Hang tight jeremy the answer awaits :)
 

Weasy2k

New member
jhull...it just occured to me....do you have ANYTHING in your maps right now? Esspecialy in your timing maps?

one of the main causes for an engine to not crank fast enought o start is timing is not set properly....let me know if you need ignition maps again (i sent you some via website)

Talk to yea soon!
 

Zeus

New member
very nice chris! damn looks like this year might be the year for someone to run 12's on the stock block hey!
 

ChrisD

New member
Thats what I'm hoping for! :D

A couple people have made it there already, Les in Toronto with his 205 swap, and another guy in eastern europe. But I definitely think there are going to be some very quick cars surfacing next season...I'm thinking your car will be right up there too! :smokes:
 

jhull

New member
yeah I have a map loaded its nothing special just to get it to fire and start its base pulse is at 15degrees, problem is spark is irradic doesnt fire every revolution only fires about 2 out of 10 revolutions like i said when it sparks alot of the times it goes to start but im cranking for 5 min before i get it to start. because the spark just isnt there.
 

Zeus

New member
chris_dittrick":3flapgb5 said:
Thats what I'm hoping for! :D

A couple people have made it there already, Les in Toronto with his 205 swap, and another guy in eastern europe. But I definitely think there are going to be some very quick cars surfacing next season...I'm thinking your car will be right up there too! :smokes:

hmmm first 2nd gen motor? i guess we need to specify now lol

and thanks man... im thinking all i really need is my front mount to be there myself
 

Weasy2k

New member
jhull":2170bnd7 said:
yeah I have a map loaded its nothing special just to get it to fire and start its base pulse is at 15degrees, problem is spark is irradic doesnt fire every revolution only fires about 2 out of 10 revolutions like i said when it sparks alot of the times it goes to start but im cranking for 5 min before i get it to start. because the spark just isnt there.

Perfect, Here is a test that one of the guys a PP wants you to do for him.

I think it is best we work by a process of elimination here, from you information I am almost certain your output wiring is 100%, but I first want to confirm it, put it to bed so we don't have to worry about it again. Got a little trick here, take your ignition outputs and assign them to injector outputs, turn ignition on but don't crank. The prime cycles of the injectors should make the ignition spark, does this happen?

Let me know! 8)
 

jhull

New member
yes outputs are correct. i also have injector noids. all outputs are right on. I already checked each one individually by turning them on and off to verify all outputs were working as they are suppost to. deffiently a issue with cam sensor being to weak this is what pp told me last year, and when hooked up to a scope it also verifies that the signal is very weak. cranks a lot higher signal sence its 24 teeth but cam is only one tooth and doesnt have a output that the prs likes to see when cranking. again once started its fine! sparks great, but while cranking spark isnt there often because the signal is to low. im sure u know the signal is amplified by turning speed the faster the trigger is turning the better the signal hence why during cranking it doesnt spark well but once running and ideling @1000rpms its steady and sparks perfect. because the signal is now up sence its spinning faster. im still unsure if the ignitor could amplify the signal im still trying to research the exact job the ignitor is soppost to do so i can figure out what it will do with the prs. I would like to go with stock cam/crank sensors, and didnt know if there was a solution for doing this yet. im guessing not :( im not going to do a crank trigger wheel. so im forced to either try to get a ignitor to amplify or modify another dizzy to fit in the 3s head and work cam/crank :doh: i wish it could be something so dumb as a output, would save me a lot of work. keep the suggestions coming maybe we will descover something.
 

ChrisD

New member
I took the car out for some spirited driving over the weekend, with the laptop hooked up to the SMT6. It seems that my AFM is damn near maxed out. Not that I can't get more power out of it, however, just that it is almost fully open. At WOT, the flapper door got down to 2.7%. 0% = fully open, 100% = fully closed. This might make tuning a little more tricky to make sure that part throttle acceleration is not sacrificed in my tuning. I plan to do the following:

-tighten the AFM a few clicks to possibly give me a little more adjustability in the upper load points.

-Adjust the deflection (load) points on the SMT6. If I give myself more columns to tune at the higher load points, I should be able to better adjust between WOT and partial throttle. So instead of having 0%, 9%, 18%, 27%, etc., I would have maybe 2%, 6%, 10%, 15%, 21%, etc., and have fewer load points in the low load sections, since they are barely used except for idle really. Once I do my real tuning I will figure out what works best.

I also confirmed that a positive # on the analog (fuel) map REMOVES fuel, and a negative number ADDS fuel. I could tell this easily on the narrow band o2 sensor, as well as listening to the engine.

Lastly I did get a chance to play with the timing functions as well. This seems to work great. I played a little with advancing the timing at lower load/rpm points which seemed to work quite nicely. I did run into the problem of having too few load points at the upper load sections. But thats something I should easily be able to deal with once I begin wide band tuning with bigger injectors and more boost.

Anyways, just a quick update on how this device works. So far, I'm really happy with it! I can't wait to get to some real tuning. :D
 
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