1026 GT-Four Normal Body

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Corey

Active member
Just received my ORC clutch in the mail.

all i can say is SWEEEEEET. what a work of art.

The TO bearing is very odd. and looks very nice. about 2x the width of OEM.

Mine looks a bit different from the pics of Meurz' and Sikx' clutches.

I'll post up pics tomorrow. It came with flywheel bolts, lube, instructions (in japanese) and stickers. but no alignment tool :(

I test fitted it onto my tranny, and it slid on very easily.

Cant wait :)
 
Denver_whiteST185

Denver_whiteST185

New member
Corey Darling":q9u80acz said:
I'll post up pics tomorrow. It came with flywheel bolts, lub, instructions (in japanese) and stickers. but no alignment tool :(
Click to expand...

if you promise to send it back ASAP and cover shipping, i'll send you an alignment tool when you need it.
 
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gt4tified

New member
Corey Darling":6413w04b said:
Just received my ORC clutch in the mail.

all i can say is SWEEEEEET. what a work of art.

The TO bearing is very odd. and looks very nice. about 2x the width of OEM.

Mine looks a bit different from the pics of Meurz' and Sikx' clutches.

I'll post up pics tomorrow. It came with flywheel bolts, lub, instructions (in japanese) and stickers. but no alignment tool :(

I test fitted it onto my tranny, and it slid on very easily.

Cant wait :)
Click to expand...

I am soooo jealous of you right now. Congrats, man!
 
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Corey

Active member
Edit: Ted, you have PM

Thanks :) im really excited to see how it performs.

Its heavier than i was expecting. but I guess thats what 10 kg feels like lol. hard to beleive the stock clutch is 7 pounds heavier.

for those who are curious. Final total from rhdjapan...... $1120 shipped with duty to canada - fedex air mail took about 5 days - After over 1 month of waiting for them to ship.

I ordered it end of November. Based on the newspaper used to pad the the ORC box itself, in the larger box, they packaged it on the 15th of dec.

And it didnt ship till Jan 4. Arrived on the 9th.

its a good thing im still waiting on my exhaust manifold :twisted:
 
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Corey

Active member
I'm a bit worried about something though.

The TO bearing is pretty thick. I've also got the extended slave push rod.

Will this be too much? would the clutch fork even fit okay?
 
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darthripley

Moderator
get an Odyssey battery & that will drop about 30lbs of weight right there.

i would buy a boost gauge, even if just a cheapy one so you can see where you are rather than guessing, especially upgrading to the KO DP it's fun to see how much of a boost increase you get. :)
the stock one is absolutely worthless & is painfully slow to respond.

good luck with all the maintenance - you're gonna learn a lot in the process :)
 
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Corey

Active member
Here are those pics I promised.

First the Clutch :)

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Apparently ORC doesnt carry the "B strong" version of the cluches any more. Just "Standard" and "Standard Silent"
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The anti rattle springs. And the Disk that rests on them is different from Rene's clutch i think. His is round and smooth, where as this looks like a sprocket.
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Marks from the factory, guess i need to make sure i put it back together like that
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The Bearing

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Compared to OEM - Ill be using the ORC.
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And Now for some random pics of the parts strewn all over the shop.

My Ron Davis Rad and Speed Source line. I'm very pleased with the quality.

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Cheers

Corey
 
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Corey

Active member
Well, tonights the night. My friend and I will start ripping apart the engine bay.

I've alotted 1 week to get my list done. Hopefully the engine will be on the floor by tomorrow.

I'll be sure to take lots of pics. mainly to help me figure out how to put it back together, and to make some write ups :)

Corey
 
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Corey

Active member
Thanks, im already needing it.

So far tonight, draining fluids, removed rad, airbox, battery. and alt.
 
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Corey

Active member
Total Time so far: ~10 hours

Tonight I removed the bumpercover, the ecu harness (that was fun :roll: ) and midpipe - holy shit is that thing heavy. wasnt expecting that when it fell on top of me lol. and the vacumme lines outlined in the bgb.

Still need to get the heater hoses off. their clips are being very stubburn. if they are cheap enough, i may just call toyota and ask them to get me some new ones, and ill cut these off.

I noticed that the one section of air intake pipe that is clamped onto the turbo has a small crack in it. noticably if i flex the pipe a bit. I dont think its a clean through cut, but needs to be replaced, guess ill be buying a new one of those.

Tomorrow: Drive shafts, prop shaft - entire thing i think - this winter has been brutal on my car for rust. all my rear subframe and suspension has signs of rust. something it didnt have a couple months ago :x
And i still have to remove the a/c pump from the engine and hang it from somewhere.

If im feeling motivated, i may extend my project to remove all the sub frame, and paint it with por 15.

Hopefully tomorrow, ill have the engine out :)

And while im at work tomorrow, ill post up some pics of my progess thus far

Corey
 
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Corey

Active member
DenverwhiteST185 Wrote
Corey Darling wrote:
I'll post up pics tomorrow. It came with flywheel bolts, lub, instructions (in japanese) and stickers. but no alignment tool
Click to expand...

if you promise to send it back ASAP and cover shipping, i'll send you an alignment tool when you need it.
Click to expand...

Hey Ted, Sry, i thought you were talking about the clutch lol. I just re-read it.

That would be great. you've got PM
 
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Corey

Active member
Some pics. The rest i took are just some general ones of all the vacuume lines and connectors before i disconnected them, so i know where they go back :)

Here's my SwainTech coated manifold

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And some of the car where i left off last night.

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I've got the back wheels of the car up on blocks, that way, i can lift the front of the car up by the bumper with the engine hoist, and it will be more stable than if the rear was on jackstands.

Something I realized once I got those screw-out clips off the underside of the bumper cover which hold the under side of the cover to the actual beam.... (stupid clips, you'd think they would at least make them a phillips head or something :roll: ).... well, they dont have anywhere to go once the RC bumper bar is in - perhaps a good excuse to get an rc bumper lol

If im going to get my current one filled and painted, for an estimated 300-400 bucks, might as well get the new bumper, and just get them to paint it for the same cost.

I was hoping to keep the original look though, that bumper is starting to grow on me, especially with the plate off. That and ill lose my JDM tyte yellow fogs :(

Corey
 
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