Just installed the aluminum rear diff cushion from Mario

BriinumsBo

New member
Hello there!
Today I installed Mario`s bushings (all).
I needed them because the rear end was swinging at low speeds - try to go slowly with first gear, rapidly press and release the gas pedal - my car would heavily swing back and forward with interval of 0.5 second like 5 to 10 times. I guess it was because of worn out crossmember bushings :/ I had no clunking noise when switching gears or accelerating hard or dropping gas rapidly at midrange speeds (this usually is because of the differential cushion worn out)
After changing all the crossmember bushings, it got terribly worse. now I DO get the clunking noise from diff when switching gears. The car is still swinging, but not that hard as before. But there are loud clunks from the sides of the car, i guess from the big crossmember bushings :roll: Mostly from the left side, when I accelerate hard, it really pisses me off. while the subframe was off, I checked the big bolts that are hanging from the chassis and going through the big bushings - the bolts have about 2inches of track to travel back and forward through the chassis. They also can rotate. is it normal?
I must admit I didnt do the job myself, maybe the guys at service didnt torqe the bolts enough :shrug:
I haven`t been yet to service to re-align the wheels.
For the clunking noise - I`ll try to get some polyutherane and fill the old cushion and probably replace the aluminium, we have TERRIBLE roads here ..
Before that i`ll just get another lift and try the bolts, maybe they are loose :/

P.S. I havent seen the worst, since I just rebuild the engine - when I say accelerating hard, I dont cross 3000rpm..
 

st185-sainz

New member
maybe you try the following:

jack up the whole rear and try at the wheels for plays in the suspension,
try to retorque the 4 crossmember bolts (but take care not to damage them!)

ask the guys who installed the bushings if they had tight fit into the crossmember!
have a look if they are installed correctly!

mario
 

BriinumsBo

New member
So lifted the car today. all bolts tight. Tried to drive while lifted, rapidly releasing clutch and found the the devil that makes the noize - there is clearance between bushing sides and subframe part.

These are the bushings:


This is not my subframe in the picture, i couldnt take pictures so this is for example:


when accelerating, the differential tries to go down at the rear and moves the front of the subframe 1mm up and down over the middle of the bushing.

Im not sure what is wrong. possibly:
1) the bushing middle (thinner part) is too long;
2) the inner metal tube of the bushing is longer than the bushing and the top of the bushing separates from the bottom
3) while driving around with the old bushings, the top and bottom of the subframe piece may have been damaged over time and the sides dont reach far enough enymore. its pretty rusted there, but not sure if THAT much :/
4) bushings installed upside down? dont think so, but i`ll check again..

while the old diff cushion will be refilled with polyutherane, we thought we should put some hard polymer rubber rings between the subframe and the bushing, not sure when, credit maxed out and wallet is totally empty :D if i had a garage and a lifter i`d do it on my own, but i have none :(
 

BriinumsBo

New member
ok, so the guys at service finally did something right :D
they did a bit sanding on the bushings to shorten them a little and put rubber rings (DIY) on both sides between the subframe and bushing, so any movement up and down is somewhat absorbed. I guess the clearance developed from hard driving while on the old rusted-out bsubframe bushings..
I chose to put back the old rubber diff cushion to somewhat prevent vibration and movement transfer to the subframe. The rear is so rusty that i chose to do better for the chassis and subframe than to differential. i hit at least one 20cm deep hole on the road every day (its THAT terrible here) so i have to think twice about stiffening rear.
if anyone is interested, i can send the aluminium cushion, im not sure how much should i ask for it - shipping plus smth symbolic :D
sometime later this year, when summer comes back I will remove the old cushion and fill it with polyutherane. I wanted to do this during the 3 weeks while the aluminum cushion was in, but I couldnt find liquid urethane anywhere here. I HATE EUROPE! I gave the bushing to some guys to fill it, but they sent it back after 2 weeks with saying that there is nothing on the bushing frame for the urethane to attach to. Idiots. and they refused to tell me where they get the urethane. So if you know an online shop that ships internationally, please help me out? :)
Still I feel a lot of movement in the rear of the car, but no more noises, yay!
 

BriinumsBo

New member
after 2 days some clunks returned. i checked the chassis - they put the rubber between bushing and chassis, not between bushing and subframe. f***in idiots. this way the bolts can get some movement per the rubber and get loose over time. tightened the bolts, no result, still no idea what makes the clunks, usually, when i`m accelerating hard while doing left turn.. i think the clunks will return even louder when i put new diff cushion in, since im using the old one now..
the long bolts (for the biggest bushings in front) could be moved around and rotated easily, and some guy told me they shouldnt. i guess it has some iron plate on top that keeps it perpendicular. maybe since there is some movement allowed because of the ruber the bold swings some degrees and the top plate makes noise against the chassis part ?
 

BriinumsBo

New member
Dano":2t60is75 said:
Well my Toyota dealer installed it and charged me 3.8 hours labour, but it includes installing the urethane bushings that come with Mario's kit and 4 rubber support bushings. Great product Mario! Thanks.

what do you mean by "4 rubber support bushings" ?

i was on trackday today, so pretty much pushing the limits of the car. no clunks on track, as the surface is straight, no bumps or holes. was a small clunk on first corner, but the rest of driving was quiet, about 3+3+2 minutes of hard driving. driving on the highway does make some clunking when over bumps. there is no normal roads here. one guy suggested it could be driveshaft bearing or even strut, but it seems like there are more kinds of clunks - one from the subframe, one from the worn out rubber bushing, and maybe one from the center bearing :/
i`ll get some pictures sometime soon.
 

lumbercis

Moderator
If there is a toyota specialist within driving distance of you (NOT a dealership) it might be worthwhile to take it them and ask them to diagnose your suspension problems. You are right that you may have more than one thing going on if your suspension parts are seriously worn.

A good place to start is to get under there with a flashlight and look around for any obvious signs of wear. Look to see if any other bushings are dried and cracked. Check the strut mounts. Then get a wrench on every bolt you can get to and make sure it is tight.

J.
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
st185-sainz":272vd9sw said:
wasn't watching the forum for some time but it is very interesting how people get to know about me and the diff cushion.

Thanks to everybody who wrote my address and gave me a good reputation!

mario



Mario... guys...

I'm trying just now to replace the subframe bushings with Mario's ones but I just saw that top bushing height is very different!


abcd0004b.jpg



Is it normal ?!
Solutions?

Thanks in advance...
 

deecee

New member
Celica_Subframe_Bushings_Wolf.jpg


Celica_Subframe_Bushings_Wolf2.jpg


Help? There is a rubber cushion on top of the subframe bushing you have to replace with the nylon bushing
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
DeeCee":1nxv092i said:
Celica_Subframe_Bushings_Wolf.jpg


Celica_Subframe_Bushings_Wolf2.jpg


Help? There is a rubber cushion on top of the subframe bushing you have to replace with the nylon bushing


Mate, 52282 is the spacer for the 2 REAR DIFF front bushings,as you can see from the pics you posted.

But, as I wrote, I was talking about, and my pic is referring to, the REAR SUBFRAME:
so we are talking about 52272!
And mine, ST205 stock, seems to be much thicker... even because it doesn't seem, to me, to be a rubber cushion over the bushing, but one piece.

Thanks.
 

deecee

New member
Apologies, was in a rush yesterday. No matter though.

Maybe it installs bottom up? How thick is the other piece to the bushing?

I only ask as the EPC shows mounting from bottom up.

Celica_Subframe_Bushings_Wolf1.jpg
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
DeeCee":35civxzw said:
Apologies, was in a rush yesterday. No matter though.


No problem Mate!


Maybe it installs bottom up? How thick is the other piece to the bushing?


Same thing... Mario's cap has the same thickenss of the Mario's cup I showed in the pic...

Thanks.
 

Gary ST165

New member
i think marios 4 x nylon rear subframe bushings are copied from the ST185...

the ST205 does indeed have a thicker rubber stopper!
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
Discovered!

The higher ST205 spacer is due to a steel disc drowned in the rubber:
that's why I thought a one piece of rubber!

I suppose I have to remove/clean the steel disc from the rubber part and re-use it over Mario's bushings...

Really hope he will chime in! :D
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
DeeCee":2t2i9hna said:


Hi,

I searched ANYWHERE in the 2 ST205 Toyota books I own, but I didn't find the correct torque for the 4 rear subframe bushings' nuts ( 90179-12045 ) and the 2 differential subframe front bushings' nuts ( 90179-12099)...

anyone knows?

Thanks...
 

Wolf_Tm250

New member
DeeCee":39mq3bl3 said:
these ones help? From the ST205 big green book.

Wolf_Suspension_Torque_Setttings.jpg


Thanks DeeCee... but I have this book, and there are not the torque settings required...

Neither in the Green, nor in the blue book... very strange !!!
 
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