This is a tutorial I wrote a while back. Please note that there are a lot of New Zealand references.
I advise you to find out what is required for a battery relocation from your local authorities and adapt this tutorial to suit.
Cheers,
DC
Introduction:
Okay folks, much waited upon as I never seem to be able to find the time or patience to write this thing out.
I'm going to go short and sweet in my explanations but i'm sure that its all there.
Notes:
1) If you are going to move your battery, talk to your local Warrent of Fitness person / mechanic. Generally as long as you explain what you want to do and the steps you will take to achieve this safely then you will be fine.
When I went for my warrent of fitness after relocating the battery, I alerted the WOF officer of the relocation, and explained to him what I did and how I did it to ensure that he understood that I did it safely. After I noted the welding of seperate bolts to the boot floor, safe routing of wires and fusing on the cable, he said that it was done well and care was taken to do it properly.
2) Ensure that you use the appropriate wire guage and appropriate fusing. This is to ensure safety if failure in cable/battery/overall electrical system occurs.
3) follow the current to gauge chart to assess your wire requirements.
unfortunately there is no defined rule for doing this - i always say minimum 2ga wire and preferably 1ga with with at least a 150A fuse on the cable.
4) take all safety precautions in relocating your battery. I take no responsibility for your actions based on my tutorial. It acts as a guide only. If you are not confident in your abilities seek professional help to relocate your battery.
Supplementary:
This information was supplied to me (sorry if i can't remember who supplied it to me, I deleted the PM. If it was you, could you please contact me and I will acknowledge your contribution.
From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations:
From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations Manual:
-> Regulations -> Manual 33 -> Appendix 2 -> Schedule A.
Equipment Required:
- Craft Knife
- Screwdrivers
- Cable cutters
- Socket set
- Wiring: 4ga and 1ga
- Wire terminals: 4ga and 1ga
- Battery Terminals
- Distribution Block
- Large Fuse and fuse holder (in this case a 250A ANL)
- Plastic split loom
- Electrical tape
- Battery brace
- Battery box
Optional:
- 1 gauge lugs
- heat shrink
- nut and bolt (8 - 10mm thread diameter)
I advise you to find out what is required for a battery relocation from your local authorities and adapt this tutorial to suit.
Cheers,
DC
Introduction:
Okay folks, much waited upon as I never seem to be able to find the time or patience to write this thing out.
I'm going to go short and sweet in my explanations but i'm sure that its all there.
Notes:
1) If you are going to move your battery, talk to your local Warrent of Fitness person / mechanic. Generally as long as you explain what you want to do and the steps you will take to achieve this safely then you will be fine.
When I went for my warrent of fitness after relocating the battery, I alerted the WOF officer of the relocation, and explained to him what I did and how I did it to ensure that he understood that I did it safely. After I noted the welding of seperate bolts to the boot floor, safe routing of wires and fusing on the cable, he said that it was done well and care was taken to do it properly.
2) Ensure that you use the appropriate wire guage and appropriate fusing. This is to ensure safety if failure in cable/battery/overall electrical system occurs.
3) follow the current to gauge chart to assess your wire requirements.
unfortunately there is no defined rule for doing this - i always say minimum 2ga wire and preferably 1ga with with at least a 150A fuse on the cable.
4) take all safety precautions in relocating your battery. I take no responsibility for your actions based on my tutorial. It acts as a guide only. If you are not confident in your abilities seek professional help to relocate your battery.
Supplementary:
This information was supplied to me (sorry if i can't remember who supplied it to me, I deleted the PM. If it was you, could you please contact me and I will acknowledge your contribution.
From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations:
From the Motorsport New Zealand Regulations Manual:
-> Regulations -> Manual 33 -> Appendix 2 -> Schedule A.
(3) Batteries:
(a) All batteries shall be securely mounted and have the live terminal adequately covered,
(b) Batteries located in the cockpit shall;
(i) Be mounted on a flat metal base, and
(ii) Have two insulated metal clamps affixed by a minimum of 8 mm (ISO 8.8) bolts and nuts in combination with underfloor counter plates, and
(iii) For ‘wet cell’ batteries an independently attached leak-proof box vented to the vehicle exterior is required.
(iv) For a sealed “dry cell” (i.e.: may be fitted in any orientation, without any loss of fluid) may be mounted in the cockpit without a leak proof box.
Equipment Required:
- Craft Knife
- Screwdrivers
- Cable cutters
- Socket set
- Wiring: 4ga and 1ga
- Wire terminals: 4ga and 1ga
- Battery Terminals
- Distribution Block
- Large Fuse and fuse holder (in this case a 250A ANL)
- Plastic split loom
- Electrical tape
- Battery brace
- Battery box
Optional:
- 1 gauge lugs
- heat shrink
- nut and bolt (8 - 10mm thread diameter)