SMT-6 installed!

3sgte4me":3hkiqnjv said:

How do you know what to set the voltages to ? ie 4.2 or 3.2 or 5 or ??

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you kno wby the type of maf/afm....in our case our mafs read 0v at full fuel (so your upper fuel limit is 0 ) while your lower limit is 5v.
This is because our cars have reversed (for some reason) polarity air flow sensors.

Now what that does is make the smt6/7 NOT go above or below those set voltages because it will set a fault in your ecu if your modification takes you beyond those limits (the stock ecu does not know what 5.5v is as an example)

Jhull's problem sounds very much like the problem im having. I have a Haltech E6X and the signal does seem weak, rather than buy the MSD I bought haltechs equivilant an RA8 or reluctor adaptor, which does the same as the msd in that it converts the analogue synware to a more flat digital waveform. Theres me thinking it would solve my problems............
nope, rpm signal still fluctuates on occasion. Here is a post I made on the Haltech forum:http://p210.ezboard.com/fhaltechdiscussionforumfrm1.showMessage?topicID=1092.topic

Anyone got any suggestions?? Its difficult now as the peeps on the board are starting to slag each others products off and its not really helping my problem!

J

chris i was ging to ask you if you have run out of afm range. i see you have.

have you managed to fix the problem yet?

roger

furpo":1i2mntew said:

chris i was ging to ask you if you have run out of afm range. i see you have.

have you managed to fix the problem yet?

roger

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Not yet. After I get my car set up and tuned with a wide band, the next step is to convert to MAP using the SMT6. This allows me a great deal of extra adjustability. Here are my very initial readings from the AFM and MAP sensor from my greddy boost gauge.


AFM signal --- MAP signal

2.8 V --- 1.0 V (idle)
___ V --- 1.9 V (0 psi)
___ V --- 2.6 V (0.5 kg/cm2)
___ V --- 2.7 V (0.6 kg/cm2)
~0 V --- 3.7 V (1.3 kg/cm2)
~0 V --- 4.6 V (2.0kg/cm2)

Hey Chris,

There are probably multiple posts asksing for your advice but this one is asking for an update on the smt6 setup.

How is it going and are you happy with it or considering going with something else?

3sgte4me":3czz3raa said:

Hey Chris,

There are probably multiple posts asksing for your advice but this one is asking for an update on the smt6 setup.

How is it going and are you happy with it or considering going with something else?

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I'm really happy with it. I haven't driven my car much on it since because I don't drive it in the winter, but it has been great thus far. Right now I am planning to use it to help me tune for quite a bit more power. I am also going to use it to convert to MAP from the AFM. The only thing else I would possibly consider is the SMT7, since it does the MAP conversion pretty much automatically for you.

Anyways, yep I'm really happy with it thus far!

chris_dittrick":2oasylka said:

-Adjust the deflection (load) points on the SMT6. If I give myself more columns to tune at the higher load points, I should be able to better adjust between WOT and partial throttle. So instead of having 0%, 9%, 18%, 27%, etc., I would have maybe 2%, 6%, 10%, 15%, 21%, etc., and have fewer load points in the low load sections, since they are barely used except for idle really. Once I do my real tuning I will figure out what works best.

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It's been a while now, so have you been able to scale the analog table to increase the resolution at higher loads (moving idle load cell towards the right in the table)? :wink:

I have not done any tuning, however scaling the maps is very easy and Ive played with that quite a bit. Currently I am having issues getting rid of electrical interference from my power windows. Once that is fixed, I am ready to tune. The MAP conversion will be among the first things to be done, along with possibly swapping to larger injectors. I hope to resolve the issue very soon because summer will be over before I know it!

ok, sounds good about the scaling of the map then

Chris! Hey there buddy. Long time no see. I'm researching engine management recently and have been looking in to the SMT-7 a lot over an EMS......anyway. Question about whats going on in your screen shots. You only rev up to a little over 3k, but I'm obviously guessing that you're only partial throttle since your AFR gets 14.9 at the richest. Is there a way to tell how much throttle you're giving it?

I'm guessing that "Load deflection" % has something to do with it, but I'm not sure what that is.....

btw, how come you haven't played with tuning it at all yet? Thanks a lot buddy

Spud":1abf69ga said:

Chris! Hey there buddy. Long time no see. I'm researching engine management recently and have been looking in to the SMT-7 a lot over an EMS......anyway. Question about whats going on in your screen shots. You only rev up to a little over 3k, but I'm obviously guessing that you're only partial throttle since your AFR gets 14.9 at the richest. Is there a way to tell how much throttle you're giving it?

I'm guessing that "Load deflection" % has something to do with it, but I'm not sure what that is.....

btw, how come you haven't played with tuning it at all yet? Thanks a lot buddy

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Hey Ian!

Those screen captures were actually just me revving it in my driveway a bit. But yeah, if you watch the playback you can see the A/F cycling back and forth like it would normally doat idle/partial throttle. I have both a wide band and a narrow band o2 sensor doing the real monitoring for me though, so I should have a good handle on things.. I suppose I *could* output the signal from my wide band to the smt6, but I dont really need to.

The "Load deflection %" is basically the % of 5 volts that your AFM is seeing. For example, a value of 50% would mean the AFM is at 2.5 Volts. Ours read backwards, so a smaller percentage means that the AFM is more open and closer to 0V.

You can also use one of the wires (smt7 may have more than 1?) to input whatever voltage you want into the unit. So you could use the throttle position wire, boost, or whatever. I have mine set up to watch the MAP sensor so that I can compare the MAP to the AFM signal.

Ahh tuning...just keep running into one thing after another actually. At first I was waiting on my wideband to arrive which took a lot longer than expected. Then I was busy with school, graduating and all and got too busy to work on the car. Now I just got that installed but I'm having some electrical interference from my car which is really annoying. It appears that my power windows, once up or down but still receiving power for those few seconds, is distorting something which in turn messes with the signal to the SMT6. I haven't been able to filter it out yet but I am still trying. As soon as I can get that done I plan to do tuning for sure. I REALLY want to get moving on the map conversion, trust me!

Here is something cool for you to check out from a Mazda board. They use something called an MPI tuner, which is identical to the SMT6 with some very slight changes to be compatible with their vehicles. If you look at the screen captures, you can check out what the map conversion process looks like. With the SMT7 this process is done automatically.

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96397

Here's a capture of me going WOT but only revving to probably 4000rpm. It shows the AFM going wide open there as soon as I hit the throttle basically.



Here are some caps I just stole from one of my logs just for you to take a look at. The thing called "Amp input V" is my MAP sensor voltage.

cool......thanks very much for posting those screen shots. The whole tuning thing interests me very much.....and as I do more power mods from where I'm not now it's something that is necissary. I'm going to wait on buying the SMT-7 until I see how more people are doing with it, since there's not a whole lot of experience in the 3s community yet......

Spud":12uo48jf said:

cool......thanks very much for posting those screen shots. The whole tuning thing interests me very much.....and as I do more power mods from where I'm not now it's something that is necissary. I'm going to wait on buying the SMT-7 until I see how more people are doing with it, since there's not a whole lot of experience in the 3s community yet......

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No prob. Gives you an idea what the playback feature is like. I also love to load the logs in excel, and graphing that. Only problem is that you have a graph that is the entire width of an excel spreadsheet to get good resolution! (the max allowed)

Hopefully a few more people get on with the group buy Johnny has going. It's tough since there's only a couple people running these systems on their 3s. I've had to do a shwack of trouble shooting since there werent any really good diagrams or anything when I first started.

Right now Im just dealing with the funky ST165 electrical system. :twisted:

Hi guys,old thread i know but i am now trying to install a smt6 and i allso have the RPM signal problem (getting the message : Error:RPM-Bad)
I've tried the PerfectPower wiring diagram using 2 signals for ignition (IGT and IGF) with Mode 12,also I've tried using only IGT as stated in your diagram (however i did not used the 1k resistor),but with no luck whatsoever !
Problem is the car wont start ! If i leave the ignition/rpm wiring out of the equation (piggy only cuts trough MAF) it's OK,car start's OK,i have deflection signal (TPS) but lack rpm.
How did you solve the problem ?

P.S. In the end i think i will only sniff RPM and leave the ignition/advace tuning alone,only mooding the fuel like a normal piggyback does ! It is annoying,knowing you can do the ignition but not be able to :lol:


I've modified the diagram to the 1st gen wiring :

hmm...my memory of this install is really foggy at this point. ive since moved on to a full standalone.

I remember having issues on the initial install/set up, but I honestly do not remember how I resolved it. There was a bit of trial and error involved...I would install the resistor first and give that a try.



But remember, when you use it to adjust fuel - it is adjusting airflow, which will place you in a different place on the stock map, automatically changing your timing as well.

From what I remember from my install ( years ago ), it requires the resistor or else it doesn't work.


Gabe