st205 into st185 swap faq/ and parts compatibility

CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I still have not resolved code 54. I hooked up the mr2 ecu, and it does not start. I have a feeling I am going to have to mess with the harness more to get the mr2 ecu to work... so I will most likely sell it and go back to the drawing board with the code 54.

EDIT: BTW I meant 5psi. Not 8psi.

The car still pulls pretty well concidering.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Here are a few videos.

The first one is starting to car cold.

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p136 ... I_4766.flv

The second is an odd thing the idle does for a little bit. This goes away once its been warmed up and driven some. Might be a vac hose issue.

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p136 ... I_4767.flv

This is a quick video of a test drive.

http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p136 ... neswap.flv

I max out at 5psi. The wife says the car feels faster than the Z. It does feel quick, but that might not mean that it is quick. I am hoping that the code 54 is the cause of this. I am going to try and sort it out and see if the boost goes up to stock afterwards. If it runs like this on 5psi... I can only imagine what 15 psi will be like.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Any info where this hose I outlined in red goes?

vachoseuz9.jpg
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I think thats my problem. Its post turbo to the IC. During idle, the rcv is so responsive it makes the idle flutter as it builds blows off.

So I think I will just tap a T into an intake line.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
The new ecu fixed my problems. I think I still have some vaccum hose gremlins. On the way home, my idle started acting wierd and I was unable to reach max boost anymore. So I think a hose popped off.

I have some other things to attend to, then I will get back to the car. Got a major Power steering leak, and need an alignment too.

Its almost done.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Alright. I decided to do a test and it worked.

I bridged fp & b+ with a paper clip and used electrical tape to hold it in to force the pump to go into high mode.

I can hear the pump now, where I could not before.

I also added ~97 octane fuel to an empty tank.

It returned to its previous self.

It could boost to 10psi for a bit, then 5psi and back to 10 for a drive.

So, this tells me the pump is not bad. But the pump is staying in low mode. I am using the st185 relays and coilpack. So, is there any other factor that controls the fuel pump?

I wonder if I need the st205 coilpack.

That could be the problem the entire time.

Suggestions?
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
So, I am still trying to get my swap 100% right.
I am getting a code 23, which is supposed to be related to THAM.
At least I think I have it wired right. I am using the sensor with a plug that has the same color combination for wires as listed in the 185 bgb diagram.

My vac is 17-19. So I do not think my vac is 100% right. I expected 21hg.

The car runs good, but starts pulling boost above 10psi.

I also get a slight dip in idle after getting off the gas.

Anyone w/ a 3rd gen live near by?
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
I found my code 23 issue. I have a harness extension at the ecu that I can use to tap my emange into.

I found that I had a wire in the wrong place. Resolved the issue though. Moved the wire, code 23 is gone.

Now I have a code 31. and my vac is low as well. ~15hg.

Code 31 is an open or short in vac sensor.
Good lord, what could that mean now.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Alright. So I thought about everything I changed. I also plugged the egr wire back into the ecu.
So I unplugged the egr wire and the code changed.

Now when I go into diagnostics mode, the light constantly flashes rapidly. It never stops. So I decided to let it warm up then do a test drive. It got to 16hg on vac while idling.

When I drove it, at first it hardly pulled at all.
If any at all. After driving it around ~7 minutes it started pulling boost again over 10psi.
So I parked it and now the vac is at 19hg.
So it does drive better for a bit, but I obviously have some more issues to sort out.
 
3

3sgte4me

New member
You may be well ahead of the curve on this install. And as such you're figuring out all of the gremlins and how to fix them. 8)

Im following the posts, and frankly..Im impressed.

Im curious how this might all work out in a st165 :D
 
S

scothaniel

New member
Wow, this thread started in back Sept 05. I feel for you Coldiron, you've been working on this project for almost 2 years now - I'm sure you've got to be pretty frustrated.


The 205 injector coil pack has the same resistance as the 185, the only difference is the pigtail. The 205 fuel pump resistor is also the same.

Your vac does sound low. I'm usually idling in the mid-20s, with vacuum overrun around 30hg.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Hey scott, see my project thread.

If I leave the car running for a bit and the engine bay gets hot, the car runs awesome.

I think what ever loose vac hoses there are, seal better once they are warm.

When I get free time, god knows when, I am going to park it in front of autozone and go through ever hose. I will buy any replacement hoses or clamps as I get to them and do a detailed inspection of the whole engine bay.

Its very close now. The wife has been saving $$ and as soon as its running perfect, she is getting me a new paint job. Oh, happy day.
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
Swap is pretty much done now. My last problem to figure out is to get the A/C working. Anyone have any tips on such? The clutch does not kick over on the compressor, so is there something different I need to hook up? I want to have the AC fixed come summer.
 
M

MR2 Guru

New member
3sgte4me":3stelfts said:
You may be well ahead of the curve on this install. And as such you're figuring out all of the gremlins and how to fix them. 8)

Im following the posts, and frankly..Im impressed.

Im curious how this might all work out in a st165 :D
Click to expand...

DSCF0144.JPG

DSCF0143.JPG

DSCF0140.JPG

DSCF0139.JPG

Yes, its WRC :)

DSCF0031.JPG

DSC00096.JPG

DSC00099.JPG


Swap Completed - 8/2006, finishing wiring and suspension and wheels - 6/2007, Daily Driving an ST205 WRC powered ST165 - Priceless!
 
CMS-GT4

CMS-GT4

Active member
A note to add for those who do a swap. Buy all new ignition parts. Plugs, wires, cap & rotor. Test your O2 sensor and buy 2 sets of plugs.

Use a set of cheap copper plugs for trouble shooting and testing then use what ever plugs you want after wards. I ruined a set of un-cheap plugs setting my car up.
 
A

aus jd 2703

New member
ok im a lil busy right now but i plan to read through all 15 pages but can some one give me a crash course on how to install an st205 ecu and engine in a 185? is it easier to use the 185 engine harness or the 205 engine harness? i was planning to use the 205 engine harnes but from what i read u guys are saying use the 185 harness with 205 ecu on a 205 engine?
engine is about to go in the car and if i have to change the engine loom id rather do it out the car as i have way more room.
cheers guys just looking for a summary before i read all 15 pages.
 
A

aus jd 2703

New member
quick question:
how do u wire the 205 alternator into the 185 harness? cheers guys its coming along well 185 loom is slowly getting ready for 205 engine still nt sure what to do but trying to get info.
did u guys use the 185 igniter or the 205 igniter with the 185 loom?
cheers guys
 
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