[How to] Rebuild the Powersteering pump.

ST185pinjo

New member
Because I had to refil my ps reservoir several times a year, I decided to rebuild it now the engine is out.

Rebuild-kit part nr: 04446-35050

This is what is in it.

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It's pretty straight foreward.

1. Get the big o-ring out. I used a screwdriver.

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2. Undo the bolt that holds the pully.

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I blocked the movement of the pully by using an socket extention.

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3. Get the pully of and take out the half circel.

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It is very important to take this out of the shaft(all the way). On my first attempt, the half circel fell out of the shaft after I rammed it through the pump body, leaving a useless body because of the deep scretch marks. These marks make turning the pump much more difficult, so I decided to get an other one. :oops:

Pic of the f*cked body.

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4. Gently tab the shaft out through the body. Keeping everything in place, so you know how to put it back.

The cover comes out first with the spring, you can lay that away. Then you will see the inside of the pump. Basicly a round piece of metal with a few lose blades in it. Looks pretty neat.

- Take of the cover and the spring(round metal).

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-Inside of the pump with blades.

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-whole assembly out of the housing, in the correct order.

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5. Once the whole shaft is out you will find 3 rubber rings in your rebuild kit. These go on the cover, the top and bottom of the pump.

Here I renewed the ring on the cover, you can see the older rings are flat.

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Do the other 2 rings next.

Caution in the rebuild kit there are 2 bags of rings. One holds one ring, the other holds 2 rings. The one ring is for the cover, the rings in the bag with two are for the black rings. The rings are the same dimentions, but different material.



6. Pry out the old gasket on the side of the pully on the housing.
I used some plyars to get it out.

I used some grease on the new gasket, that I had from installing my camseals. Place the new gasket on it's place and gently tab it in. I used a socket to get it in evenly.

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7. Get the shaft. At the short end is a o-ring holding the two parts on the shaft. There is a new one in the kit, so I raplaced it using some small screwdriver.

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8. Put some grease on the inside of the new gasket and reinstall the shaft with the two parts in place. Lube up the new rings with some ATF. Tab it in with a hamer and make sure the botom end of the pump sits on the housing.

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9. Reinstall all the blades. I placed them with the rounded side out, just the way they were when I opend it up.

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10. Reinstall the blade guide. Make sure you install it in the propper way. There are 4 holes on it. 2 round ones and on the other side one round one and one oval one. The oval one is used for the pin that is attached to the housing. On the opposit side of that pin, use a round one for the short pin that fixes the 3 parts togehter(bottom and top of pump, and the blade guid.

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Allign the top of the pump with the two pins. Make sure you use the wright pin for the holes. There is one round hole and one oval hole.

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Than tab it in with a hamer till it can go no further.

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11. Reinstall the spring.

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12. Reinstall the cover. Use some ATF to lube up the new ring. Tab it in with the back of a screwdriver, slightly further than the cutout the o-ring needs to go. Then install the o-ring and tab on the other side of the shaft to get it in position.

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13. Reinstall the pully and half circel.

Place the half circel in the shaft and place the pully over it. When the pully is silghtly in place, use some plyers to hold the half circel in place. Install the pully with some tabs.

You can now reinstall the bolt and the job is done.


There is also a brass piece with the kit. I didn't install this because;

- I could not get the old one out.

- The size of the pieces is different.

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The three rings left are for the hoses i quess, but I don't have them here.
 

coyoteboy

New member
Good write-up. I had the same problem a few years ago but managed to get away with buying o-ring in it's length form (rather than as a ring), cut and glue it together. It was just the rear seal that was faulty for me, and it's worked fine ever since.
 

Terracar

New member
After reviewing the part numbers, they appear to be different between the ST185 and ST165.

As for the process, I would assume they would be similar, but there may be variances between the two.

-Terracar
 

Jesse

New member
Good info! This helped me a lot when I rebuilt mine. I did find out what the small brass piece is that comes in the kit...as it fell out during re-assembly :p It sits in the bottom of the threaded hole where the air valve lives to seal its pressure fitting.
 

st185_cs

New member
Will this fix a pump with a whine sound or only leaks? My pump is making a whine noise, specially when the car is cold.
 

sosia

New member
st185_cs":1wtyykh7 said:
Will this fix a pump with a whine sound or only leaks? My pump is making a whine noise, specially when the car is cold.


my pump make a strange sound for only one or two day's...after never..:D
 

88gt4DE

Active member
st185_cs":2nmr4azc said:
Will this fix a pump with a whine sound or only leaks? My pump is making a whine noise, specially when the car is cold.


Mine makes noise when real cold too but goes away shortly after it warmed a little ...
 

st185_cs

New member
Mine doesnt stop making this sound, Its not audible when driving on the highway, but turning stopped or at low speeds make this noise. Its the typical low fluid level that makes the pump run with air, but the level is ok and the fluid was replaced less than 2 years ago.

A strange thing is that the service manual says that this car should use dexron II fluid, but my car has a green colour fluid (it was replaced in a official toyota dealer), but i havent seen a green dexron ii fluid in my entire life :shrug:

Do your car have green or red fluid?
 

88gt4DE

Active member
st185_cs":3dz442wx said:
Mine doesnt stop making this sound, Its not audible when driving on the highway, but turning stopped or at low speeds make this noise. Its the typical low fluid level that makes the pump run with air, but the level is ok and the fluid was replaced less than 2 years ago.

A strange thing is that the service manual says that this car should use dexron II fluid, but my car has a green colour fluid (it was replaced in a official toyota dealer), but i havent seen a green dexron ii fluid in my entire life :shrug:

Do your car have green or red fluid?

I'm running red Dextron fluid. I have also never seen green trans .... I would maybe try to dump the fluid and put red in it. Could be the issue. Easiest way to drain it is to pull the vac fitting out. May have to do it two of three times to get it fully flushed. Only thing you have to be careful with is the little flare apartor if it comes out when you pull the vac fitting off the pump ....
 

yyonline

Member
Great info! The pictures were a great help in rebuilding the power steering pump. A few things to add.

ST185pinjo":1mp1g964 said:
There is also a brass piece with the kit. I didn't install this because;

- I could not get the old one out.

- The size of the pieces is different.

16i9tab.jpg

This brass seat goes between the housing and the vacuum switch port on the bottom of the pump.

ST185pinjo":1mp1g964 said:
The three rings left are for the hoses i quess, but I don't have them here.

The 3 leftover o-rings go in the following locations.

1. Between the fluid return port and the housing. Unbolt the return port, pull it out and there's a o-ring on the end of the port.
2. Between the pressure port and the housing. Unbolt the pressure port and there's an o-ring on the end.
3. Around the inside hole of the front plate where the shaft passes through the hole in the plate. This one is really hard to see and almost stumped me until I looked at the service manual.

Tomorrow I get to wrestle the pump back into the car. That should be fun. :roll:
 
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