Using camber plates as caster plates?

TomsGT4

New member
esracing":1t0zdro7 said:
the bolt will give u enough camber the plates will do camber and caster at the same time. ok first make shure the plate are centerd then ajust the camber with the bolts then do the caster also u have to ceter the toe during this step

Thanks -thats what I was hoping to hear :)
 

MrDB

New member
Buy a digital spirit level. Place on ground and zero. You can then measure the angle of anything in relation to ground. Camber / caster etc...
 

Toxygene

Active member
Roundy":3nsc9yom said:
That is me :)

radiator006.jpg


gave me an extra 56' of caster, and using camber bolts to get the camber however my coilovers have the slotted holes as well, i had the camber bolts before that.

I have to say the difference to the handling was profound. It changed it to an oversteery beast!

It allowed me to soften the rear swaybar off and still be able to provoke oversteer from it.

Obviously there is more than just the caster that has done that, but that was the final change i made.

Now i don't know what more to do with it :shrug: i have the balance so from there i think i need to learn how to drive it a lot better :)

What are all the pieces that you are running for your suspension?
 

Roundy

New member
When you say all the pieces i am running on my suspension you mean what aftermarket i have installed??

Front:
Poly bushes
Stock strut brace
G4 Coilovers 7kg/mm spring rate.
1*56' Caster
-1*45' Camber
1mm toe in

Rear:
Stock trailing arm bushes (couldn't get the damn things off!)
Inner arm bushes poly
G4 Coilovers 4.5kg/mm spring rate
-0*45' Camber
2mm toe in
Whiteline rear strut brace
Whiteline rear swaybar set to the middle position.

That setup still had the car with steady state oversteer, but only a little.

I am about to change my coilover setup to inverted struts with 8kg/mm front 5kg/mm rear.

This means that i will be relatively softer at the rear hopefully reducing some of the understeer and allowing me to have the swaybar in the middle setting to have it balanced.

No idea if that will work, that is just my hopes LOL
 

grug

New member
K-MAC www.k-mac.com.au make a camber/caster plate for the ST185. 2 dimensional adjustablity so you can add plenty of positive caster as well as adjust camber. See website for details. They work with the factory strut.

To quote what I said in post "tighter steering":

grug":3a9v7hi9 said:
As per title they are made for the Celicas (including ST185) here in Australia by a suspension company called K-MAC (www.k-mac.com.au), which ship worldwide. The good thing about them is that they have fully adjustable caster as well as camber, being that they are two dimensionally adjustable.

They have 3 models, 1 street (stage 1) and 2 track (stage 2&3). I have a street set on my commodore and the quality seems excellent. I was very close to getting a set for my ST185, however the price for them is ridiculous $370 AU for the stage 1 and $465 for the stage 2 or 3 (plus shipping).
Instead I am going to order a full set of coilovers with the adjustable camber plate for the front.
 

mike325ci

New member
i, too, have joined the ranks of those using camber plates as caster plates. :)

Roundy, i see that you could have pushed it back further (more caster), but you didn't-- is it because the springs/strut cap is hitting the inside of your body?? I ran into this issue on my left side... Otherwise I was able to push it back to max caster and I've angled it to give me the max caster (the slot is longer towards the back of the car-- you'll see what you mean when you see my photos).

Photos/write-up on my project thread: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=22973&p=355694#p355694

Once I get my car back on the road (off the road now with the entire dash out to replace my heater core; I never wanna do that job ever again!! :x ), I'm going to get another alignment and I'll post up my specs.

My setup (fronts):
1) Whiteline Springs
2) Koni Sport (Yellow) shocks
3) Stock spring cap plate (not sure what to call this)
4) C-One Camber Plates
5) Toyota OEM 3-Dot Crash Bolts
6) KYB Strut Boot & Bumpstops

Warning/Note: Without touching anything else, but setting the caster/camber to max (pushed towards the back), the car will severely TOE IN. So please make note of this and have your car re-aligned if doing this job, or adjust it yourself slightly before driving.
 

MWP

New member
Toyota OEM 3-Dot Crash Bolts

So i gather these are the OEM form of aftermarket camber bolts?
Do they allow for as much adjustment as aftermarket camber bolts?

Does anyone have a Toyota part number so i can order a set?
 

alltracshoak

Active member
mike325ci":16dylodk said:
TraqFAQ link is broken, btw...

One more, cos it's obscure and can't really be looked up on any EPC:

Crash bolts (aka "Camber Bolts") for ST185:
Fronts:
90105-17005 for the 3-Dot (most camber adjustment, supposed to give +/- 0.75 degrees)
90105-17004 2-Dot (+/- 0.50 degrees)
90105-17003 1-Dot (least camber adjustment @ +/1 0.25 degrees)

Rears:
90105-15006 3-Dot
90105-15005 2-Dot
90105-15004 1-Dot
Nut for the bolt: 90179-15001

I prefer using Toyota crash bolts to aftermarket camber adjusting bolts because they are much more robust and thick, and not prone to slipping like the aftermarket ones. Using crash bolts in conjunction with camber plates will give you a lot of negative camber!
 

Roundy

New member
mike325ci":35vy3pid said:
Roundy, i see that you could have pushed it back further (more caster), but you didn't-- is it because the springs/strut cap is hitting the inside of your body?? I ran into this issue on my left side... Otherwise I was able to push it back to max caster and I've angled it to give me the max caster (the slot is longer towards the back of the car-- you'll see what you mean when you see my photos).

The picture i posted early was before adjustment.

Now they are sitting with 1 as far back as it will go, and the other isn't quite there. Main reason for this is that the fellow that did my wheel alignment made sure the caster was equal side to side.

Has anyone got any pics for those crush bolts???
 

gt4tified

New member
esracing":1z9vxv7y said:
the bolt will give u enough camber the plates will do camber and caster at the same time. ok first make shure the plate are centerd then ajust the camber with the bolts then do the caster also u have to ceter the toe during this step

I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to adjust the plates on top for caster and camber FIRST, and then go to the camber bolts to lock in an exact camber setting?
 

MWP

New member
gt4tified":22v4q1tj said:
I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to adjust the plates on top for caster and camber FIRST, and then go to the camber bolts to lock in an exact camber setting?

Yup, it would.
Infact if your using camber/crash bolts, you should rotate the tops so they only effect castor, dial those in first, then adjust camber with the bolts.
 

mike325ci

New member
MWP":2hyhmkww said:
gt4tified":2hyhmkww said:
I'm wondering if it wouldn't make more sense to adjust the plates on top for caster and camber FIRST, and then go to the camber bolts to lock in an exact camber setting?

Yup, it would.
Infact if your using camber/crash bolts, you should rotate the tops so they only effect castor, dial those in first, then adjust camber with the bolts.

...except that we have only 3 bolts in the front, so they cannot be rotated 90 degrees, only 120 degrees, so you will always adjust caster and camber at the same time with a standard camber plate (i.e. not Noltec-type ones).
 

MWP

New member
mike325ci":5qtyelax said:
...except that we have only 3 bolts in the front, so they cannot be rotated 90 degrees, only 120 degrees, so you will always adjust caster and camber at the same time with a standard camber plate (i.e. not Noltec-type ones).

Its called drilling and 3 new high-tensile bolts :)
Itll be a 5min job.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Bumping this up. I've got camber plates for both cars but I'm liking this idea of using them to adjust caster instead. I don't want to go too crazy with the camber, especially on my DD< to keep the tire wear normal so will I need to order these "crash bolts" to dial the camber back a bit, or do Celicas come with these stock?
 

Mafix

New member
you can get them at any parts store. just call them cam bolts instead of crash bolts. the 5th gen does not have them while the preface lift 4th gens do.

here is my setup...and yes i work at a shop so alignments are free
IMAG0037-1.jpg

IMAG0038-1.jpg
 

underscore

Well-known member
Cool, thanks. Is there anything special I need to tell them to get the right bolts? Or just cam bolts for a Celica?
 
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