[How to] Solid fill your engine mounts

tw2

New member
Why? Reduce the backwards and forwards engine movement during acceleration and changing gear giving a much more sudden, predictable and solid feel. The stock mounts are alright but they are fairly pathetic. You can move the centre around quite easily with your hand on one of them i think it is the front one.

Why not? Increased vibration from the engine will be felt and stuff might shake around more in the cabin. The front and rear ones are the ones which take the forces, the side engine mounts hold the engine up so there is nothing to gain except even more vibration by filling them too.
Enginemount1.jpg

Options- speedsource mounts, make solid metal mounts (not that I have tried but I wouldn't recommend this for a street car), kirkosaurus polyurethane inserts or solid fill them like I have done.

Solid filling them is similar to the poly inserts except it totally fills every small gap and sets so is a lot more sturdy and hopefully long lasting. I used a polyurethane putty. They are also available in liquid form but as you can imagine that is not the easiest thing to work with.
Enginemount2.jpg

Hardness is a good measure of material measured on the shore A scale from 3 to 95. There are 3 scales I think; A for soft stuff- shoe soles, rubber crap, D scale for things over shore A 90 and 00 scale for stuff under shore A 5. There is also an industrial scale. Kirk inserts are 85 shore. The stuff I used cures to 87 shore so it is pretty hard. You can just make a small depression pushing your fingernail in as hard as possible. Any material from 65-90 will be a good choice depending on how hard and hence how much movement and vibration you want, obviously with it being a trade off between the 2. Solid filling will appear to be much firmer than inserts with the same hardness.

I used "Flexane 80" made by Devcon. It is supposedly very reistant to vibration and tearing making it a good choice for this purpose.
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyprodu ... milyid=152

This simply consisted of mixing up the putty following the instructions and spooning it into cleaned and dried mounts. I used various metal instruments to ensure it was pushed in properly and in contact with all the surfaces inside. I would recommend anyone make a small cardboard circle and use it on one side to keep all the material in until it sets properly as it slowly seeps out. I didn't do this since I thought it would be a lot more solid to work with.
Enginemount3.jpg

I did this since ordering stuff from the US is a pain in the ass for me hence I otherwise would have just ordered some kirk inserts. This way was slightly more expensive, made a huge mess as can be seen by the newspaper stuck to them and looks like crap. Of course they are very very firm and will probably work really well. Unfortunately i did not get a chance to take a pic on unfilled mounts so if someone could post some it would be great.
 

88st165

New member
i have done this and three years later the mounts are holding up just fine... the only difference was i used construction adhesive (polyurethane) from home depot that comes in a tube to use in a caulk gun so it makes it alot less messy... also i used tinfoil tape on one side so it would not run out and make a mess...

i swear there was a writeup on celicatech and thats what i went by... its a pretty good method if you are on a tight budget... i actually just filled a diff cusion and im going to test it to see how its going to work (why not try if it will save me $120 from toyota) ...
 

gt4tified

New member
I did the same a few months ago and my engine likes it! I also bought the 3M cannister stuff and taped both sides with cardboard and masking tape so it was much neater...but who cares as long as it works! :wink:
 

Speed-Source

New member
Just an FYI, our Speed-Source mounts are not solid metal mounts...

We have designed polyurethane replacement mounts, with metal spools that go through the center of the mount (for the bolt). Here is a pic

polymount2.jpg


We also have a convex endform design, to reduce the vibrations that are transmitted into the cabin.

Just clarifying that - from the original post.
 

tw2

New member
Sorry I guess I didn't make that clear, I meant your mounts were option 1 and sold metal was another option etc.
 

Hotrodhendrix

New member
I did this a few weeks ago and the liquid is the easiest to work with and comes out the best.

Ready engine mounts by a very intense cleaning.

Place foil on one side with tape around the edges. Make sure there is no holes for the urethane to leak threw.

Lay the mount down with open side up.

Mix your filler

Pour in and let it sit flat until filler hardens.

This will give the mounts a much cleaner look.
 

Carolina91GT-S

New member
Speed-Source":3rt8symz said:
We also have a convex endform design, to reduce the vibrations that are transmitted into the cabin.

I know it would be difficult to do effectively in a BB post but could you quantify how much the vibrations are reduced? is it close at all to the vib level without any kind of inserts or filling?
 

celica_gtx

New member
i did this awhile back ago to my front one only..
didnt get around to doin the rest...


the urathane i use came ina cockin gun type.
but if your goin to do this it get messy and sticky!!!
and looks blotchy..

i found a easy way of smoothing out the urathane..
ice cubes...
no joke...
best way i found to move it around and smooth it out if
looks stock...
 

Rick89GTS

New member
celica_gtx":2amiqk0z said:
.....i found a easy way of smoothing out the urethane..
ice cubes...
no joke...
best way i found to move it around and smooth it out if
looks stock...
Brilliant!
 

klue

New member
the mineral spirits are the recommend thinners so that should work good too.

problem A - your using the black roofing urethane?! that stuff is too soft, your not making any difference by using this stuff, more cosmetic than anything, it is much softer than the stock rubber, and stays semi soft even when cured.

what you want to use is the one that dries white ish, its called polyurethane ADHESIVE. I have found this stuff to be much much harder!

either way you need to check up on the mounts after a while. I have had some crack and chip away after some track work and hot cold winter summer cycling.

Now we use *** for out mounts and no longer use urethane.

Still it is a great way to fix and strengthen the mounts for under 10 bucks !!
 

klue

New member
dups, you can get the stuff at rona.
its called polyurethane adhesive, its in a yellow tube.
I could tell you the exact one but id have to see it to identify,
 
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