Project CMS

Nice wheels. Simple design.

So with a 205 caliper on a rav4 spindle there is 16-18mm from the top of the rav4 rotor to the top of the 205 brake pad as a rough estimate. Rav4 rotor is 302mm. So bolted to a rav4 spindle it seems that a 330mm rotor will fit without even needing to make a bracket. I am really busy, but I want to go back and double check my measurements if I have time. This could end up working out better than I expected.

So I have been thinking about seat covers. I have leather now, but I like the idea of going cloth. I noticed on toyodiy.com the seat cover is listed separate from the seat. So there is a chance I can get a black cloth for my rear seats, and it will better match if I upgrade my front seats.

So one concern I had about the Gt Silver Metallic is having the ability to use different colored wheels on the car and it look good. I know mercury silver wheels look good and gunmetal look good, but I had hoped the bronze might look good as well. I had not seen any good examples of bronze on a car in that color.
I did however see a new color of wheel that goes well. The new GT2 has a white gold color on the wheels. I have never been a big fan of straight gold wheels, but this white gold looks pretty good. See link for pics.
http://www.gotbroken.com/2011-porsche-911-gt2-rs

So for the hell of it, I decided to do a mock up test. We have a laser cutter at school so I made a ring that was 303mm ID and 330mm OD. I put it on the stock 302mm rotor and test fit a 205 caliper. I just wanted to see what kind of fitment I would look at if I had a 330mm rotor if I end up going this route. This have a few mm that could accept a larger disc. Merlin said something about not going over a 330mm rotor, but I am not sure.
Here are pics of the test.

i use TRD pads( all pads pads are different shape, i know mintex are smaller area on the top for exemple)
with a 330mm rotors the outer diameter of the rotor is 0.3mm over the top of the pad when this outer diameter is 1.5mm from caliper's body.

you could go bigger but you will loose pad contact area and i think the best is when all the pad is on the rotor with the maximum OD rotor in order to have max stoping power with max unfading effect.

So today I finally sent the car off to the painter. It took a bit of the day to get everything out of my sisters garage as they stacked stuff up around it. I might also need a new headliner since they put stuff on it. Luckily the car is pretty much the same as before. I also need to order a few new trim parts since they did not survive her garage but nothing major.

I decided to keep the teeth on the bumper since we might move to Illinois. I will have to install a front plate if we do, so I am going to leave the front bar alone.

School is finally done for the semester, and I got into UT's Print Making and Graphic design programs, but if we move all that will change. We were trying to have a kid as well, but that might be put off for a little if we move as well.

A lot of things in my life is at a cross road, and I might be seeing lots of changes soon, but for now, at least I have the car started.

I do need to make a list of all the things I need to do to it that are a priority, but maybe next year I will get back to modding it again once things stabilize.

good luck this time around

Can't wait to see how it turns out, mine's in the paint shop too (taking forever though...dude is good, but slow-playin).

Bryan

I think I can save my headliner. Its not as bad as I thought. I think the part that bows will hold in place when installed. I just need to redo the material. The question is where should I get my material and what color.

I started a thread a while ago on how to do it yourself, but I will likely just pay someone to do it due to lack of time.
viewtopic.php?f=22&t=32134

I am also looking for st185 molding as mine is warped and broken from storage.

Official paint code is locked in: M7Z/U2

Any tricks to remove side molding? I am going to pullapart tomorrow to get some molding off a car. I do not want to damage it.

CMS-GT4":2i1t8l2f said:

Any tricks to remove side molding? I am going to pullapart tomorrow to get some molding off a car. I do not want to damage it.

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Take the door panel/ back pannel off to see the clips and use a heat gun if you can

No electricity at the junk yard and it might be 50 degrees outside. If I can not pull them off without damaging them, I'll look at other options for getting them.

Yeah a heat gun is what a lot of people use.

I also hear using floss or similar and working it back and forth between the molding and door may help with separating it.

I know it works well for badging anyway...

Bryan

I am also going to look at a rav4. I am curious how I will remove a spindle by myself. I was reading there is a spindle tool. I am wondering if there is something that locks the wheel for removing the axle bolt. The cars will be on blocks and no power so they brakes are not very effective.

CMS-GT4":15duyjtd said:

I am also going to look at a rav4. I am curious how I will remove a spindle by myself. I was reading there is a spindle tool. I am wondering if there is something that locks the wheel for removing the axle bolt. The cars will be on blocks and no power so they brakes are not very effective.

Click to expand...

Josh
Take long bar & jam it between a couple wheel studs, as it spins around the edge of the bar will stop somewhere on the vehicle, stopping the hub & axle. You'll obviously need a breaker bar & a 30mm socket

Good Luck
Pat

to remove the hub you'll need the following:
- pliers, needle nose and regular (good teeth)
- strong arm, ratchet + decent sockets. long sockets are also good. 14mm, 2x 17, 30
- big flathead screw driver + other screwdrivers
- hammer / mallet - hammer is better as you can shock the rust off.
- spanners
- side cutters
- zipties

1) remove pin from castle cover over main axle nut. pliers and possibly side cutters to take off. you can also use the hammer to punch the split pin through the hole but the needle nose are most effective here when you put one nose into the loop and lever/pry/curse it out. remove castle washer/cover. dont cut it out as it will just get jammed in there.
2) insert long screw driver in between vents on disc and wedge against the caliper. if rear hub, then use parking brake. using strong arm and 30mm socket, take off main axle nut. if you need to shock the axle a bit with the hammer. once loosened, undo all the way off and then redo on a little for later.
3) remove screwdriver from disc. take off caliper and wedge off with screwdriver. hang caliper to shock mount with zips out of the way. you can take off disc as well. may need to pull clip off brakeline to move caliper out way. pliers to wedge off.
4) remove castle nut on steering tie rod - more fun with split pins. bang with hammer to loosen off. tie rod end is in hard. hammer fixes all. pry off and you'll be left with a nice amount of grease.
4) undo strut to hub carrier using 2x 17mm sockets and strong arm + ratchet. Sometimes I go to the scrapyard with two strong arms, standard socket and impact driver socket for double power mwahaha - loosen only again
5) undo ball joint using 14mm on 3 nuts/bolts - again loosen only. later you may
6) using hammer, hit centre of cv joint head/axle to pop the cv joint out. pop it all the way out until no spline is attached to the hub.
7) undo all nuts and bolts and the hub will drop out.

if you don't want the heat shield (my scrapyard charges for the heatshield sneaky buggers), use torx bits to take off the bolts on the shield, then cut the thinnest part with side cutters and bend off
I think thats about it, voila - one hub for you to play with.

to remove actual spindle, you'll need pliers and a press. there is a how to in the tutorials section.

Thanks guys. I will report back tomorrow after I have made it to the yard.

and if anyone asks to borrow tools, they can as long as you have their car keys as gaurentee of return. Also helps to take a friend to carry tools or swag. take a plastic bag as well as you won't want dirt/grease through the car. towel for the seat as well if you have been sitting in the dirt/dust