MXP's ST165

MXP_57

New member
Hi everyone.

I thought i'd post some pics of my setup. I've been working on it for over 4 years now. It's almost the end of the project. I've done 98% of the work myself. (the rest is machining shop lol)

I've been very busy with CEIKA for the last year, and going overseas a lot so it hasn't progressed but i will have some time and all the bits finished soon hopefully.

It's a 1987 JDM st165 #1587 out of 2500. 130000kms on the chassis.

I've rebuilt my 1st gen 3sgte to stock specs + ARP head studs (new OEM pistons, head gasket etc..). The engine is 5000kms old.

It started as a personal project, but it's gone too far so i will be using it as a demo car for my company CEIKA (http://ceikaperformance.com)

ENGINE/TRANS:

- GT35 turbo oil cooled, 0.63 exhaust housing, full 360deg journal bearing one.
- Ebay T3 manifold, wastegate.
- 3SGE intake manifold
- custom cams 273deg/8.9mm intake and 265deg/8.7mm exhaust
- 3" front bumper exit exhaust with Varex canon muffler (adjustable volume)
- custom NST alloy crank pulley. (underdrive and only 1 belt thick for the alternator only) (no A/C, no P/S)
- Mocal thermostat plate with 19rows oil cooler and 13rows trans cooler.
- Honda Civic Bar and plates 60mm rad.
- Moroso oil pan

- St205 rear diff and st205 gearbox
- Carbon fiber 1 piece prop shaft
- Stage 4 unsprung clutch with light flywheel. (probably have to change that soon)

CHASSIS:

- fully stripped. FULLY! lol
- fiberglass doors, bonnet, fenders, rear hatch.
- carbon fiber gt3 seats
- Lexan windows
- complete roll cage build starting soon

- solid engine mounts
- solid rear subframe mounts and diff mount
- poly bushes everywhere
- uprated swaybar links
- rear whiteline sway bar
- CEIKA Type 1 coilovers 8kg/8kg springs, front and rear camber plates.

BRAKING:

- CEIKA big brake kit 8 pot 356mm front / small 6 pot 356mm rear. With full-floating 2pcs slotted rotors.
- new brake line routing from front to back
- floor mounted pedal box and bias bar.
- hydraulic handbrake
- need to get some 18x9" wheels in order to fit 275mm tyres. (got some fender flares lol)

FUELING for E85:

- 1600ccs top feed Siemens low imp injectors
- dual 044 fuel pump setup with lift pump, surge tank and fuel cell. Braided teflon lines everywhere. Returnless.
- Devilsown water injection kit with progressive controller. (D03 nozzle pre turbo, D04 pre TB, 250psi pump)

ELECTRONIC:

- J&S interceptor safeguard
- Megasquirt 3 ecu. Fully sequential injection and ignition with COP.
- 14point7 wideband o2
- new wiring / stripped wiring / 3kg battery


The goal is to get below 1000kg and power i will see how it goes but around 700hp max. This engine will not last long and wasn't meant to. It's just to test the setup i want to run. And in the same time, see how long a stock fresh engine can last. :)

I had the car in Australia for 3 years, then shipped it to France when i moved back.

Those pictures are from before, the car is in pieces at the moment as i will start building the roll cage soon and then full sandblast and respray with OEM white paint inside out. Once i have all the fiberglass panels on. Then put it all back together with all the parts above. There is a huge lego in my garage look. :-D

Here is a video of it the day before putting it in the container to France. PS: the car is hell dirty, after 6 months of work on it lol http://youtu.be/n8KJWSXGAYo?hd=1

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Terracar

New member
I like it. Looks clean. I am guessing by the exhaust routing it is a strip car or is it still a street car?

-Terracar
 

MXP_57

New member
Thanks for the comments.

I will tune it to the limit. Around 13:1 AFR at wot. ~700ccs of water injected. I want to reach 400whp with that setup.

It's still a street car. I still haven't started it but i'm guessing it will be quiet with the varex fully closed.

The car is currently in Australia, but i'm going back to my country (france) next year. I'll ship the car over of course. And then the car will be registered in UK as a company car. You can do pretty much anything with the exhaust in UK...

There will be a video asap once i started. I just can't wait to start the thing it's crazy...

801alltrac> many advantages to pre turbo injection. Faster spool, turbo acts like bigger turbo, lower than ambient intake temps possible. And with no intercooler because you don't need it anymore, less pressure drop, faster throttle response, better spool again, less weight, less shit under the bonnet. I think i'll stop there lol :D And then there are all the advantages of running water injection...

But mainly i want the car to be different.
 

Gary ST165

New member
wow. fantastique 8) congratulations on all your hard work. that 1987 now looks really new! :D
wish you all the best with the mapping and forward to reading more about pre turbo injection.
 

MXP_57

New member
Cheers!

I've been away for a 2weeks. I will go back to australia mid january.

Before i left, i struggled with the megasquirt but it wqs only silly mistakes...

The night before i left, i solved the problem, and the car almost started but i needed to set the base timing before starting.

So it should start almost right away as soon as i get back to it.

I have to finish the interior also.
 

zf_165_gt

New member
Hi ,
sorry to barge in, but it is possible to use the stock distributor with a megasquirt.
the only thing that got me stuck was the igniter, I decided to use the ignition transistor of the megasquirt instead.
I did it on a 1st gen 3S-GE and a 3S-GTE running mostly the same wiring, except for boost control and resistor pack.

it needs tuning of the Crank sensor circuit, and in my case a zeal daughterboard to be able to feed the camshaft angle sensor.
I used an oscilloscope to tune it ,watching the input side of the circuit and the output ( waves, and square waves at the output),adjusting the Pots until desired behavior is found
In my case i am not yet finished adjusting the crank sensor circuit to my taste , but i believe it is possible.(engine runs but if the circuit is not tuned for cranking speed below 100rm , it is not catching the crans sensor signal, that is what i want to figure out)
I also made the gap of the VR quite little.

again sorry to have barged in the thread
have a nice day
 

MXP_57

New member
No need to be sorry.

Yes i used the Zeil board. (available for cheap at DIYAUTOTUNE).

Both VR input are on the Zeil daughterboard.

I bypassed the circuit on the main board so i don't use the pots to adjust the signal.

I just played with the noise reducer feature in the software and i was logging the trigger signal while craking with the tunerstudio (full version) and adjust the noise reducer until i had a good signal. You don't need an oscilloscope, so don't panic lol.

I'm using the bosch BIP373 igniter (costs ~5usd). So i can adjust the dwell and sand higher amps to the coil.
 

zf_165_gt

New member
nice work, for my part I use an MS1 on the v3.0 board, I never knew about that noise reduction feature lol:)
i am using the same board from DIYAUTOTUNE only for the cam angle sensor, tried to use both channel of the daughterboard but it did not worked for me.

Do you know if the ST185 Distributor would work with the same results like those from ST162 and ST165?
thanks

real nice car by the way
I own an ST162 and an st185 and i am really proud to see a 4th gen buit that way :notworthy:
 

MXP_57

New member
Yeah, thanks a lot!! I'll be even more proud of it once it will be running :D

Yeah there's no reasons why it shouldn't work with the st185 distributor.

You want to read the MEgasquirt FAQ, in the last 3 or 5 pages there are some really helpful posts. This is where i got all the infos.

Only the full version of tunerstudio has the oscilloscope kind of feature.
 

MXP_57

New member
Yeah, thanks a lot!! I'll be even more proud of it once it will be running :D

Yeah there's no reasons why it shouldn't work with the st185 distributor.

You want to read the MEgasquirt FAQ, in the last 3 or 5 pages there are some really helpful posts. This is where i got all the infos.

Only the full version of tunerstudio has the oscilloscope kind of feature.
 
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