OKC Project-8/1/15-Another fun car!

Firstly, :shock: amazing build!

Couple of questions/requests for you though...

Did your car come with factory undercoating? If so are you stripping that off before doing the metal ready & marine clean for the por-15?

Also if you have the time/patience could you possibly create some sort of printable jig that one could lay over a fender to properly cut out the holes for the side markers? Just something that you could tape at the top edge of your fender and then trace the correct spot.
I've heard from a friend that there is one somewhere online but I haven't been able to find anything.
If you have no idea how to make it digital then maybe you could just mail me the cut-outs and leave the rest to me?


Truly impressive and dedicated work so far, keep it up!

Thanks!

The coating was a dealer option I believe (that's what I was told), so it didn't come from the factory. Regardless of where it came from, I scrubbed the hell out of it with purple power and just used metal ready on bare metal areas and rust (after brushing away the loose rust). I then just slapped por15 ontop of it all. It'll still bond just fine and create a moisture proof seal, it just won't stop any underlying rust of course beneath the toyota coating (since por15 isn't in actual contact with the metal. But honestly, despite not being the best stuff, but I believe that coating did help for the most part...i did peel away some of the toyota coating around areas that had some rust, but it didn't go beyond an inch underneath it.

So was it redundant to put por15 over the toyota coating? Perhaps, but I also wanted the undercarriage black, and due to the por15, it'll be easier to just rinse the undercarriage whenever I need to get under there to wash off any dirt/grime/oil.

I could have probably steam blasted the under carriage to get off the dirty and oil first, before scrubbing with purple power, but I didn't think about that until I got done lol :twisted:.

As for the fender cut out, it was actually a pain-staking process of making sure it lined up perfect. The fenders do flex when laying on the ground, so it was hard to get a static reference point to make any measurements off of. However, I can tell you what I did to make it easier.

Assuming you still have the side moulding on the fender, I used that as a reference point with a straight edge.

I probably should have taken photos, but honestly, it was taking longer than expected. I then used a MiniDremmel to make the cutout (being very careful not to extend the cut lines past the other perpendicular cut out lines). Yes, I did try a paper and cardboard template, but it just wasn't as accurate...the angle of the square (after overlaying the template to the usdm fender) just never was spot on.

I have a spare fender and can show you what I did with the straight edge, if you are having picture visualizing what I did. But i'm not sure how much help it'll be, considering you still need measurements (I assume you have no jdm fender at all, and will be cutting both usdm fenders?). I can't take any measurements for you anymore because I no longer have the side moulding.

If you don't need it right away (i'm very bogged with school at the moment), I can probably try and come up with a better template that can be used to overlay onto the fender, that way the side moulding for reference isn't needed.

Bryan

I'm in no rush right now to chop into my fenders so no worries about it - I too am feeling the school hurt that happens around this time of the year.
Unfortunately the JDM fenders that were on my RC were sold before I fully took ownership of the car so I don't have them to go by for measurements.
I've noticed that most people measure from the side garnish up to where the hole is and as much of a good idea that may be; my idea was to tape a piece of paper right along the top edge of the fender and then tape it down to follow the contour like this:

(pardon the crudeness of the picture - just doing it quickly)

Once you have the paper flat to the surface of the fender you can just cut out the side marker from it; trace the door arch portion on the back part of the paper that overhangs for alignment and then trace through the hole for the side marker. Am I making any sense?

Maybe the best way to do it would be to cut a piece of paper that fits on the inside of the fender instead? :twisted:

Yeah If i do the whole paper method, i'll have to make absolutely sure that the paper can be placed over another fender without any "wiggle" room, which can change the angle of the side marker.

I think also, the sidemarker will almost be straight on with the corner light, so that's something I can look into.

I believe it'll be more accurate/reproducible if I have the fenders bolted down completely onto the car before making any template, as the fender will be stationary as to not bend/flex.

Bryan

I can feel the GT4 love in this thread.
Awesome Build.

Puffy":2nkbmra4 said:

I can feel the GT4 love in this thread.
Awesome Build.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

It can be a love and hate thing time to time hah.

Bryan

So I need to replace my wheel bearings...

When I get them off, I'll check the hubs to see if they're within spec to be reused.

During that time, I want to get some fresh studs in. I was thinking of ARP extended studs (added strength and length...that doesn't sound right, does it? :twisted.

Thing is, if I get some spacers, I think i'll be running into problems if I use the spacers that have built in second set of studs (aren't most of them like that past a certain thickness)?

The wheels I'm running are pretty much 17's with like 35ish offset. I'm going to be running them for a while, so my wheel spacers aren't going to be very thin (but I won't be getting crazy). I think they'll be thick enough to have the second set of studs though built into them...so that's why i'm curious if the ARP extended studs will present a problem.

I suppose I could always have the studs on the spacer pressed out...what do you all think? Are the ARP's (in terms of strength), worth it over the OEM studs?

Bryan

Very inspirational.
This is so well documented, kudos on a magnificent restoration.
Subscribed, I want to see more

Did you kill the wheel bearings by not leaving the axle stubs in the hubs for the past while?

I would see the extended studs being a problem for sure with a spacer that is designed to have its own studs.

I've been running some of the H&R TRAK+ DRM Spacers on my rear end and have no complaints. They completely cover the stock studs up and are hubcentric so I didn't bother with extending the studs. I bought some 10mm spacers for the front end however and for that I plan on extending my studs.
<- clicky for who I bought em from.

However if you go with another make of spacer that doesn't have the extend studs built in then, yes you guessed it, you will have to get the ARP extended studs.

Thanks Rick, hopefully will be posting more pictures up of my progress next week when I get done with tests.

athousandleaves":1xl3ns52 said:

Did you kill the wheel bearings by not leaving the axle stubs in the hubs for the past while?

I would see the extended studs being a problem for sure with a spacer that is designed to have its own studs.

I've been running some of the H&R TRAK+ DRM Spacers on my rear end and have no complaints. They completely cover the stock studs up and are hubcentric so I didn't bother with extending the studs. I bought some 10mm spacers for the front end however and for that I plan on extending my studs.
<- clicky for who I bought em from.

However if you go with another make of spacer that doesn't have the extend studs built in then, yes you guessed it, you will have to get the ARP extended studs.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I left the axles out, I intend on replacing all my wheel bearings anyway (just hoping the all the hubs are still within spec to have new wheel bearings put on). Each hub is about 200+ dollars!

Yeah I think i'll just get the ARP extended studs anyway and just work around that.

Thanks for the help/suggestions on the wheel spacers!

Bryan

Alright, like I said I would post this weekend, here are pictures of the latest set of parts that I've purchased.

I'm going to make my own manifold (my brother will be welding it up), just a ram horn design. However, without thinking, I bought a T3 twin scroll flange...think I can just grind the center section down? The collector exit is actually bigger than the t3 flange, so shoud I gasket match it? I need to check and see if how well the T3 flange mates up with the turbo itself..

Enjoy!

ATS Modified Oil Pump


Full Engine Gasket Kit


Cometic 1.8mm MHG


OEM Timing Belt


OEM Lower Ball Joints


FIPG


Hatch Weather Stripping


Weather Stripping for both doors


Weather Stripping for both door jambs


Sunroof Seal


OEM Spoiler seals (one of them was missing which was shipped the next day)


Here's the missing spoiler seal...






OEM Replacement Door Handle Mechanism Clips










Water Pump Replacement Screw (had to use impact driver to get old one off...decided it'd be safe to replace it)


AEM EMS-4 Unit


AEM EMS-4 96" Engine Harness


Tial MVS Wastegate


Tial Q BOV


Injector Dynamic 1000cc (ID1000)


AEM IAT Sensor


RacerX Custom Side-feed Intake Manifold


KORacing Oil Feed Block Adapter


KORacing Oil Drain Oil Pan Adapter


KORacing Oil Feed Turbo Adapter


KORacing Oil Drain Turbo Adatper


KORacing Manifold Head Flange


TwosRUs Front and Rear Adjustable Endlinks


ACT 6puck Unsprung Clutch Disc/Heavy Duty Pressure Plate with TO Bearing


Precision 5857 Billet Journal Bearing Turbo


T3 Manifold Flange


Vibrant Performance T3 Single Scroll Manifold Collector


Piping of various shapes for the custom ram horn manifold...


Bryan

:notworthy:

Nice collection of parts.

#winning

Thanks guys!

Yes, Rene, Charlie Sheen would approve lol :twisted:

Bryan

ehhh! i want! lol. looks good man. i used ichiba spacers with built in studs. work great for me so far. i would be worried with longer studs, but maybe its ok.

Does anyone think ARP studs will be necessary on a 4-500hp car drag racing? Don't want to risk breaking any studs now...the stock studs have always been fine with me (as long as you don't cross thread them!).

Bryan

Don't know about necessary, but I would say for the minimal cost of them, you should spring for them. Better safe than sorry.

P.s.

Nice collection of parts, looking forward to seeing how this build turns out!

Cory, thanks! I need to really figure out the situation with my arp studs and wheel spacers, before I order them, unless I can find some ARP non-extended studs.


Got my ASI (although it says like autopwr or something...but the seller was asicandian..) ebay alu rad in. It looks decent, will do the job for now (until i find it sucks or breaks).

Waiting on the cooling panel from that group buy..should be interesting how it'll look bare metal against my bay. May still just PC it black.

Got a new steering wheel, so i'll be posting that up too.

I need to post up pics of my wheels I got for a good deal from my bro in law (he used them on his wrx before being totalled).

Progress has been very slow (school is keeping me way too busy).

Also powder coated some more parts, which I need to post up (along with my engine built progress).

All in due time!

Bryan