ST165 Speaker Fitment Guide

ZeroDrift

New member
Edited this post to contain data for quick reference. Pictures are seen in the replies below.

speaker-dimensions-guide.gif

"A" is the overall nominal diameter. This is about how wide you can go with a speaker's overall outer diameter.
"B" is the cutout diameter. This is how wide the hole needs to be for the speaker to sit on its mounting flange.
"C" is the nominal depth. This is an approximation of how deep of a speaker you can fit. Note that the OEM pods have contours and may not fit everything. Nominal measurements are taken at the center of where a speaker will rest.

Front Drivers:
  • Volume: 44oz (79.4 cubic inches)
  • "B" Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 77.8mm (3.063”)
  • "A" Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 104mm (4.0945”)
  • "C" Speaker nominal depth: 88.3mm (3.4764”)
  • Passive mounting diameter: 119mm (4.685”)
  • Passive nominal diameter: 106.2mm (4.1511”)
  • Passive nominal depth: 8.18mm at edge, 67.24mm at center

Front Passenger:
  • Volume: 50oz (90.2 cubic inches)
  • "B" Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 77.8mm (3.063”)
  • "A" Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 104mm (4.0945”)
  • "C" Speaker nominal depth: 139mm (5.4724”)
  • Passive mounting diameter: 119mm (4.685”)
  • Passive nominal diameter: 106.2mm (4.1511”)
  • Passive nominal depth: 61mm (2.4016”)

Rear Drivers:
  • Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
  • "B" Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 109.27mm (4.302”)
  • "A" Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 119mm (4.685”)
  • "C" Speaker nominal depth: 52.15mm (2.0531”)
  • Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
  • Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)

Rear Passenger:
  • Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
  • "B" Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 109.27mm (4.302”)
  • "A" Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 119mm (4.685”)
  • "C" Speaker nominal depth: 52.15 (2.0531”)
  • Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
  • Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)
 

Dracov

Member
Well first off, neither of those sizes are stock for a 165. The factory fronts are 3" and the rears are 4". Anything bigger will require customizing the boxes. There's probably writeups or photos of such around on the site. I've seen mention of a few people managing as big as 6.5" in the rear. It'd be nice to get all that info centralized though!
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Dracov":2osj69wz said:
Well first off, neither of those sizes are stock for a 165. The factory fronts are 3" and the rears are 4". Anything bigger will require customizing the boxes. There's probably writeups or photos of such around on the site. I've seen mention of a few people managing as big as 6.5" in the rear. It'd be nice to get all that info centralized though!

Thanks for the input! What is the largest speaker that can fit into the stock mounting areas? Any issues with depth?

Once I sell my car and or find the right ST165 Alltrac, I'll do what I can to update this this thread. I've got a little project in mind to maximize the audio department in these little cars since they are nowhere near as peppy as what I am selling. Gotta have something to tinker with!
 

Dracov

Member
Four inch ones won't be hard to adapt to the front boxes. It'll take a little finagling but they can fit in the stock location I believe...I'm about to do that on my own ones. Depth won't be an issue. The front boxes are about 5 inches deep or so. The rears are closer to 6 or 7 inches of usable depth. If you need I can snap pictures of them this afternoon. I have a pair of 6.5" speakers I inherited for free so I'll be working on a way to adapt those to the rear boxes myself. :)
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Updating this thread:

Rear speaker enclosure:
More information and potential plans for the rear speaker enclosure.

-Port tube length is 3.5".
-Nominal speaker mounting diameter: 4 (1/8)"
-Speaker mounting depth (max): 2"
-Volume of the enclosure: 95 OZ

Pictures:
DSC_0337.jpg


DSC_0338.jpg


DSC_0339.jpg


DSC_0340.jpg


DSC_0341.jpg
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Finally removed the rest of the speaker pods and took some measurements:

speaker-dimensions-guide.gif

"A" is the overall nominal diameter. This is about how wide you can go with a speaker's overall outer diameter.
"B" is the cutout diameter. This is how wide the hole needs to be for the speaker to sit on its mounting flange.
"C" is the nominal depth. This is an approximation of how deep of a speaker you can fit. Note that the OEM pods have contours and may not fit everything. Nominal measurements are taken at the center of where a speaker will rest.

Front Drivers:
  • Volume: 44oz (79.4 cubic inches)
  • Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 77.8mm (3.063”)
  • Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 104mm (4.0945”)
  • Speaker nominal depth: 88.3mm (3.4764”)
  • Passive mounting diameter: 119mm (4.685”)
  • Passive nominal diameter: 106.2mm (4.1511”)
  • Passive nominal depth: 8.18mm at edge, 67.24mm at center

Front Passenger:
  • Volume: 50oz (90.2 cubic inches)
  • Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 77.8mm (3.063”)
  • Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 104mm (4.0945”)
  • Speaker nominal depth: 139mm (5.4724”)
  • Passive mounting diameter: 119mm (4.685”)
  • Passive nominal diameter: 106.2mm (4.1511”)
  • Passive nominal depth: 61mm (2.4016”)

Rear Drivers:
  • Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
  • Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 109.27mm (4.302”)
  • Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 119mm (4.685”)
  • Speaker nominal depth: 52.15mm (2.0531”)
  • Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
  • Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)

Rear Passenger:
  • Volume: 95oz (171 cubic inches)
  • Speaker mounting diameter (cutout): 109.27mm (4.302”)
  • Speaker nominal diameter (overall diameter): 119mm (4.685”)
  • Speaker nominal depth: 52.15 (2.0531”)
  • Port length: 88.91mm (3.5”)
  • Port diameter: 27.8mm (1.0945”)
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
The rears dont look like the have any room for addition.

The fronts seem to have a little. And what is the flat speaker thing?
 

ZeroDrift

New member
If you cut and hack the speaker pods you can fit a larger driver inside, but honestly a smaller driver that fits will most likely sound better in its enclosure. The flat speaker unit is called a passive speaker. It moves as pressure changes from the main driver. This effectively makes the surface area of the speaker larger, but also changes the phase of the driver. I don't know much about these so I still plan to eliminate mine with a block off of some kind. The long term plan is to have a proper 6.5" driver mounted in the door and to use the front enclosures as mid drivers.

Can we make this thread a sticky for fellow ST165 owners?
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Going to update this thread as I've been making some progress on this recently.

Here are the front enclosures. Meant to order the 4 ohm driver for this. The driver fits perfectly and has a good tone, but needs a tweeter near ear level to keep the sound more natural. For a drop in speaker this works very well and I would recommend it. Here is a link to the 4 ohm version: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... 0-4%204%22

DSC_0381.jpg


DSC_0383.jpg


DSC_0384.jpg


DSC_0385.jpg



Here is the rear speaker setup. I used an Alpine SPX-137r speaker for this. It fits very well and matches the required enclosure dimensions perfectly. Only change needed is that the driver works best in a sealed enclosure instead of the ported OEM one. A block off plate is easy to make and is a bolt in affair which equates to a simple installation. I will be making changes to the setup as I need to install the crossovers and tweeters in the near future.

DSC_0354-1.jpg


Future plans may involve replacing the Alpine speakers with something that acts more as a woofer as opposed to a midrange. This speaker will be a snug fit but could work with a .5" spacer: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=264-878
264-878_s.jpg
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Quick guide on routing audio cable to the door.

Tools/supplies used:
-Old oil dipstick
-Electrical tape
-Audio cable
-Wire cutters
-Screwdriver (phillips)
-10mm socket with extension

Things to do first:
-Remove the door card. If you need instructions for this step, please just ask and I will post up a quick 'how to' for this. You will also have to peel back the plastic lining.
-Remove the plastic cover that is located in the foot well near the doors. This is a kick panel piece that has a trim with a single phillips screw near the door hinges and may have a single bolt to keep it in place.
-You may or may not need to remove the speaker pods for access. I already had the speaker pods removed for another reason at this point and am unsure if this step is needed.
-Now take the oil dipstick and or a thin piece of metal that you can fish though the rubber boot that goes between the chassis and the door. Just be very careful to avoid ripping the boot.



2012-05-12_13-12-20_765.jpg


Once the dipstick is through, tape your audio cables to the dipstick and slowly pull the cable through.

2012-05-12_13-17-54_652.jpg


2012-05-12_13-17-59_857.jpg


Once its through, be careful where you route the cable as you want to avoid any potential snags when the window lowers.

2012-05-12_13-39-26_726.jpg


Finally route the cable where its needed. Here I have one cable that leads to the sail panels as I will have a tweeter placed here. Another cable is left below as I may build a speaker pod on the door card. A little pre-planning goes a long way!

2012-05-12_13-39-05_307.jpg


A quick tip when routing multiple cables: To save on the guess work here, cut one cable at an angle, or cut one end shorter to help identify that cable later. Here you can see I have the tweeter cable cut at different lengths. Note that both ends of the cable are cut the same to identify that one from the other.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Nice trick with the dipstick.

I may be trying to do this soon cause I really dont want buy 3.5 or 4 speakers and try and make them work on the front, so may try and find a pod of some sort to make work on the front door.
 

Killtodie

New member
So what is the official status on speaker size? I am simply looking to upgrade the speakers, looking to spend $100 total on all 4. Nothing fancy, no extra work.

Most websites say 4 up front and 5 in the rear. 5 is not a common size but 5.25 is.

Front speaker measures less than 4" in diameter but is it a 3" or will a 4" still fit?

What about the rear? What is the speaker size? It measures a bit over 4 but is listed as 5.
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Read the tread. Half way down the first page you will have every dimension you could ever want. Look on Parts Express for affordable speakers that fit.
 

UtahSleeper

Active member
Dracov":jh4mgby0 said:
Well first off, neither of those sizes are stock for a 165. The factory fronts are 3" and the rears are 4". Anything bigger will require customizing the boxes. There's probably writeups or photos of such around on the site. I've seen mention of a few people managing as big as 6.5" in the rear. It'd be nice to get all that info centralized though!

It's in the thread :)
 

Killtodie

New member
So, hey Zero. I bought me a pair of 4" Pioneers at BBY for $20 on sale, just to see how they might fit, they dont.

But you got that 4" to fit without modification?

And for the rear, I opened up a 5.25 speakers and they where noticeably larger than the stock speaker I brought with me as a reference. But the Alpine 5.25 you say fit well.

Hmmm...
 

ZeroDrift

New member
You have to look at the cut out dimension, not what most manufactured post (cone and surround diameter). I will post up a few decent options tomorrow for a drop in speaker under certain price ranges.
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Here are a few potential 'drop in' options. Please double check against the dimensions I have posted on the first page as I'm only looking at the cut-out diameter (nominal mounting) for a match as well as 4 ohm speakers only. There are many more options not listed on this site, and of course many that I won't list as it can be adapted to fit with minor modification. Of course this is only one site that I am referencing as I've had great experience with their customer service and prompt shipping. You can use the dimensions I provided and use a vendor you prefer.

Assorted Speakers: http://www.parts-express.com/cat/home-audio-speakers/13
Speaker List: http://www.parts-express.com/resources/ ... -guide.cfm
Woofer List: http://www.parts-express.com/resources/ ... -guide.cfm
Resources: http://www.parts-express.com/resources/ ... cement.cfm
Car Subwoofer List: http://www.parts-express.com/resources/ ... -guide.cfm

Front Speakers:
$21.35 -Dayton ND-90 4ohm: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=290-208
$23.00 -Dayton RS100 4 ohm: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=295-378


Rear Speakers:
$10.74 -Goldwood GW-204: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=290-370
$26.90 -Dayton ND105-4: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=290-212
$71.58 -Tangband W4-1658SB: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=264-878
$91.58 -Tangband W4-1753SB: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=264-881


Technically you can use 8 ohm speakers as well as the 4 ohm units. My advice is to try to match the ohm rating front and rear so that they are better balanced. Also note that the 8 ohm drivers are going to be easier on your head unit/amp but may play more quietly at the same volume levels.

Other things to note is that you can fit a speaker with a smaller cut out diameter so long as the overall diameter (listed for the speaker) is larger than the speaker pods cut out diameter. Expect that you will have to drill new mounting holes for any replacement speaker most likely, as the likelihood of them matching the OEM mounting holes is fairly slim.
 
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