Pete's ST185, bone stock ( not for long) Update on page 2

peteleetzor

New member
Helloo everyone, recently bought a 93 Celica from a forum member.

My first car was a 86 Celica GTS, but sadly had to sell for some $$$ needed for college. That car had 260k+ miles and still going strong, been saving ever since.

Didn't get to take pictures since it was cloudy and rainy these past few days. The car has relatively low miles and very good body condition.

My goal of this car is the keep it as stock as possible, and mainly restoring the car back to the factory condition.
Jan 2014 New plan for the car, going to upgrade to better than factory


1. Speedo cable - Ordered but cant put out, need to drop tranny and engine >_>
2. Front bumper touchup
3. Rear defrost button does not work.
4. A/C control's light is missing.
5. 4th +5th gear syncho, grinds


Pretty sure there are other small details, but other then that, the car is in very good shape. Will post picture of the problem soon.
MORE PIC to come.
xfqck8.jpg

vew7t1.jpg

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Update 1 Jan. 24 On page 2
Someone backed into my car while I was parked at my GF house. The hit made a pretty big dent in the fender, and I doubt even with a pull and repaint is gonna look the same :*(, good news is that the frame is still good *yay for flared fenders*
Also got a new boot if that matters.
 

WarTowels

Active member
Nice! 1 of 81!

My goal of this car is the keep it as stock as possible, and mainly restoring the car back to the factory condition.

You can start by flipping the hood vents the correct way!

-Towels
 

peteleetzor

New member
AHAHAHHA, I totally forgot THANKS for reminding, I flipped it before my first wash since I didn't want water to get into the engine bay ( if thats even possible). I think one of the screws on the vent is missing too, not sure which one, will take picture of it tmr.

SELF reminder-flip the vents.
 

peteleetzor

New member
Fixed the vent, and took a picture with this lovely weather.

Will fix the speedocable as soon as my mechanic comes back from vacation on thursday.

Does anyone have experience with the primer? I heard is a oil base primer + paint so its hard to do touch up. Is this true? what is my best option for bumper touchup?

qntcg9.jpg
 

Bobbyx661

New member
NICE! i also have 1 of 81;)
i wanna paint mine a deep snow flat what!
and i agree with the good luck keeping it stock lol its hard!
 

phattyduck

New member
peteleetzor":g9llwfu0 said:
Fixed the vent, and took a picture with this lovely weather.

Will fix the speedocable as soon as my mechanic comes back from vacation on thursday.

Does anyone have experience with the primer? I heard is a oil base primer + paint so its hard to do touch up. Is this true? what is my best option for bumper touchup?
The factory white, red and black colors are single stage standard paints (no such thing as an oil-based automotive paint)... nothing special. Should be very easy to touch up unless you need primer to get to to adhere to a bare bumper cover.

-Charlie
 

dragstang86

New member
Nice car. Is this the one that was listed the for sale section in So. Cal? Let me know if you ever decide to sell it!
 

peteleetzor

New member
This was the car that was for sale, BUT I dont think I will ever sell this baby since its my daily driver.

Update: Got an alignmenttoday, 80 bucks down the drain. Next up is my speedocable and seatbelt.

Also why is it so hard to find 5th generation celica in socal's junkyard.
 

peteleetzor

New member
Well, the speedo cable seems to be an issue because I think my mechanic said the speedo gear in the transmission is stuck or something like that. Not really sure though, will take it to another place around here and get it checked.

ALSO does anyone have experience with like the speedo cable/ gear removal, from the transmission or like the price it takes to overhaul the transmission.

Anyways I ordered my seat belt assmby, will put in once it arrives.
 

toayoztan

Moderator
Here are pictures of the speedo gear and linkage from the transmission all the way to the combo meter (aka instrument cluster).

Does this help narrow down where along this path it seems to be broken?

speedot.png


speedo2.png


Bryan
 

peteleetzor

New member
Ok, so I took apart the speedocable from the firewall down to transmission.

I will be using that picture bryan posted as reference.

83710A ( the wire that goes to the dash) - tested and it works. To test, just unscrew, and turn the needle inside counter clockwise, have someone sit in the car and see if speedometer is jumps/ticks. If it does then it is not that part.

83710 not really sure that this part does, so didnt get to test.

882261B Speed sensor to cruise control? electronic so cant really manually test.

OK HERE is the tricky part, it took me a good 2 hours trying to remove the the needle below 882261B
83798 connects to the upper part, spun by the lower part.

The problem with my car is that 83770 and 83798

w1va54.jpg


The lower needle is bent, and also on the metal housing, there were external damge, and I put a screwdriver in there to see if it spun, it didnt.

ALSO to make sure that it was that part, I lifted the car, and stuck it in first gear to see if the lower speedocable assembly was spinning. The lower assembly ( from transmission up) is spinning just fine.

I will post up the damaged parts, and where the exact parts are located for future members ( though its kidna hard to get a camera in there).

OH YEAH, I removed the cruise control module, and fuel canister for easier access to the speedocable, incase some of you guys are planning to install yourself.
 

peteleetzor

New member
As far as I know, part 33403 ( which is a rubber gear inside the tran) can not be removed unless you drop the tran. For 33404 I think it is possible to remove without dropping the transmission, but have to work under the car to do so.

I will take picture of the parts today, and see if I can upload them.
 

phattyduck

New member
You should be able to remove the whole thing (speedo drive in the trans and the 90* elbow) as a unit after removing the bolt that holds it in place. Shouldn't be a big deal... (I did it a bunch of times in the car to get my cable to align right to my Camry)

The 90* coupler is normally where the problem happens.

-Charlie
 

peteleetzor

New member
A small update,

My oem seat belt assmble was put in by the dealer ( charge me 65 bucks) total came out to 300. 235 for the part, 65 for labor. In the process they broke my interior trim, but they replaced that for free so its way newer on one side of the car.

As for the speedocable, its impossible to remove that gear which is housed inside the transmission. so for now im leaving it.

The most recent problem is battery light came on, comes on and off. Does anyone have any experience with this?

I think it could be the alternator going out, low battery, or some wiring issue. If so does anyone know what brand of alternator fits the 185 because the dealer quoted me 728 bucks for the whole assembly and I was like WTF.
 

peteleetzor

New member
ok another small update,

1) weird noise right hand side of car ( possibly alternator) but will be replaceing the whole thing next week
2) my front wiper washer hose, part of it is missing so nothing comes out, the pump works.
3) my door lights and the light inside the car (one behind the sunroof) does not turn on when the door is open, but when when the trunk is open all the light works. really bugging me
4) Is there a diagram for the rear disfrost as in how its hooked up etc? my rear button has nothing inside for some reason.

5) ordered an oem antenna, also will be put in next week.

Goal by end of april, save money and fix speedocable, replace clutch, and synchros.
 

peteleetzor

New member
Ok alittle update, the alternator is dead for sure, so I took 2 hours to take it out this week. The bgb guide was not that clear on the steps in regards to loosening the idler pulley bolt + the adjustment bolt.

anyways here is a picture of what those look like in my car.

3u492.jpg


the bolt on the bottom is the ider pulley
and the other one is the adjustment. Note, the adjustment bolt will slide to the right as you loosen it. After being fully loosen, the whole pulley will slight forward.

Heres the steps I took.

1) undo all wiring
2) loosen the top mounting bolt then lower bolt.
3) loosen idler pulley bolt half way
4) loosen the adjustment bolt until you feel it become tighter, then loosen more of the idler pulley. ( and repeat until next step)
5) the adjustment bolt will slide out of the mount as you continue to loosen( to the right)
6) once the adjustment bolt is fully out, the pulley will spring forward, so watch for your head or eyes, easing the tension of belt.
7) after remove the top and bottom bolt and remove the whole alternator.

here's another picture of the other side, I already have to top and bottom bolt off.

oh4c6.jpg
 
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