700AWHP or Bust

BADNEWS

Member
I just did one quick photo of my rotating assembly with all the coatings. Did this photo is a couple minutes. Assembly of the motor is going to start soon.

Swain Tech did the coatings.
Pistons= Thermal Gold Coat on top and Low Friction on skirts
Rods=Oil Shed
Crank=Oil Shed
Bearings=Low Friction


223471_10151247616436669_1694876448_n.jpg


Here is the Head Assembly with the Coatings:
Combustion Chamber=Thermal
Exhaust Port=Thermal
Valves=Thermal
Valve Stems=Low Friction

385259_10151189051946669_1812593023_n.jpg


71582_10151189052096669_2063532487_n.jpg


484800_10151189052251669_1223315158_n.jpg


And the 5S Block with POR-15 block coating in black:

385192_10151255420793990_1797811607_n.jpg


397551_10151255415408990_1361089213_n.jpg
 

BADNEWS

Member
Suppose I should put a mod list with it.

MODS

Engine:
5S stroker (2.2 Liter) CP pistons (9.7:1 compression), Cunningham rods, 5S crank
98+ 5S block Half Filled
Swain Tech Coated Piston, Rods, Crank, Bearings, Combustion Chamber, and Exhaust Ports
ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
Hux Racing head stud step washers
ATS 5S .051 Headgasket
shimmed ATS oil pump +4.25mm
ported head (made so exhaust ports flow 20% more than intake ports)
GSC bronze valve guides
GSC Beehive valve springs
GSC Beehive titanium retainers
SuperTech 1mm oversized valves (Inconel on exhaust side)
Shimless conversion
HKS 272 10.4mm cams (IN/EX)
HKS cam gears
HKS timing belt
Unorthodox underdrive crank pulley
Fensport overdrive power steering pulley
Fensport Std size Alt pulley
O2 Induction custom intake manifold
Phenolic spacer
Wilson 80mm Throttle Body
Moroso Oil Pan
Custom Crank Scraper
Electromoitve TEC3
Talor Plug Wires to work with TEC3 coils
Speed Source solid engine mounts
Speed Source SS clutch line
Speed Source shifter bushings
Speed Source Crossmember Bushings
Custom Exhaust 3.5 inch w/ Apex-i Titanium N1 Muffler
Golpher 40mm Aluminum Radiator

Drivetrain:
Clutch Masters FX725 twin disk clutch
ACPT carbon 1 piece driveshaft
Toyota transmission with (93+ MR2 1st, 2nd gear, and shafts) (ST185 3rd-5th) and (ST205/93+ MR2 synchros)
Frana Billet Shift Forks
Hux Racing Scatter Shield
Mario's Center Viscous Coupling upgrade set to 300 ft/lbs
Mario's Rear Diff Mount
Cusco Rear LSD
Custom Solid Aluminum Rear Sub-Frame Mounts

Fuel:
Two Hux Racing fuel rails
Precision 95 Lbs/hr injectors (Primary)
Precision 165 Lbs/hr injectors (Secondary)
Aeromotive A100 fuel pressure regulator
Aeromotive Fuel Filters
Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel Pump Controller
JAZ 12 gallon fuel cell

Turbo:
Full Race twin scroll T4 exhaust manifold
Forced Performance HTZ4094R w/ 1.19 A/R Turbine Housing (In Precision terms it's a 6868 turbo)
2 Tial 44mm wastegates
Turbo Smart E-Boost 2 controller
Presicion 24 X 12 x 4 intercooler
HKS SS BOV
All wiggins clamps on the IC piping

Suspension and Brakes:
Tein SS coilovers
Whiteline 20mm rear adjustable swaybar
93 27mm front Toyota sway bar
93 rear control arms
Superflex full bushing Kit
Rocketeer Front and Rear brake kits
SSR Competition 17 X 8 wheels w 245/40 17 tires

Interior:
Momo competition steering wheel
TWM short throw shifter
TRD shift knob
Custom Autometer gauge cluster
Autometer 3 3/8 Speedo (0-160mph)
Autometer 3 3/8 tach
Autometer 2 1/16 fuel level
Autometer 2 1/16 water temp
Autometer 2 5/8 fuel pressure
Autometer 2 5/8 oil pressure
Holley A/F 2 1/16 gauge with FJO wideband
Sparco Figther race seats
Sparco competition 5 point 3" Harness
Custom 12 point cage

Exterior:
Lexus IS 300 Graphite Gray Pearl paint
Shaved fuel door, rear wiper, and rear washer nozzle
VIS RC hood
RC front bumber
 

BADNEWS

Member
This is how I am shimming my pump. You just need a 3/8 npt tap, a 3/8 npt allen plug, and drill bit for the plug (but the hole in your pump is the correct size for the tap already).

Drilled the plug so the valve doesn't hydro-lock. I did this back in 2003 without drilling it and I blew out my oil filter gasket from it hydro-locking and going over 100psi on a cold start.
734751_10151243364561669_823344223_n.jpg


My plug is about 10.8mm thick.
427327_10151243364481669_1848505173_n.jpg


Factory C-clip installed and plug threaded up to C-clip. Plug is protruding out 4.75mm. C-clip is 1mm thick, so for stock oil pressure setting the plug must be installed to 5.75mm deep.
24658_10151243364736669_709686932_n.jpg


Plug installed so that it is almost flush. Sticking out about 1mm-.5mm. We can just call it .8mm so that makes my plug installed 10mm total to make it easy. That means I have shimmed my relief valve 4.25mm like this.
563417_10151243364606669_25696162_n.jpg


1.5mm washer I can use as a shim for more oil pressure.
46673_10151243364676669_1706368339_n.jpg
 

l0ch0w

New member
6466 would be nice, but have you considered the Billet 6766 ball-bearing? I have ridden in an MR2 with gen 3 swap and one of those... it spooled faster than you could imagine... at only 24 psi it was pushing 675 to the wheels... Would have gone over 900 had he decided to actually turn the boost beyond 35-40ish

Also, what you doing for ignition system?
 

BADNEWS

Member
l0ch0w":1ph3mbgb said:
6466 would be nice, but have you considered the Billet 6766 ball-bearing? I have ridden in an MR2 with gen 3 swap and one of those... it spooled faster than you could imagine... at only 24 psi it was pushing 675 to the wheels... Would have gone over 900 had he decided to actually turn the boost beyond 35-40ish

Also, what you doing for ignition system?

The 6766 is not worth it IMHO. I'll either take the same spool and more power with a 6466 or same power and faster spool with a 6266 than my current turbo. I don't want anymore lag.

My ignition is all done with the TEC3. It's all apart of their EMS setup. All I did was get custom Nology plug wires with some NGK bkr8eix plugs
 

l0ch0w

New member
Not to be the bringer of bad news, but Nology wires are pretty well known to be snake oil. Go with Magnecor.

The ball bearing CEA billet 6766 spooled faster and hit harder than the original non billet bb 6266 that I rode in... Just sayin...

Ill find the dyno charts around here somewhere...
 

BADNEWS

Member

l0ch0w

New member
The biggest drawback from Nology's is that they dont do much for EMI reduction. Any sort of Analog input can be affected by this... They have also been known to kill coils by over-drawing them.

If you dont want red in the engine, just make some of your own using some MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor wire, its pretty comparable to Magnecor except theres a little extra work involved crimping your own...
 

klue

New member
Looks great Best of luck
I would advise to get a drag rated oil pan. On high output 4wd the acceleration G force can push the oil right to the back of the motor and starve the pick up. The engine will work fine on the dyno but likely not last once you get some grippy tires
 

aus jd 2703

New member
i loved your first incarnation and now i love this even more!
alot of people have questioned your choices and sure we would all do things slightly differently, but you cannot argue with your previous results and cannot wait for results of this engine.
i am curious about your sump and pick up system, what did you go with?
also are the rods and pistons custom? also is it a true 2.2L or is it 2.15L?
love the wiggins clamps! and surely this engine is capable of more than 700AWHP? your mods list looks as good not if better than trevor's and pat's?
 

ZeroDrift

New member
Progress looks great! Got a question for you regarding the coating on the head. Won't part of the combustion chamber coating be milled away when you have the head decked?
 

BADNEWS

Member
aus jd 2703":vz66z0b8 said:
i loved your first incarnation and now i love this even more!
alot of people have questioned your choices and sure we would all do things slightly differently, but you cannot argue with your previous results and cannot wait for results of this engine.
i am curious about your sump and pick up system, what did you go with?
also are the rods and pistons custom? also is it a true 2.2L or is it 2.15L?
love the wiggins clamps! and surely this engine is capable of more than 700AWHP? your mods list looks as good not if better than trevor's and pat's?

Before I ran the stock 3S oil pump with that allen plug shimmed to about 3mm. With 10W-30 oil when the engine was warmed up, I would get a peak oil pressure of about 67psi. This time I did a little more to try and hit 70psi.

Yes the rods and pistons are custom. My rods are 4mm longer than stock and the wrist pin is moved up into the oil ring area. I have to run oil support rail rings. If you look closely at the pic I have an extra set of rings there compared to normal. That is why. I did this to get a better rod ratio, and have more dwell time at TDC for better high RPM's.

ZeroDrift":vz66z0b8 said:
Progress looks great! Got a question for you regarding the coating on the head. Won't part of the combustion chamber coating be milled away when you have the head decked?

Yes it will come off when the head is decked. But I'm not building this motor with the thought of redoing it anytime soon. I hope that is how it goes.
 

aus jd 2703

New member
rm2932":1qra8yie said:
Before I ran the stock 3S oil pump with that allen plug shimmed to about 3mm. With 10W-30 oil when the engine was warmed up, I would get a peak oil pressure of about 67psi. This time I did a little more to try and hit 70psi.

Yes the rods and pistons are custom. My rods are 4mm longer than stock and the wrist pin is moved up into the oil ring area. I have to run oil support rail rings. If you look closely at the pic I have an extra set of rings there compared to normal. That is why. I did this to get a better rod ratio, and have more dwell time at TDC for better high RPM's.

wow just wow, you have truly developed your package, something very few people do now-days (myself included). you have been through trial and error and developed parts instead of buying and assembly. keep it up :notworthy: :notworthy:
 

BADNEWS

Member
aus jd 2703":fq2jbqzh said:
rm2932":fq2jbqzh said:
Before I ran the stock 3S oil pump with that allen plug shimmed to about 3mm. With 10W-30 oil when the engine was warmed up, I would get a peak oil pressure of about 67psi. This time I did a little more to try and hit 70psi.

Yes the rods and pistons are custom. My rods are 4mm longer than stock and the wrist pin is moved up into the oil ring area. I have to run oil support rail rings. If you look closely at the pic I have an extra set of rings there compared to normal. That is why. I did this to get a better rod ratio, and have more dwell time at TDC for better high RPM's.

wow just wow, you have truly developed your package, something very few people do now-days (myself included). you have been through trial and error and developed parts instead of buying and assembly. keep it up :notworthy: :notworthy:

Thanks, it means a lot.

Plastigaged the motor today. Everything looks uniform. Rods have an extra .001" clearance for higher rpm.

All the mains look like this:
Main3_zpsd2b8199f.jpg


And all the rods like this:
Rod2002_zps6bc788a6.jpg

Rod2003_zps394d9c41.jpg


I'm coming down with a cold now, so I'm going to take a break on the car for a little bit.
 

warracer

New member
I have to give mad respect for the massive work you are putting on your car ... Such an awesome build... :)

I tip my hat to you sir
 

BADNEWS

Member
Thanks.

My buddy is all into documenting this whole build, so he took a better pic of the rotating assembly:

13156_10151250065686669_121871122_n.jpg
 

l0ch0w

New member
Did you get the uprated wrist pins and HD forging? its tough to tell from pics. CP, JE, and wisecos are typically only rated to right at 600hp.
 

BADNEWS

Member
l0ch0w":frg69uae said:
Did you get the uprated wrist pins and HD forging? its tough to tell from pics. CP, JE, and wisecos are typically only rated to right at 600hp.

No, it's normal. I don't buy into that. The piston will break before the wrist pin. I haven't ever heard of someone breaking a wrist pin. 2nd the piston truly doesn't see as much heat as you would think in a properly running engine. The boundary layer that forms keeps the heat away. Otherwise all pistons would melt. Plus I have my coating as extra protection. The only advantage I would believe is if there is more material around the wristpin hole, in the piston. Giving it more strength there so it doesn't split in half at the wrist pin location.

My pistons and pins are CP but I am using JE rings. I'm on the same piston set since 2003. Not sure HD stuff was even out then. I have ruined one set of rods due to that little c-clip popping out of the oil relief valve at 9000rpm. That turned all the rod ends that go around the crank black. If you guys want a picture I can post it of the carnage. That is why I did the allen npt plug. I ended up buying a brand new 3S block to redo my motor. The block came with the 98+ 5S corner by the water pump. So I thought I was in the clear. Got my Alltrac running on the GT4088R. After just shy of 2,000 miles I cracked it between cylinder 2 and 3 inside of 2. Got a junkyard 5S block and pulled the freeze plugs. Pulled the plugs on my 3S to find that Toyota runs a webbing between cylinder 2 and 3. The 3S block stops half way up to allow more coolant around the cylinder at the top, where the 5S one runs the whole way. My crack was exactly where the webbing stopped. So now I am running the 5S block with it half filled for extra support. My 3s block cracked with a 1mm over bore. With the coatings this time and doing the normal my machinist likes to do .005" piston to wall clearance, my bore is 3.437" or 87.3mm. We'll see how it works out. All of this has happened on the piston set I currently have. If i got a new set I would raise my compression. Right now I am at about 8.4:1. I would change it to between 9-10. If I had an E85 station close to me, 10 would be the minimum.
 
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