700AWHP or Bust

aus jd 2703

New member
is it maybe possible ats port the pump aswell? i have heard of that being done to other engines oil pumps?

im curious on your opinion of why your block cracked?
i read a post that suggested our block crack due to nucleate boiling that occurs when the engine is shut off and the water become stagnate. you said yours cracked at the end of the reinforced casting which would disprove this argument. just curious on your opinion?
reason is i plan on running and electric water pump to try and prevent localized hot spots on shut down and therefore minimize the chance of cracking a block (gen 2). but it may not be needed if thats not the real problem
 

BADNEWS

Member
mine cracked while I was driving. I was letting my friend drive and he was in 3rd gear and floored it starting at like 3500rpm. He revved it to only like 6500. From there it was normal driving and like 5 minutes later my lower radiator hose blew off. (I have a sealed coolant over flow so it's legal for the track which I need to change around for street driving). At that time we thought it was a freak thing. Walmart was next door so I walked and got some coolant. While my buddy that was cruising with us went to get some tools. Put everything back together and started to head home. 5 minutes or so later the hose popped off again. put it back on and made it home.

Thinking the pressure in the coolant system was from a bad head gasket. I ordered L19 head studs and a new head gasket. Took it apart to find the crack in cylinder #2

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So my trip was a maybe 1-1.5 mile drive to culvers. Parked and ate. Then drove around for 15 minutes calm and normal. Told my friend to floor it. did a 3rd gear pull. Drove like about 5 minutes, then at a stop light my hose blew off. Fixed it, 5 minutes later it blew off. Fixed again and never reved it over 2500rpm to make it home for the next 5 minute drive home. Started overheating too after the first time the hose blew off. May have been over heating between the 3rd gear pull and the first blow off but my friend wasn't looking at the gauge.

Maybe I'm wrong when it happened but that is when i think it did. And we'll never know for sure. It's always just a guess
 

BADNEWS

Member
4rsnduction":2hm3eeos said:
Dude, sucks to hear about the number 2 cylinder.
Whats your next move from here ?

That happened 2 years ago. That was on a 3S block. Redoing the motor this time with a 5S block half filled to hopefully solve the problem.
 

l0ch0w

New member
Is there a reason for half-filled? How are you doing that? Can't say ive ever heard of anyone cracking a 98+ 5S block ever.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Take a plastic cup. Now pretend that is you cylinder wall. If you try to move it like squeeze and stuff it moves easily. Now put the bottom half of the cup in cement. Everything flexes less. So it's just for support. I just went the extra step since I already cracked a block. Trevor is the only other person that I know of that has a 5S block half filled also.

My machinist does a ton of 4G63's. And he was telling me the rule for those blocks are, if you are running 40psi or more you need to to a 1/2 filled block or you'll crack it. And for 50+psi or the 1000+awhp they always do a fully filled block where coolant only goes through the head.
 

sleeper

New member
rm2932":35d4dvu7 said:
Take a plastic cup. Now pretend that is you cylinder wall. If you try to move it like squeeze and stuff it moves easily. Now put the bottom half of the cup in cement. Everything flexes less. So it's just for support. I just went the extra step since I already cracked a block. Trevor is the only other person that I know of that has a 5S block half filled also.

My machinist does a ton of 4G63's. And he was telling me the rule for those blocks are, if you are running 40psi or more you need to to a 1/2 filled block or you'll crack it. And for 50+psi or the 1000+awhp they always do a fully filled block where coolant only goes through the head.

Looking forward to seeing how the cooling will be at normal cruising. 8) If i ever rebuild my engine to 1000+hp i guess i will have to do that to..
 

BADNEWS

Member
sleeper":2hfp6q3z said:
Looking forward to seeing how the cooling will be at normal cruising. 8) If i ever rebuild my engine to 1000+hp i guess i will have to do that to..
Fully filled is a drag race setup only. No more street driving with that.
 

sleeper

New member
rm2932":2p0f037q said:
sleeper":2p0f037q said:
Looking forward to seeing how the cooling will be at normal cruising. 8) If i ever rebuild my engine to 1000+hp i guess i will have to do that to..
Fully filled is a drag race setup only. No more street driving with that.


I know, thought about a half filled if i rebuild my engine for more hp. ( mine still needs to be a daily driver, and able to do road racing sessions.. ) :D
 

BADNEWS

Member
For fun I ordered a oil pump from a 2001 Camry part #15100-74030

Here is a list of every vehicle that pump was in along with a price of $128.97:

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_Product/PartsFits.aspx?partNumber=15100-74030

I already had the ATS HV Oil Pump with a price of $169.00
http://www.atsracing.net/Parts/Details/E-OILPUMP

Please note I had already put my front seal in my ATS pump (it doesn't come with it). To me it looks like they buy the 5S pump and take the gear off it. Next grind the two spots where it says Toyota on it. Then sell it.

Toyota 5S pump in the box:
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5S pump alone:
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ATS pump alone:
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Pumps apart side by side, ATS left vs 5S right:
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5S rotor:
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ATS rotor:
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Relief Springs side by side, ATS left vs 5S right:
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BADNEWS

Member
Cause I have already cracked a 5S crank. Didn't want to go nuts on it with a knife edge to have it crack again. if I crack another one I will be getting a Brian Crower Billet Crank.
 

BADNEWS

Member
Took out my rear Factory LSD today to replace it with my new Cusco. I bought the diff brand new from Toyota, but now I have been hearing that people at my power level break the stock one. So I now have a factory rear LSD for sale that has about 2,000 miles on it. lol

Anyway took it out and put the new Cusco in. Monday I'll take it by my buddy who is a tech at Toyota to check back lash, bearing preload, and how the gears mesh. Once that is all in spec I'm going to completely disassemble it again to have it sand blasted to prep it for power coating. Hopefully it will be bolted back into the car in about 2 weeks.

Diff housing pulled out of the car:
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Just opened it up and pulled the bearing caps to looked for the c clip for the axles. Only to learn the LSD is like the front axles, They have a snap ring so they just "pop" in. So with a little fineness with a hammer we got the axle ends out:
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Diff pulled out:
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Cusco left vs stock right:
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You can see the clutch discs of the Cusco:
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Cusco installed:
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BADNEWS

Member
l0ch0w":1wpb45ul said:
^now that is awesome! What color you PCing it?

Black. My buddy sand blasts it at his work. Then his neighbor tapes it off and coats it at his work. He does industrial stuff so I only have 2 options. Black or Wrinkle Black. If I want colors I have to go to a normal place.

Here is the case blasted:
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And the Trans case with wrinkle black powder coating:
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Transfer case coated:
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