Wont start after driving for a while..

maxaud

Active member
So a while back my Celica would randomly shut off after driving it long distance or if I shut it off after a little drive, it wouldn't start again until it was left sitting for a bit.

The fuel pump relay also seemed like it would get considerably hot, maybe that's normal?
(I've tried a different relay as well.)

I took it to a shop and they said it was the fuel pump so I ordered a walbro and had that put it.

It's been working fine for a while now and probably have put on a few hundred kilometers but now it's doing the same thing.
sometimes the car will also take a few rotations of the engine to start where it will normally start right up.

I'm curious if anyone has had a similar issue and what it ended up being, or if anyone knows what may be causing this.

I would hate to have another fuel pump put in as I feel like that's not the solution. Maybe there's something inline that is causing the pump to overheat? I can still hear the pump turn on when turning the key (not everytime).

Thoughts?

Thanks, as always, guys.
 

maxaud

Active member
Yeah, reading up on the starter relay mod (and the associated problem), it doesn't sound like the same thing. The car tuns over quiet well and doesn't click at all. The part about having to let the car sit does sound reminiscent of the starter relay mod issue though.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 

syko says

Active member
perhaps maybe the afm? When I had my 185, I think I could drive it while cold/warmed up; but typically after 30 min the car would shut off after stopping completely then trying to accelerate. it threw some CELs related to the afm. Opened it up and found the connections were loose. It's worthwhile to look at it, if you can seal it up.
 

maxaud

Active member
I'm not getting any codes related to AFM but I suppose that doesn't rule it out.

I also noticed that the blue/yellow wire to the fuel pump relay looks a little glazed as if it were getting some resistance.
 

syko says

Active member
with the cars being so old, it could be old connections or wires that could heat up and lose contact; even if its minor resistance. if no CELs, your afm prob is good. Good luck on the RC (if its still running strong?)
 

Bobbyx661

New member
mine did the same thing and after changing everything out it turned out that I just needed colder plugs -_- so id try that man.
 

Corey

Active member
My car had strange starting issues for the longest time. I'd have to crank and crank before it would fire up. Some days it would have no issues.

What fixed it - no idea. But I can tell you what I changed.

Gen III MR2 ECU
Gen III Air temp sensors, Map sensor and Ignitor
AFM - GONE
st205 Injectors
tvis no longer needed - removed
cold start injector no longer needed - removed


nothing else changed. The car now fires right up. Wiring harness is still original (just repinned for the MR2 ecu with a jumper)

Now it fires up like a brand new car.
 

maxaud

Active member
Thanks guys, I'll be doing a tune up here soon and will most likely get the NGK BKR7E's, should be cold enough, right?
 

maxaud

Active member
Bringing this thread back to life. Been a while since I've been on.

STILL having this issue.

Basically, if I drive any long distance or if I drive the car for longer than 30-40 minutes and I shut it off it wont want to start. Simply turns over and doesn't even sound like it's trying to start.

Was told it may be vapor lock in the fuel system but I still encountered the issue with the fuel cap off.

Seems to be fuel related instead of spark.

Any other ideas as to what this may be?
 

maxaud

Active member
Do you thinka fuel filter would prevent it from even coughing while turning over? If you let it sit it then starts right up..
 

___Scott___

Active member
My Mom had a '76 Celica GT (many years ago) that did the same thing. My memory isn't real clear on the details, but I do remember replacing the fuel filter. It also seems that there was a blockage in the fuel line that we had to blow out.

Before that it would run fine for a while and then just shut off. It gradually got worse until I replaced the fuel filter and blew out the fuel line. No trouble after that (other than that even though it didn't leak a drop of anything, it did burn a quart of oil every 100 miles on the highway.)

That was a cool car, I wish I was in a position to buy it before they traded it in.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Vapour lock wouldn't go away by removing the cap if it's the injectors that are locked. Once my Cherokee is warmed up if I shut it off the fuel in one or two of the injectors vapourizes from the heat, if I try starting it before it cools to a liquid I get a misfire until it clears out. If they all locked up like that then it would do exactly what you're describing. I'm not sure exactly how to diagnose or fix it if that's your problem but it's something to look at.

Have you confirmed that your injectors are firing while the engine is being cranked?
 

maxaud

Active member
I haven't confirmed it. Maybe I'll try to get it symptomatic and take out both the fuel line and the injectors for testing.
 

ReDRuM

New member
I had a problem with start being a little intermittent. I noticed a clamp on one of the intake pipes was off and the hose pipe was not completely connected. Pushed it back on and start start up issue was fixed
 

audiodjmp77

New member
Have you tried to measure the amperage draw when it has been hot and would not start ? It sounds like a starter motor issue, I had it on my Sierra where it would not start, got the recovery to it and they did that and that's how I found that out.

Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
 

freddie

New member
Yep I would put betting money on it being the fuel filter. I've had that happen on my 162. It seems the crap in the filter
moves around with the fuel pressure/flow and blocks the filter medium, then settles when the car has been standing for a while, allowing fuel to by-pass it (the crap that is).

By the way there is a fuel pump cut off wire at the MAF. (no air flow = no fuel flow)
 
Top