1991 RC recovery mission - "Rebel Scum"

underscore

Well-known member
Yep everything showed up in perfect shape, thanks man! The 25mm spacers make a huge difference, but the more I look at the 25 + 8 setup the more I like it. I might give it a shot and see what happens.
 

celigts

New member
That's what I was doing for a bit. Worked fine with my driving.

It gives it that little more push eh! Those barely make a difference on the front. But it did help.
 

underscore

Well-known member
The fronts I need more for rubbing issues than looks, although pushing out the front a tiny bit will make it look and handle a bit better.
 

underscore

Well-known member
celi_wabbit":zb141soa said:
underscore":zb141soa said:
I gave the RC the ol' reach around, and it feels like they might be touching. Hard to tell, as the ball joint is curved, so Ill do some measuring.

Keep me up to date! I know when I installed mine, I thought I had enough clearance between the rotors an d the ball joint. But I noticed that as soon as I dropped the car and had load on the wheels, the gap got smaller and noticed that had some rub mark on the inner rotors. I'm thinking of just getting a 3mm spacer and put it between the hub and rotor to push the gap 3mm more. Not sure if I need to extend the studs?

What ended up happening with this? I just came across this again and I'm having some kind of issue when turning left, if I'm going over 30km/h-ish and I get near full lock I have this horrendous sounding clunking coming from the front right corner. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet but I'm thinking it's either my axle binding (not sure what this sounds like though, or why it would be happening on my car) or something touching the big brakes under compression.
 

Overtriped

New member
This car looks awesome!! My Truck would make that awful noise at full lock, pretty sure it was just the shafts binding a bit.
 

gt4lm

New member
underscore":1ni5csho said:
I got the main rear subframe bushings in (the 4 big ones) and loosely installed the rear diff mount. These delrin bushing fit perfectly, just a bit of grease and some love taps from my rubber mallet and they went right in.

Unfortunately I then realized I has completely forgotten about the small crossmember and went and dug it out from under the car. Unfortunately it's in much worse shape than everything else, so I'm going to get it sandblasted.

I ended up snapping one of the studs on the weight/block of metal that bolts to the crossmember, does anyone know what this thing is actually for? It's part #51277‑20010 and it looks to be some kind of counterweight, if I need it I'll drill out the stud and put in a bolt, but if it's useless I won't bother putting it back in.

Where are these main subframe bushes from? i would like to check them out

regards
 

celigts

New member
gt4lm":40h6b1iq said:
underscore":40h6b1iq said:
I got the main rear subframe bushings in (the 4 big ones) and loosely installed the rear diff mount. These delrin bushing fit perfectly, just a bit of grease and some love taps from my rubber mallet and they went right in.

Unfortunately I then realized I has completely forgotten about the small crossmember and went and dug it out from under the car. Unfortunately it's in much worse shape than everything else, so I'm going to get it sandblasted.

I ended up snapping one of the studs on the weight/block of metal that bolts to the crossmember, does anyone know what this thing is actually for? It's part #51277‑20010 and it looks to be some kind of counterweight, if I need it I'll drill out the stud and put in a bolt, but if it's useless I won't bother putting it back in.

Where are these main subframe bushes from? i would like to check them out

regards

Klue sells them aka xiiimotorsports which is one of the vendors now :) amazing quality! Much better pull inter rear end after
 

underscore

Well-known member
I've been told the noise might be a bad CV, which would make sense as the drivers front is the only one I haven't replaced/rebuilt.

And yes the diff kit is from xiii
 

underscore

Well-known member
Oh and it appears something got damaged recently, the stupid oil drain plug fell out but I managed to get the engine off before it lost too much oil, I'm hoping it's the turbo but there's still zero shaft play in it. Basically if I boost fairly heavily (>10psi) and shift somewhat hard (throttle closing completely) a second or so later there's a big poof of blue out the back. To top it off, my bov shot out a big glob of oil at one point, wtf?

Once I dig my spare turbo out of the garage I'll swap it and see if there's any improvement, even though the spare has more shaft play.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Oh, and I finally installed my RallyArmor flaps

1266395_10153346090880193_391428100_o.jpg
 

underscore

Well-known member
No these are the thicker ones, I think they run somewhere around $100. If I could go back I'd probably go for the cheaper/thinner ones, as these are a bit stiff for how low I have them to the ground.
 

underscore

Well-known member
It was finally sunny so I snapped a pic. I like this one cause you can't really see the keying that was done.

1270771_10153388487450193_905489330_o.jpg
 

gtfourcs

New member
At first I wasnt feelin the red flaps but now im thinking they do look pretty good with a black car. Now you have me debating which color I want for my alltrac haha. Hows the ride with the coilovers? Have you really gave em a good testing?

btw have you tried to push your antenna down while the motor is turning? thats how I got mine to go all the way in then I just unpluged it. who really needs radio anyways with phones that have mp3 players on em haha
 

underscore

Well-known member
Haha yeah they're a bit of an acquired taste, I was a tad unsure about the rears at first but now I love them. The coilovers haven't been put through their paces or even set up properly as of yet since my drivers front axle makes noise when I put the car through any kind of semi aggressive left turn. The ride quality for normal city driving is great now that I extended the length of the rears, at first I just raised the spring perch but that mad it way too bouncy.

I haven't tried pushing with the motor turning but the antenna itself has a nasty kink in it from getting bent so I don't want to force it too much. At least this way the kink is hidden and it kinda looks like a short antenna haha. Sadly I do need the radio atm as it's the only music I can get without making the stock system sound really bad, something is messed up but I haven't had time to look into it.
 

underscore

Well-known member
Not yet, I want to solve the oil consumption/leakage and the power steering leak first so I don't dump fluids all over the nice shiny dyno. I installed a catch can onto the PCV line since 1) it looks like that's where my oil is coming in, which sucks since I cleaned out the intercooler back in July and now I need to do it again, and 2) the other hose broke. The smoke clouds seem to be decreasing now which I hope means that the oil being burnt off now is just what was left in the intake system before I put on the can.

Last night I swapped out the red Yonaka for the stock seat, the stocker weighs a tonne more but it sits a few inches lower which will be nice. I also learned that the car has a seatbelt sensor but it was disconnected while the Yonaka was in and nothing happened? I also noticed last night that my O2 sensor wire broke :doh: which is a good excuse to put on the better one I have sitting on a shelf.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I had a very heavy and very tightly wrapped package arrive from polm today, I was happy to find out my hunch about the strut tower bar was right (it's designed for the RC hood). Of course I was horribly impatient so I tossed it on along with the taillight vents so that the exterior of the car is one step closer to being back to the way it should be.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I took some time yesterday to swap out the drivers front CV with the rebuilt one, so the car now has new/rebuilt CV's on all 4 corners. The old one seemed to be missing the ring that holds the ball bearings in and some of the ball bearings, so I'm thinking whoever rebuilt this thing last did a crap job.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I drove it with the new CV last night, I also turned the front struts to max stiffness, and long story short it still makes the clunking under turns, except now it makes it turning both ways but it's quieter than before. It's also dependent on the amount of compression on the car, ie the harder I turn the worse it gets, if I turn near full lock in a parking lot I can make the sound come and go with the throttle. A buddy of mine thinks it might be the coilover springs but I don't see how that sound could be continuous when I'm holding a constant turn.
 
Top