Project-Heartbreaker 215/205 mash up

phattyduck

New member
You'll love the gen3 once it is all 100%... its a great motor. Starts up right, idles right, good power band, no odd AFM issues.

And you'll really love 17psi. :D

-Charlie
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Duck, man I'm really looking forward to the full 17 with a decent ebc tuned properly, ive got cel 22 and 54 to deal with, but ive got the bov working but not fine adjusted. Only at about ten max right now. Plus a wheel bearing may be bad I've got a scraping sound and i hate it.
Test drove it twenty minutes and it overheated in the parking lot at the last minute while idling.
Its hard to start when cold and misfires a bit until full throttle or at least a quarter the way to op temp. I'm assuming vaccum leak and icv issues.
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Yeah, on the way home she ran fine until that last mile mark and sitting at lights... Keeps pissing out of the overflow. Ill be looking into a low temp thermostat to run at 71c, hopefully ko racing has one for the 205, plus a low temp fan switch. Even though my huge aluminum radiator makes it so i only have room for a single slim fan that comes close to the compressor. Oh and it was running pig rich mostly because of the tps adjustment being off and timing isnt set yet.
Oh and it smells like perhaps pws fluid is being burned off somewhere, either that or oil but it doesn't smell exactly like oil. Just a small amount of smoke coming from the behind plenum.
So much work to do in the next month or two to get it daily driven in the vegas heat
 

Meenya

New member
You might want to consider Toyota Long life premixed 55/45 coolant. I think it would do a better job than 70/30 you've mentioned below.

soarer.jzz30":3ao2lrio said:
It took awhile for the fuel system to fill up completely, it putted over for awhile but i kept cranking it and eventually it was running on at least three cylinders and after a few minutes she was able to idle and rev no problem.. Took her around the block and worked great so far. Lots of stuff to work out but all in all it's finally a bit of success. Sounds really nice and quiet but a rumble. Alternator bearings are going out fast, there is a whine, not sure if the bov is working i think i have to take it out and check it's operation. Gauge needles are all off because i more or less guessed where they needed to be. Tach is screwy and needs to be wound once more. Timing needs set, tps needs adjusted. Idle was a little high, brakes are mushy because the rust is being knocked off and needs another bleeding. Cooling system needs a good bleed, code 54 and 22 are on now, clutch felt really tight amd spot on weight, pws worked flawlessly. After 45 run time i saw no leaks and it didnt over heat. I never heard the rad fan turn on but then again maybe it never was hot enough (three row rad may help and 70/30 mix and higher psi cap)

I will be using a relay and connecting the NE ground for a switch for the power on the wta pump so it only comes on during running conditions instead of key on.
I have a bigger coil coming in next week and 7mm wires hooked up already plus my colder iridium plugs so ill be trying out 12btdc for timing. A/c will be dealt with next week, body kit development is on hold until its ready for daily use.

Really happy with progress today, a four dollar 95 celica st fuel line fixed everything.. Lmfao.
I have an old boost gauge ill hook up for temp use just until i get a truboost controller.
Ill let the stock system handle everything for now until its 100% then ill start in on performance. Man..
Thanks to this community i have my dream car amd drivetrain.
Thanks everyone!
Many updates to come
 

phattyduck

New member
soarer.jzz30":pp38ltrc said:
Yeah, on the way home she ran fine until that last mile mark and sitting at lights... Keeps pissing out of the overflow. Ill be looking into a low temp thermostat to run at 71c, hopefully ko racing has one for the 205, plus a low temp fan switch. Even though my huge aluminum radiator makes it so i only have room for a single slim fan that comes close to the compressor.
Even a normal temp thermostat and a single fan should not make it piss out the overflow. Either you have a bad thermostat or a leaking radiator cap... How was the temp on the gauge?

-Charlie
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
I figured out the fan switch isnt cutting on all the time, once the temp went up a little spike to the top as i pulled into wherever im going.
If i keep moving over 35-40 it never has an issue. I purchased some galvanized steel to fabricate s shroud and i have a spare fan switch, oh and i bought a little 7" fan to push from the front to back, i already bought the t stat, ill pick up the 1.5 bar cap next check. Unless the water pump is going out it'll be ready for 115 degree Vegas summer.
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Ok so quick note, there was a short at the fan wiring and that's why the fan wasn't kicking on, as long as the temp switch is functional it will work fine.

On another note I managed to wire the wta pump into the circuit open relay via the fc ground switch from the ecu, so now the pump only comes on when thd engibe is actually running instead of with key on (should help with start up voltage in case my red top ever discharges to much)

But I go to start her up and it sounds like its only firing on three cylinders all the sudden.. A bit confusing, i did put the distributor back to a centered position of adjustment and also the TPS. Lets be clear I've adjusted them from both directions all the way and it's always fired on all four no problem, I took her for a spin around the block and it was way out of balance but sounded like it was running all four. Im a little stumped atm what would cause this.
The fc switch is connected to the COR so making it operate another relay shouldn't have any adverse effects. But I will disconnect it tomorrow morning and see if it goes back to normal, I have doubts it will.
Also I did check the wires and they felt tight in the dizzy but maybe I loosened one when i was setting the dizzy position. Hmmm
Updates tomorrow
Oh one more thing the bov tension is set almost perfect now, and there isnt any smoke from the back anymore either. So win/lose some.
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Problem solved for the rough (possible misfire) just a loose pin on the ecu. The radiator fan works just fine and didnt overheat while idling for twenty minutes. Ill take it for a test tonight on a longer drive just to make sure.
So im working on the 22 and 54 cel, i know ive got the patch done in place just fine but the relay never kicks over when the throttle is depressed, the INT pin is responsible for this and it never sends signal, i manually ground it an it works fine there is signal to the other two wires fine. My question is, can i leave the relay on full time or does the code still come up if it senses this operation? Ill check the 54 thread i know it's in there somewhere which is why the relay is in place.. Ughh... I may have to devise my own switched relay from the throttle signal so it functions right, maybe my ecu idk what to think.
 

phattyduck

New member
Do you have the intercooler level switch pins connected? That will keep the ECU from turning on the intercooler pump and give you code 54 also.

-Charlie
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Yes the level is connected to the sensor, but the sensor is working fine and the ground is fine as well. INT not sending ground is a huge issue for getting the patch to work. Level should be fine
Just to be certain I'll jumper it temporarily and see if the operation of the int works. Glad to know that what i assumed about the ecu not turning on INT unless level checks out was accurate.
 

soarer.jzz30

New member
Progress on the stereo. Found, for free some home theater mid woofers that fit the bill exactly. While the magnet was just a 1/2" deeper otherwise it was totally bolt on other than the female connectors crimped on. Sounds pretty much like stock should i think, last thing is the rear 6.5's and itll be wrapped up! I also got my oem alt snorkel and rear mid tweeter trim cover in so that means im really close to 100% car!
I also did a mod so I used two washer sprayers instead of the one bi directional, as well as put on some pilot replacement sprayer nozzles that actually mist and not shoot lines.
I can now operate both front and rear sprayers without breaking anything.
I traded up a c4 coil for my mud flaps and installed it, works perfectly and feels really Smooth now! Actually brought my idle down to an almost acceptable 1100.
Hopefully hanging out with another member with a 165/205 swap this weelend to compare signals amd operation.
Love driving this car already!!!

 

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soarer.jzz30

New member
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So my compressor was seized and the clutch locked so my belt melted and snapped off, but I was planning to build my fan shroud and install the 68c sard t stat, so this gave me an opportunity to do so.
Also I couldn't find a decent spot to fit the smaller 7" fan so it'll be a spare for another day.
I'll be going to a junk yard to pick up a compressor from another car and get some new seals as well. Along with a new belt.
I am going to spray the shroud with some high heat black rattle can, and cut some small vents in it as well so it can flow when on the highway.

Also I may pick up an alternator because mine is making lot's of noise like a damn supercharger and it doesn't sound like the bearings, something inside sounds like it's touching maybe the brushes Idk.

The new large coil has made a good difference in sound and smoothness on acceleration. I also have a new cap and rotor to install so when I time it, it'll be spot on, ignition is pretty much complete at that point with the big 8mm wires and colder iridium plugs.

I may be getting an ebc for doing some work on a 165 of another member so that'll be great. I have an electronic analog boost gauge to install in the gauge cluster to replace the crap mechanical unit that is a decade old and cheap and innacurate as hell. Should have the boost control and monitoring completed once it's all in.

Picked up a new mr2 gen3 water temp sensor. Maybe this will solve my cel22 issue.
The cel 54 may be gone soon as I heard the relay clicking on and off while driving, seems there is a timing that it has to sit and idle for a certain amount of time before the pump "turns off". Then when pedal depressed turns back on, I'll triple check the patch and see if there is anything amiss.
I did the patch on a other members 165/205 swap and it worked fine once it was all in so I know I've got it right. My gas mileage and start up sucks because of the 22 so that's the priority, then onto the 54.
I did find the vacuum leak so that's taken care of it was in the a/c idle up little controller valve thing. Put a better worm gear on it and no problems so far.
I had some issues with the vac line coming off of the map sensor at night when I hit 14psi so I bought some little fuel system hose clamps and it hold great now.
 

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soarer.jzz30

New member
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soarer.jzz30

New member
Cars running great. Fp is running full time now on 17psi. Developing this lip kit for the car. Lots of stuff done between now and then. I may post about it, maybe not.
 

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soarer.jzz30

New member
A guy in a Mercedes rear ended me, a homeless man ran into my door, cel 54 came on, and cold side turbo oil seal is leaking.. All in one day. But. I have bc coilovers coming soon and a spare rear diff bushing to poly fill asap. Two problems solved but still many to fix
 
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