finally going to attempt to replace rear bushings

lalojamesliz1

New member
I bought some poly rear bushings and supra spherical bushings several months ago. I also bought wheel bearings for all 4 wheels just in case. I'm off the next 4 days so I think it's a good opportunity now. I'll search around but anyone have any advice?
I have a otc front end puller set, impact gun, otc hub grappler, a few large hammers and the usual sockets and other in a 5ft toolbox. I can rent a bearing press kit to use the metal cup things. I'm sure that's not what they are called but I'm sure you guys know what I mean :D
I need the torque specs too for the subframe if any one has them.
a while back when I rebuilt my read diff mount I remember one of the long bolts didn't want to tighten to the torque spec so I'll need to be careful with that one. one of my front control arm bolts stripped and I've ignored that too.... man I feel like I'm playing with fire on that one. I need to get a replacement for it but I always forget about it.
 

underscore

Well-known member
I'd say start with the worst stuff and go from there. That way if the control arm bolt takes up a bunch of your time you can just postpone the other stuff and do it later.
 

yyonline

Member
(4WD only)
Rear suspension lower crossmember–to–body
mounting bolts
Torque: 159 N–m (1,620 kgf–cm, 117 ft–lbf)
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":29kwgm5q said:
I'd say start with the worst stuff and go from there. That way if the control arm bolt takes up a bunch of your time you can just postpone the other stuff and do it later.

so your saying start by removing the control arms to the hub?
my all-trac doesn't have any visible rust/corrosion so that should help.
if I just want to replace the subframe bushings, can I just unbolt the diff from the subframe then support the diff and unbolt then pull out the subframe?
 

underscore

Well-known member
I haven't tried removing the subframe while leaving the diff, it might be doable but it might be easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and axles from the diff and take the diff with you.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":12fq153c said:
I haven't tried removing the subframe while leaving the diff, it might be doable but it might be easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and axles from the diff and take the diff with you.

oh, okay I see. I'm getting ready to pull my all-trac into my garage to start and I'll look at it better. I was curious on how I would support the diff in the middle while I lower the subframe since I'd like to support it from both sides as I lower it. I have two floor jacks and 4 stands but if the stands are holding up the car I wouldn't have anything to support the diff.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed
 

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underscore

Well-known member
My solid subframe bushings I tapped in with a mallet. Put everything in the freezer for a few days ahead of time to shrink them and it'll make install a lot easier. The control arm bushings need to be pressed in but I'm heard of a few tricks to try to do it without a press. Be liberal with that grease stuff in the tube, it makes a big difference.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
underscore":m1xilv49 said:
My solid subframe bushings I tapped in with a mallet. Put everything in the freezer for a few days ahead of time to shrink them and it'll make install a lot easier. The control arm bushings need to be pressed in but I'm heard of a few tricks to try to do it without a press. Be liberal with that grease stuff in the tube, it makes a big difference.

well it's been a long day.... I spent a lot of time cleaning up the oily dirt from the subframe and diff because of the leaking seal on the input shaft for the diff. Besides that everything came off very easily. i unbolted the control arms from the hub and when I pulled the bolts out they lifted up on their own.
loosening the axles was a bit hard but the driveshaft was a little too easy. those bolts weren't tight at all.
I used my otc tir rod/inner bearing race puller to press out the original bushings and I used a bolt that fastened the subframe to press in the poly bushings. I cut up some pieces of metal and welded my rear diff mount making it solid.
I'm painting it now and tomorrow it goes back together
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
I finished around noon and I'm happy to say that freaking clucking sound is GONE! I had my doubts because the bushings didn't look that bad to me but I guess they were gone.
thanks for the help guys
 
lalojamesliz1":3vkdlhby said:
this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed
Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
mickeyfinn":2ba7gil5 said:
lalojamesliz1":2ba7gil5 said:
this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed
Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.

both on Ebay. the bushings came from Poland and the spherical bushings from the UAE....
http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-celica-st165
 
lalojamesliz1":293ln6h0 said:
mickeyfinn":293ln6h0 said:
lalojamesliz1":293ln6h0 said:
this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed
Is your All trac an ST185? Where did you get the bushings and spherical bearings from?
I'm thinking to replace mine (ST165) Can't find the rear diff bushings anywhere.

both on Ebay. the bushings came from Poland and the spherical bushings from the UAE....
http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-celica-st165

Thanks for the GT4 link. Would you happen to have the ebay links for the bushings?
(I found the UAE one)
Thanks!
 
lalojamesliz1":1szk6l8p said:
this is all I have now. just lube them and push them in right? if they need to be pressed in, I'm screwed
Where did you get your subframe bushings from? How are they working for you (compared to your original rubber bushings)?

I see the answer to my first question later in your thread. Just want to know how the rear subframe bushings are working for you - I know you said the clunking is gone - how is the ride? More harsh? Softer? About the same?
 
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