Please help me rid of this notchy shifting

Junctrac

New member
Apparently there are some different size clutch slave and master cylinder sizes throughout the generations and if they get mismatched would cause problems:

viewtopic.php?t=52793

Im going to look into this myself as im having similar issues and nothing has helped yet.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
Junctrac":3jdau9yn said:
Apparently there are some different size clutch slave and master cylinder sizes throughout the generations and if they get mismatched would cause problems:

viewtopic.php?t=52793

Im going to look into this myself as im having similar issues and nothing has helped yet.

Nice find man! I've always had to press the pedal to the floor but even with the original trans..... :shrug:
Now I'm thinking it has to be the master cylinder seal not being 100%
I think I still have the st205 slave cylinder i got with the swap. If I do I'll measure it. I need to look into that extended rod since my rod might not be long enough :doh: :p
 
lalojamesliz1":1esq8csb said:
Any advice on bleeding the new master cylinder guys?
Rebuilt or new master cylinders typically come with plastic fittings that a small dia. clear tube connects to, which is long enough to run the opposite end into the reservoir. So withe the reservoir full and the master cylinder installed, but the brake lines not yet connected, one slowly pumps the brake pedal and slowly releases, and continues to do so until no air bubbles are ejected from the master. Once bled, remove the temporary bleeders and reconnect the regular brake lines (followed by bleeding the individual brake lines, of course).
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":10zsc9fk said:
lalojamesliz1":10zsc9fk said:
Any advice on bleeding the new master cylinder guys?
Rebuilt or new master cylinders typically come with plastic fittings that a small dia. clear tube connects to, which is long enough to run the opposite end into the reservoir. So withe the reservoir full and the master cylinder installed, but the brake lines not yet connected, one slowly pumps the brake pedal and slowly releases, and continues to do so until no air bubbles are ejected from the master. Once bled, remove the temporary bleeders and reconnect the regular brake lines (followed by bleeding the individual brake lines, of course).

Great. Thanks man
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
Well I replaced the master cylinder and it seems like it has improved but it's not completely gone. I set the linkage rod so it has the smallest amount of slack and I bled the hell out of the clutch line to be 100% sure it had no air. I was going to replace the hydraulic hose for it but after seeing it on the car, that's a larger project for another day The hose looks fine from the outside.
I need to drive it more but right now I saw too many police to want to cruise around. Plus the school buses are dropping off kids and will be for a while. Another time.
So what options are left guys? New shift cables and extended push rod or something right? Anything else before I can just accept that it can be my transmission? It still works fine but I just wanted it in worry free condition until I learn how to work on it or my original transmission. I haven't abused this transmission as in launching the car or used it to slow down by downshifting.
 
Let's check the cables. If cables are faulty, it will feel the same whether driving or parked, engine running or not. With car parked and engine not running, does it shift easily / normally?
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":3orbvv1s said:
Let's check the cables. If cables are faulty, it will feel the same whether driving or parked, engine running or not. With car parked and engine not running, does it shift easily / normally?

I just checked, it goes into gears fine.
 
I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.

Let's now look at the clutch system (clutch pedal through the throughout bearing). If there is a problem with the clutch system, it should be noticeable when the car is parked but engine running this time. Since we determined the shift cables/linkages are working properly, but we don't want to load the synchros right now, trying to shift gears when using the clutch with the engine running is the way to do just that.

Engine running, shifter not in gear, clutch released, the clutch should be spinning and the input shaft to the trans freewheeling. Step on the clutch and shift quickly into 1st - any issue? Shift back to neutral, release clutch. Then step on the clutch and shift quickly into 2nd - any issue? Repeat for all forward gears and also repeat for reverse. Don't let the car move in gear with the engine running. How does the shifting into gear feel now? Any particular gear causing more problems than another?

Actually, to add to this, if you have some grinding when trying to shift into reverse, that is a clear indication the clutch is not releasing the flywheel properly. That gets us to review the clutch system. And if this is the symptom, and its been like this for anything longer than a very short period of time, most likely many of your synchros are worn and damaged, because the synchros are doing more that trying to match speeds of moving gears in the trans of which one set should be free-wheeling - if that one set is still being driven by the engine, the synchros needs to work much, much harder and wear much, much faster.
 

alltrac801

New member
93celicaconv":4ca3keql said:
I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.

I have to disagree. My car shifted just fine while not driving with bad cables. When driving 2nd was hard to shift into and 4th was a little tough too.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
alltrac801":32unurnz said:
93celicaconv":32unurnz said:
I would say this rules out shift cables as a source of the symptoms.

I have to disagree. My car shifted just fine while not driving with bad cables. When driving 2nd was hard to shift into and 4th was a little tough too.

Did you get the cables from mr2heaven?
If you did, did they fix the shifting problem you had for 2nd and 4th? (iirc)
 

alltrac801

New member
So when I originally got cables I ordered a used pair from EBAY for way to much money but i really wanted my car back on the road. If i remember correctly they were from a GTS so i had to modify the mounting a little. I havent tried the MR2Heaven ones yet but they look great. And yes the used cables solved my problem 100 percent.

I have no idea if thats the problem you are having but i just want to share my experience to possibly help.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
alltrac801":14k5do3s said:
So when I originally got cables I ordered a used pair from EBAY for way to much money but i really wanted my car back on the road. If i remember correctly they were from a GTS so i had to modify the mounting a little. I havent tried the MR2Heaven ones yet but they look great. And yes the used cables solved my problem 100 percent.

I have no idea if thats the problem you are having but i just want to share my experience to possibly help.

Damn now I want to buy a new set :|
I was just getting over on the cost of the set of new esco jack stands I just bought. Can't put a price on safety lol
I better buy them before I damage my trans even more I guess :bangshead:
 

Magroo

New member
Just want to say inhave a very similar problem but mine is it won't go in to first at a dead stop unless I put it in second first.

Its probably worn syncros but I have a set pf used ebay cables in excellent condition I need to swap in when the weather gets a little warmer.

Another possibility I was thinking is the clutch fork pivot ball. I know they get worn and change clutch engagement. I havent checked mine yet.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
Magroo":4qu9nee4 said:
Just want to say inhave a very similar problem but mine is it won't go in to first at a dead stop unless I put it in second first.

Its probably worn syncros but I have a set pf used ebay cables in excellent condition I need to swap in when the weather gets a little warmer.

Another possibility I was thinking is the clutch fork pivot ball. I know they get worn and change clutch engagement. I havent checked mine yet.

If the cables haven't failed, can someone tell they are beginning to fail by looking at them? I didn't mind taking a chance on a new master cylinder for $40 but $204 for cables is hard to do not knowing if it will fix my problem :(
The pivot ball on my trans looked fine on my e154f trans before I installed that trans.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
Does anyone know someone who has successfully rebuilt one of these transmissions? Can the parts still be purchased? I remember seeing a parts list that showed the part numbers for each transmission but I didn't know what parts exactly are needed and one of everything was $$$ :D
 
So have you discontinued your diagnostic progression to try to find out your root cause problem?

There are seal/gasket kits available for engines and transaxle assemblies for these vintage vehicles (at least there were, not sure if they are available). But when it comes to transaxle rebuilds, the items worn can only be ID'd during disassembly. If you are asking if you went on the assumption something internally is wrong in the transmission, and you took it out and started tearing it apart and found worn stuff, would the stuff that is worn be available anymore, I agree, it would be good to know.

I don't think you've concluded your root cause yet. I think your cables are fine, based upon the test you did (others appear to have differing opinions on that - you have to decide who you think is best to guide you). Your hydraulics and your clutch setup hasn't been worked through yet. You may have put a new clutch master cylinder in, but you have a clutch slave cylinder, air in fluid lines, adjustments in clutch linkages, etc. I would work through those first. If your clutch isn't properly disengaging from your flywheel when the engine is running, that would cause very similar symptoms you are experiencing. But from what I've read in this thread so far, you haven't done the testing to determine if that could be a probable cause, yet.
 

lalojamesliz1

New member
93celicaconv":1zzcxc4q said:
So have you discontinued your diagnostic progression to try to find out your root cause problem?

There are seal/gasket kits available for engines and transaxle assemblies for these vintage vehicles (at least there were, not sure if they are available). But when it comes to transaxle rebuilds, the items worn can only be ID'd during disassembly. If you are asking if you went on the assumption something internally is wrong in the transmission, and you took it out and started tearing it apart and found worn stuff, would the stuff that is worn be available anymore, I agree, it would be good to know.

I don't think you've concluded your root cause yet. I think your cables are fine, based upon the test you did (others appear to have differing opinions on that - you have to decide who you think is best to guide you). Your hydraulics and your clutch setup hasn't been worked through yet. You may have put a new clutch master cylinder in, but you have a clutch slave cylinder, air in fluid lines, adjustments in clutch linkages, etc. I would work through those first. If your clutch isn't properly disengaging from your flywheel when the engine is running, that would cause very similar symptoms you are experiencing. But from what I've read in this thread so far, you haven't done the testing to determine if that could be a probable cause, yet.

I haven't given up, I was just busy with valentine's day yesterday.
I was able to try shifting into gears and back out quickly last night before I left to work and I didn't have any issues. I need to try it again when I get up later today so I can focus on that better.
I replaced the slave cylinder not long ago a d probably 1k miles ago or close to that. Air being in the line is something I doubt because I bled the line a lot until I was absolutely sure no more air was in the line.
I need to experiment with the linkage more I guess.
 
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