HOYS' ST185 Res-Q
- Thread starter hoys
- Start date
Parts keep rolling in so I keep putting them on.
The fuel line body side to the tank had some wonky threads. Ordered a M14x1.5 die and cleaned them up. The new radium fitting so far seems to seal well.
Stealth Pump test fit into hanger. Stainless zip ties make this install look much nicer than the old way of hose clamps. I might have to clearance a bit of the bottom part of the hanger to make the sock fit well.
I'm also debating removing the capacitor and simplify the wiring. I feel these new pumps might not put as much noise into the system like the older pumps.
The fuel line body side to the tank had some wonky threads. Ordered a M14x1.5 die and cleaned them up. The new radium fitting so far seems to seal well.
Stealth Pump test fit into hanger. Stainless zip ties make this install look much nicer than the old way of hose clamps. I might have to clearance a bit of the bottom part of the hanger to make the sock fit well.
I'm also debating removing the capacitor and simplify the wiring. I feel these new pumps might not put as much noise into the system like the older pumps.
Pump and upgraded rear lines fully installed.
Using PTFE With adapters really gets close to the minimum bend radius of PTFE lines
The line itself is pretty short, add in the length of the adapters and its even shorter!
I'm not the best AN line assembler so the fittings aren't the prettiest. They are under the car so practice for the in-bay line.
The pump is certainly audible, but the fuel level is low from draining the tank. I'll try to upload a somewhat sped up video of the process of installing etc.
Using PTFE With adapters really gets close to the minimum bend radius of PTFE lines
The line itself is pretty short, add in the length of the adapters and its even shorter!
I'm not the best AN line assembler so the fittings aren't the prettiest. They are under the car so practice for the in-bay line.
The pump is certainly audible, but the fuel level is low from draining the tank. I'll try to upload a somewhat sped up video of the process of installing etc.
Picked up a ST205 trans for the inevitable clutch replacement time. As far as I can tell the car still has a stock clutch. With the extra torque I'm planning I'm sure that I'll be replacing it sooner rather than later.
Everything is off the exhaust side of the engine. Getting my manifold machined flat hopefully tomorrow. Then it and the exhaust housing are going to ceramic coat. Once those are back I should be able to install everything on the exhaust side.
Next up is replacing the fuel injectors with the ID1050x's, plumbing the new fuel lines and rail, and installing new valve cover gaskets.
Everything is off the exhaust side of the engine. Getting my manifold machined flat hopefully tomorrow. Then it and the exhaust housing are going to ceramic coat. Once those are back I should be able to install everything on the exhaust side.
Next up is replacing the fuel injectors with the ID1050x's, plumbing the new fuel lines and rail, and installing new valve cover gaskets.
I'm basically at the same point you are with the fuel lines and pumps. I'm currently using denso 850cc injectors but I'm thinking about picking up some of these from Snake Eater Performance.
https://www.snakeeaterperformance.com/p ... 1000cc-min
I watch a lot of YouTube, like more than is healthy. One of the channels I really like is Sloppy Mechanics. He mainly deals with LS stuff but hes been testing SEP injectors for over a year with no issues.
Other thing is, are you upgrading the wiring for the fuel pump? I just dropped in a denso unit for a supra TT that flows around 280lph. After doing some reading up on it I started to get a little nervous the stock wiring wouldn't be able to handle the 20 amps this pump wants.
I don't know what the stock wiring is but it looks to be around 14 gauge? I ordered some new 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp relay and fuse holder. I'm just going to use the stock wiring and trigger the relay off that. My battery is already in the trunk/hatch so its only going to be like 5 feet of wire.
Oh one more thing, I'm guessing the capacitor there is to smooth out any electrical noise the pump makes. It might also be there for any kind of a sudden surge like when you first start the car.
https://www.snakeeaterperformance.com/p ... 1000cc-min
I watch a lot of YouTube, like more than is healthy. One of the channels I really like is Sloppy Mechanics. He mainly deals with LS stuff but hes been testing SEP injectors for over a year with no issues.
Other thing is, are you upgrading the wiring for the fuel pump? I just dropped in a denso unit for a supra TT that flows around 280lph. After doing some reading up on it I started to get a little nervous the stock wiring wouldn't be able to handle the 20 amps this pump wants.
I don't know what the stock wiring is but it looks to be around 14 gauge? I ordered some new 10 gauge wire and a 30 amp relay and fuse holder. I'm just going to use the stock wiring and trigger the relay off that. My battery is already in the trunk/hatch so its only going to be like 5 feet of wire.
Oh one more thing, I'm guessing the capacitor there is to smooth out any electrical noise the pump makes. It might also be there for any kind of a sudden surge like when you first start the car.
After doing a good bit of reading on injectors I really didn't want to skimp. There are a lot of variables that can make injectors very skewed even if they are "flowed" together. I highly suggest going for a nicer set. I really like Matt's approach to things. He has helped simplify and get people using things and doing things they normally wouldn't. In the realm of junk yard LS "go get another one for 250 bucks and swap it in over the weekend" his attitude works. The older I get the more into the "do it once right" camp I slide. I have the capability to spend a few more dollars on top of the line parts, I'll buy better parts.
Calculating voltage drop and referencing a few standards for safe limits of wire, I think I'm on the hairy edge of safety with the pump wiring. I think the most my pump will see is about 16 amps. The ground connection is relatively close to the pump (point BL in the wiring diagram) so there isn't that much of a run. Maybe 2-2.5 meters? I'll certainly check out that ground to make sure it is clean before going much further. With these older cars, relying on the chassis to be an entirely good ground is never a safe bet anyway..
Also I'll note that every part I've bought (past maintenance items like gaskets etc.) are directly usable with a future engine setup with enough headroom to be plenty power for me. As much as I want to have big HP numbers I've become more reasonable in my approach to big numbers. Build something reliable and streetable and you'll have plenty of fun. I think the most fun I've had driving a modified car was one that was just lightly modified with good street manners.
Most likely an upgrade to fuel pump wiring is in my future. I'm trying to do as much as possible without modifying too much. I've gone "full bore" before on tossing every part at a car and I ended up going "I don't like this". A fuel pump rewire for me with the battery under the hood is a bit more involved. It might come down to it sooner than I'm expecting so I've already done some planning on that end.
Exhaust manifold is at the machine shop getting machined flat again.
I've been ultra sonic cleaning the oil cooler and oil cooler base. I'll be flushing it with diesel or ATF before reinstalling. Coming from the Subaru world, they just always replace them at the drop of a hat. We don't have that kind of parts availability for these engines and I didn't suffer a turbo failure so I'm not worried about debris in the heat exchanger plates.
While everything is going off to coating, I'll hopefully be able to crack into the fuel system this weekend to get it all sorted.
Calculating voltage drop and referencing a few standards for safe limits of wire, I think I'm on the hairy edge of safety with the pump wiring. I think the most my pump will see is about 16 amps. The ground connection is relatively close to the pump (point BL in the wiring diagram) so there isn't that much of a run. Maybe 2-2.5 meters? I'll certainly check out that ground to make sure it is clean before going much further. With these older cars, relying on the chassis to be an entirely good ground is never a safe bet anyway..
Also I'll note that every part I've bought (past maintenance items like gaskets etc.) are directly usable with a future engine setup with enough headroom to be plenty power for me. As much as I want to have big HP numbers I've become more reasonable in my approach to big numbers. Build something reliable and streetable and you'll have plenty of fun. I think the most fun I've had driving a modified car was one that was just lightly modified with good street manners.
Most likely an upgrade to fuel pump wiring is in my future. I'm trying to do as much as possible without modifying too much. I've gone "full bore" before on tossing every part at a car and I ended up going "I don't like this". A fuel pump rewire for me with the battery under the hood is a bit more involved. It might come down to it sooner than I'm expecting so I've already done some planning on that end.
Exhaust manifold is at the machine shop getting machined flat again.
I've been ultra sonic cleaning the oil cooler and oil cooler base. I'll be flushing it with diesel or ATF before reinstalling. Coming from the Subaru world, they just always replace them at the drop of a hat. We don't have that kind of parts availability for these engines and I didn't suffer a turbo failure so I'm not worried about debris in the heat exchanger plates.
While everything is going off to coating, I'll hopefully be able to crack into the fuel system this weekend to get it all sorted.
Everything to get ceramic coated is out the door.
I mocked up an adapter to allow the gen2 oil cooler to be mounted to an off the shelf oil filter bypass adapter so I can flush it out before reinstalling. I'd ideally like to get this machined but I can't find anyone that will do it within a reasonable time frame and price. I need a lathe
Watching the newest episode of Project Binky has me worried. I have the same fuel rail and injectors as they do and they make a big stink about them not fitting...I'll see what happens when I get there I guess..
I mocked up an adapter to allow the gen2 oil cooler to be mounted to an off the shelf oil filter bypass adapter so I can flush it out before reinstalling. I'd ideally like to get this machined but I can't find anyone that will do it within a reasonable time frame and price. I need a lathe
Watching the newest episode of Project Binky has me worried. I have the same fuel rail and injectors as they do and they make a big stink about them not fitting...I'll see what happens when I get there I guess..
metalworker
Member
Love that Binky series. I always get nervous with injector swaps. If the cone angles and port geometry aren’t understood, can run into issues with bore wash and/or poor fuel atomization.
How well can the ID1050s be controlled at low flows? 1050cc is good for 500+hp. Cylinder to cylinder variation and control at low loads comes to mind... hence why you see often multiple injectors on high BMEP engines from the factory. I’m sure you’ve thought it through...
Have any intel on that fancy fuel pressure regulator on Binky? Variable pressure may come in handy!
How well can the ID1050s be controlled at low flows? 1050cc is good for 500+hp. Cylinder to cylinder variation and control at low loads comes to mind... hence why you see often multiple injectors on high BMEP engines from the factory. I’m sure you’ve thought it through...
Have any intel on that fancy fuel pressure regulator on Binky? Variable pressure may come in handy!
metalworker":3jl37a0z said:
The 1050X's are certainly regarded as the "best injector money can buy" for this HP range. I like the basis of starting with a Bosch core and going from there. Bosch injectors aren't matched from the factory as far as I know. Digging deeply into all of the other injectors on the market I wasn't really happy with the lack of information on them. The ID's are flowed all across the operating range so the control at lower RPMs should be better than others. Most of the time when injectors are "flow matched" its just at one data point.
I'm certainly hoping to get close to the power rating of these injectors...probably not on this engine but the injectors can easily be reused in a different setup.
The neat setup in Binky I think just requests more current to the pump if it notices fuel pressure is dropping when it should be maintaining or rising. This could easily be done with a standalone controlling a pump or pump controller via PWM while sensing fuel pressure. I think incorporating a fuel flow meter would be pretty fun to do as well. As is, using the stock wiring is going to be probably the weakest point of the car, so an upgrade or new solution for that is coming sooner rather than later.
Also a huge binky fan.
They or you won't be the first 2L car with 1000cc injectors Tons of people run that setup...Sure they have the fancy regulator and pump but it's not needed.
I think with a good injector like you have it won't cause you any trouble down low, like idle for example. Are you tuning the car yourself?
They or you won't be the first 2L car with 1000cc injectors Tons of people run that setup...Sure they have the fancy regulator and pump but it's not needed.
I think with a good injector like you have it won't cause you any trouble down low, like idle for example. Are you tuning the car yourself?
abeans":b832cyu5 said:
I "tuned" it myself to get it running and I'm thinking of continuing now that I understand the process flow of how the ECUMaster ECU handles calculations and adders. I certainly don't consider myself a tuner (more like a TOONer) but I know this engine has a limited life span so it would be good to learn.
Oil cooler is flushed and ready for installation.
The AC worked when the car was pulled out of storage but it failed on my last year. Digging around the internet I've found some of the common failure points and I'm going to try and eliminate them. The system was still R-12. Checking with the dealer the AC Expansion Valve recall of 1993 was completed on the car. I have the Toyota R-12 to R-134 conversion kit on order with a new Denso dryer. I believe the compressor seals are shot. I'll be opening it up and replacing the seals. I don't believe that the compressor internals are damaged. The 10PA compressors from Denso are pretty prolific so there are lots of resources available. Having AC in this weather will be my top priority
Ceramic coated exhaust components should be coming back to me soon.
The AC worked when the car was pulled out of storage but it failed on my last year. Digging around the internet I've found some of the common failure points and I'm going to try and eliminate them. The system was still R-12. Checking with the dealer the AC Expansion Valve recall of 1993 was completed on the car. I have the Toyota R-12 to R-134 conversion kit on order with a new Denso dryer. I believe the compressor seals are shot. I'll be opening it up and replacing the seals. I don't believe that the compressor internals are damaged. The 10PA compressors from Denso are pretty prolific so there are lots of resources available. Having AC in this weather will be my top priority
Ceramic coated exhaust components should be coming back to me soon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5uvOvqCBAHI
A quick overview video of installing the fuel pump and making the feed line
A quick overview video of installing the fuel pump and making the feed line
Pulled the AC compressor. I'm very positive it was the main culprit of the AC system failure.
You can see the speed sensor at the bottom is leaking the most. Also the crush washers sealing the front cylinder head have lost all of their sealing ability. The normal manifold gasket is leaking as well. This is also with already spraying and scrubbing part of it while it was still on the car.
You can see the speed sensor at the bottom is leaking the most. Also the crush washers sealing the front cylinder head have lost all of their sealing ability. The normal manifold gasket is leaking as well. This is also with already spraying and scrubbing part of it while it was still on the car.
AC compressor rebuilt. A pretty easy process. Make sure to replace the O Rings on the speed (lock) sensor and on the back housing's bypass manifold.
System is still leaking somewhere. Seeing how bad all of the orings were on the compressor I'm going to go through and replace as many as I can on the system to see if it fixes the leak. The leak is certainly slower than usual.
System is still leaking somewhere. Seeing how bad all of the orings were on the compressor I'm going to go through and replace as many as I can on the system to see if it fixes the leak. The leak is certainly slower than usual.
As expected after watching the Binky video about the ID 1050x injectors, they hit the bosses in the cylinder pretty hard. Contacted ID and they are shipping me adapters to try and move the injector body upwards. It looks like this is a configurable option from the get go, just isn't the listed part number for the 3SGTE.
https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/wp-co ... .14B.4.jpg
The PN is 1050.60.14.14B. Has both a top and bottom "hat".
https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/wp-co ... .14B.4.jpg
The PN is 1050.60.14.14B. Has both a top and bottom "hat".
underscore
Well-known member
hoys":1sha14dk said:
I would not have thought to do that when reinstalling my AC so thanks for pointing that out.
underscore":19uedx2c said:
A few sneaky ones: High pressure side sensor is not a tapered thread but uses an O-Ring to seal. Use a wrench on the line's fitting when removing to make sure you don't twist the crap out of the line.
There are also four in the cabin on both sides of the expansion valve. I haven't done those but I figure they are in better shape than the ones in the engine bay. Also my vehicle had the expansion valve recall done in 1993 so it has newer rings than most of the system...kinda :wink:
I just grabbed a universal A/C O-Ring kit from the local parts store and it had everything I needed.
After testing some more I believe that the system is actually sealing well under vacuum its just the manifold gauge set I have isn't the best. That's what I get for buying the cheap stuff
underscore
Well-known member
Are the expansion valve ones somewhat accessible or does a bunch of stuff need to be pulled out to get to them? I've had the lines open for ~8 years and the firewall connectors have been totally exposed for the last 4 which I'm guessing isn't great for them.