RORERI: A JDM 1992 ST185H-BLMVZ

I see the photos now! thanks for the feedback.
I used a washer too since I found the triangle to be a bit short as well. I put it on the top, but maybe it (or two, or 3 washers...) needs to go on the bottom instead to fix the angle.
thank you

You're welcome--Glad to be of help instead of asking for help!

Threw on the first coat of wax of the season. Looking good!


I've been running the Lorelei at the high boost setting on my boost controller the past three days. All is well. Making up to 15 lbs of boost, which I use sparingly. Between that and the weight reduction of 70 lbs I dropped, it's got a noticeable amount more go. It runs what I would consider properly rich at high boost--in the low 11:1 range.

Had a great conversation with a random passerby on my way from the parking garage to the office. He was really excited to ask a bunch of questions about the Lorelei, at the end of which he said I'd made his day. Then his head about exploded when I told him it was a FWD AllTrac. An AllTrac or GT-Four will make friends.

When I removed the rear seats the other day, I found a sticker.


040318 indicates that the Lorelei was built Heisei 4 (1992) March 18. I don't know what E0 means. That was a nice little find.

I did a little research on the OZ Cronos. Mine are obviously white painted silver (it's flaking) with decals applied. It's kinda too bad OZ discontinued the line. I gotta look into a repaint sometime. A long time ago eddie_GT4 in Lithuania had his hands on a set of them in exactly the same size as mine (5x100 7x16") and claimed they were about 9.6kg (21.12lbs) each. A bit heavy (maybe by modern standards) and these OZ wheels are reputed to be very soft.

I'm not really tempted to get rid of the Cronos because they are classic af for the fifth gen GT-Four. But if ever I were to go with something else, these Enkei PF05s would be pretty nice, at 7.02kg (15.45lbs) each. If the old school Cronos are in fact 21lbs each (I have some doubts as that seems very heavy), dropping 22 lbs of unsprung weight would be nice. I 'd be even more tempted if they did these in a light silver though the dark silver is still pretty nice.


Currently waiting on a set of Feal 441s, some front end parts, and a hood and radiator grill from Carbon Microsystems.

Whoo-hoo! These arrived today. For those of you who are ordering them as part of the group buy, you'll be happy to know that these ooze quality. They are substantial units. I got mine with the radial bearing mounts to benefit from less noise--or so I was promised.

I'll set forth to install these from Thursday through Sunday. I'm taking a couple of days off, so I hope to get it all sorted by Friday evening so I can give it a test drive this weekend. I'll dig around for info about how to proceed, but if anyone has any tips or tricks, I'd appreciate it!

I presently have Cusco camber plates installed in the front. I'll be curious how they might work with the Feal 441 front coilovers to allow me to adjust camber. I imagine it's just a simple matter of taking off the top plates included with my fronts and replacing them with the Cusco plate and pillowball nut. Or, as it appears that the top of the Feal 441 fronts have a camber plate already integrated, it may be moot/better to roll with the already installed camber plate. If so, I'll have a pair of camber plates to hold onto in case I ever need to send the Feals in for upgrade or refurb.


Trying to figure out how many degrees five ticks is. .2 per tick would be 1 degree. Or does it depend on ride height? In any case, the notches provide a way to know they're both set the same.

Onto some projections of how handling and road feel will change. Based on this old guide: https://www.alltrac.net/tuning/springfaq.html stock springs are 123/168 (2.25k/3k).


I believe I might presently have the TRD lowering springs (or comparable) in front, because the drop in front matches what's said these drop. In the rear, I have a set of KYB Climb Gear struts installed. It only makes sense that the previous owner would have got the KYB Climb Gear inserts for the front, too. Old equipment but this little blurb here http://www.kybweb.com/kybes/new_pilot/j ... _gear.html says that these “entry level” performance struts offer 180% OEM compression, which would be 302lbs/in or 5.4k in the rear.

So…by research I figure I’m currently running at 4k/5.4k. 8k/5k will be quite the difference in front. That old guide says 550lb/in / 350lb/in (10k/6k) is a good street coilover.

When I start taking things apart I'll see what I have installed and the differences in handling feel.

Coilover Install Day One:

I got home from work and I was ready to work! I went and got a breaker bar, a torque wrench, a tube of medium strength Locktite, and a can of silver caliper paint. I figured that since I was down in there, I might as well touch things up. I know red is a common caliper paint choice, but I decided on silver as in keeping with the Lorelei's black and silver color scheme. I'll paint the embossed TOYOTA with my little bottle of Toyota 202 Black.

Getting the driver's side OEM strut uninstalled was as much as I had time for today, but the process went pretty smoothly. I was momentarily confused by the C clip securing the brake line but I figured it out. You just press on where it bends up and push it up off the brake line. Then, the bracket is still closed to hold the brake like in, but you can bend it to open it up to get the brake line free.


Along the way, I found out:

1. I have four different kinds of lug nuts requiring a 19mm socket, a 22mm socket, and a 3/4" socket. Sheesh! I'll be regularizing that with something, sometime. All but three on the front wheels are a nice old style and much loved and scuffed up set of BBS lug nuts. The remainder are unidentifiable. I haven't had any luck finding BBS replacements on eBay. They'll turn up eventually.

2. A breaker bar is the shit. I should have had one sooner. I have one now.

3. The bump stops--such as they once were--on the front struts are GONE. Rotted away.

4. The OEM MacPherson struts weigh about 20.5 lbs. The Feal front coilovers weigh 12.7lbs--7.8lbs lighter each! So, you'll drop 15.5lbs off the front of your car by installing these.


5. The OZ Crono wheels are indeed heavy. 22lbs each. A set of Enkei PF05s are in my future as my summer tire wheels--that will drop about 23lbs of unsprung weight for half the year. I'll leave the Blizzaks I intend to buy when I move to Colorado on the OZ Cronos.

6. The OEM(?) front springs were not marked in any way and I was unable to determine much about how the Lorelei's front ride height had been set. I could see a little threading at the tube sticking out at the top. I suspect that the previous owner just rotated the tube down without regard to how this would affect overall ride comfort.

7. The top plates for the 441s don't have any sort of notching or visual aids for setting and matching camber. So, that will take some thinking.

Tomorrow, I'm going to do some figuring out about how to set ride height and matching up the front coilovers and see whether I can get the fronts on. There might be some trial and error on setting the ride height.

I haven't done a strut install on our cars yet, but I've taken that c clip off plenty. I find that using channel locks and gripping the raised end while applying a rocking/twisting motion will break it free easily. Some light taps with a hammer will get it back in place when the time is right.

When setting your height, it would be a good idea to rock the car around a bit, jump up and down on the door sills, roll it back and forth just a lil bit in order to try to settle it as best you can. I'm sure the bgb has a procedure for replacing struts and measuring height, but it'll probably require a sst like a wood block or something

Don't forget to suspend the brake calipers with a bungee cord/twine or whatever so that the caliper isn't hanging by the brake line.

Keep up the good work!

Roreri":2qhvimbv said:

1. I have four different kinds of lug nuts requiring a 19mm socket, a 22mm socket, and a 3/4" socket.

Click to expand...

Hey at least it would be difficult for someone to steal your wheels!

Thanks grip-addict! I found that a little PB Blaster and some taps with a polyurethane hammer on the handle of a flat tip screwdriver did the trick on that C-clamp. I had a handy bucket to lay the caliper on. Jeez, could you imagine letting the caliper hang by the brake line? Talk about asking for disaster!


Underscore: Yeah riiiiight? They'd be like wtf!

Anyway, I got the fronts on. The process went so well that I had time to paint the calipers and rotors (not the part where the brake pads make contact!).


So, I just put them on as they came from Feal. That is to say, the bottom of the tube was recessed 1 and 1/4" up into the bottom receiver. I think I can provide some service for the folks who are getting these in the group buy: If you want stock ride height, rotate the threaded tube so that the bottom of it is recessed 1 and 3/4" inch up into the bottom receiver. That is with 205/50R16 tires. Do your own math if your tires are different, I guess.


The front is 5/8" lower than stock height. It started out 1/2" lower than stock height but settled down a further 1/8" after a couple of test drives.

The ride quality is much improved. Bumps which had a tendency to be cringey were MUCH settled down. I left the dampening at the preset which is dead center of the range.

In other news, as I got down in there for the left front, I discovered that the outer CV Boot had failed. I have a temporary country boy fix on there right now. I know I can get kits to replace it, but I called a shop to see what it would cost and they were like "None of our warehouses have anything in stock. Normally with this kind of thing we recommend replacing the whole axle." I laughed and said "That's egregious. I'll be doing this myself then." Just for shits and giggles I have a dealership looking into it for me, too.

Today I am getting after the rears.

Back in the day, it used to be way cost-of-time effective to just replace the axle. They were accessible at virtually any parts store for like 50-70 bucks. They might still be accessible btw, so don't write it off.
Truth be told though, if a cv isn't making a bunch of noise and there's no dirt but still grease in there, it should be fine to re-use. Parts stores have generic bellows you can cut up/metal zip tie to fit over the original failed boot. Just get some grease in there and move the cv around a bunch to try to work it in.

If you have to replace it after all, the job's pretty easy since you already have the struts out. Just know that it'll leak some transmission fluid when the old axle comes out.

Good work btw, keep the updates coming!

Toyota quoted me $96 for the CV Boot part. 3-4 days delivery from Oregon where the last OEM CV boots in the world are, which I am sure are totally not old and brittle are being hoarded. Toyota made a car that outlasted their interest in it. Same old story the world around.

So, I got the rear tires off. Caliper and lower strut bolts came off just fine, but the bolt connecting the strut to the sway bar is being a hassle. Turns but doesn't come out. Any tips on that one?


I've tried pulling out on it, I've tried holding the backside, nothing works.

EDIT: Allright. I got it. There's a hex key lock screw in the center of the nut. Rotate it full counter clockwise to disengage it, then the nut will come loose.

So, the left rear coilover went on no real problem. The biggest hassle is getting the C-clip back on the bracket. There is a rubber o ring that I assume is meant to go around the actual brake line and sit in the bracket. All well and good, but the whole line assembly would be subject to vibration. I suppose it could be locked down by a little glue or RTV or whatever, but that was a no go for me. The C Clip can go back on, but it takes some bending of the Feal brake line bracket.

The right rear...well...how screwed am I?


While putting the caliper on the bucket to let it sit, I brushed against the outside of the pad, pushing it in. I am now looking up how to get it reset back out so that I can get it back onto the rotor.

So, my advice? Be careful about how you're handling the caliper when it's off the rotor unless you want to research how to sort that out.

Roreri":3j1jh7oh said:

So, the left rear coilover went on no real problem. The biggest hassle is getting the C-clip back on the bracket. There is a rubber o ring that I assume is meant to go around the actual brake line and sit in the bracket. All well and good, but the whole line assembly would be subject to vibration. I suppose it could be locked down by a little glue or RTV or whatever, but that was a no go for me. The C Clip can go back on, but it takes some bending of the Feal brake line bracket.

The right rear...well...how screwed am I?


While putting the caliper on the bucket to let it sit, I brushed against the outside of the pad, pushing it in. I am now looking up how to get it reset back out so that I can get it back onto the rotor.

So, my advice? Be careful about how you're handling the caliper when it's off the rotor unless you want to research how to sort that out.

Click to expand...

there should be a spring steep clip, move that in and slide the pad back. the one thing if it popped out is the spring under the caliper top, make sure those are still there. little buggers go flying if they hop off the pads

The clips didn't fly off so I can be grateful for that. After some fiddling, I was able to get the brake pad back in, but now I have this issue.


The inboard pad seems recessed, and the caliper cannot come out any more. The result is that I cannot put the caliper back on the rotor. I'm working it.

You actually managed to unbolt one of the factory-style sway bar links? What is this sorcery?

The nut is mounted onto a threaded rod which is keyed for a hex head. Apply penetrating oil, wait. Then place a close ended wrench around the nut, isolate the hex keyed rod with an alan wrench, and apply counterclockwise action to the nut. It will come loose.

If you attempt turn the nut by itself, it will simply turn the whole assembly.

I’m still trying to figure out this stupid caliper. It’s like I need the outboard side to move a little more outboard but it won’t go. I can just start to get it onto the rotor but it’s right on the surface and so it would be like it was engaged if I were to force it.

EDIT: I got it figured out. C clamps to press the caliper open. One on each side.

In theory yeah that's how they come apart. In reality I've always had the allen wrench slip, bash knuckles, swearing, try again, slip again, more swearing, try again, totally stripped, give up, hack saw.

I got both of the rear sway bar link bolts off. The Devil will come for my soul some sunny afternoon while I am out on a drive in the Lorelei I fear.

I have both of the rears installed. A couple of observations:

1. Yes that sway bar nut was confusing as hell for a while. I was like “I’m turning and turning and nothing’s happening.” Then I took a closer look at it and knew what to do. I guess I got lucky in that the nut and bolt weren’t hard fuzed to each other. Some PB Blaster on it and an hour to let it work in did the trick.

2. A jack under the rear wheel assembly allowed me to get into position to put it back together.

3. For the love of all that is holy do not dislodge the brake pad from the caliper and then inadvertently compress the caliper like a clod unless you have a desire to learn what needing three hands is like and you have some sizable C clamps on hand.

4. The brake line bracket on the 441 is a pain in the ass. One, it’s positioned in such a way as to suggest that their rubber o-ring around the brake line solution is good. It would allow the brake line to vibrate and I’m not of the opinion that it’s a good idea to diverge from the system of hard fixing the brake line at the junction using the C clip which has allowed my brake lines to survive 30 years. Two, if you think as I do, you’re going to have to do some bending, clip manipulation, and swearing in a tight space.

Here's how it looks after installing the rears. Wow, that back is a little high.


24 and 13/16" ground to front fender
27 and 1/8" ground to rear fender (2 and 5/16" rake front to back)

My initial impressions are that I'll go down 1/2" in the front, and down 1" or 1 and 1/2" in the back. Though frankly I have no major issues with it as it is. I might wait until I get the CF hood and lightweight battery installed--that will relieve the front end of about 60lbs which might change my equation some.

Front camber is set to maximum allowable, which is roughly what I had before with the Cusco pillowball camber plates.

For information's sake:

To get 24 and 13/16" ground to fender on the front, with 205/50R16 tires, the bottom of the threaded tube should be recessed into the lower receiver 1 and 1/4"

To get 27 and 1/8" ground to fender on the rear, with 205/50R16 tires, the bottom of the threaded tube should be recessed into the lower receiver 3 and 1/4" (if I would have done some math, I would have known that the rake would be in excess of 2 inches. Duh on my part. I was distracted.)

The 6km test drive went without problems. The ride quality is improved and no more noises--in general--from the suspension. Caveat below. I have no major complaints. Some aspects of the install could have gone a little smoother--my main complaint is the brake line brackets which were a little hassle for my preferences. I didn't paint the calipers and rotors on the rear--and boy you sure can tell by the rusty rotor!

One thing I will say, the front coilovers are talky at low speed. Grinding noises. Even with the radial bearings that promised to eliminate that. I don't know whether I need to do something to fix that, or whether I just need to get used to it. I'd appreciate some advice on that because it's annoying to have spent $100 extra to have that. I sounds jank.

EDIT: I quickly assessed that the CV joints were likely the source of these noises and will replace the CV axles.

Hopefully, my account will be of use to the other members who got in on the group buy.

Roreri":3fj0j6ua said:

The clips didn't fly off so I can be grateful for that. After some fiddling, I was able to get the brake pad back in, but now I have this issue.


The inboard pad seems recessed, and the caliper cannot come out any more. The result is that I cannot put the caliper back on the rotor. I'm working it.

Click to expand...

Calipers are on the sliding pins, move those out a little and you can adjust. If the inside pad is too far out, you need to grab a C clamp or caliper depressor and spin it back in. Pro tip: pop the reservoir open when you do it.

edit: looks like you got it done. congrats!

Roreri":3fj0j6ua said:

One thing I will say, the front coilovers are talky at low speed. Grinding noises. Even with the radial bearings that promised to eliminate that. I don't know whether I need to do something to fix that, or whether I just need to get used to it. I'd appreciate some advice on that because it's annoying to have spent $100 extra to have that. I sounds jank.

Hopefully, my account will be of use to the other members who got in on the group buy.

Click to expand...

What do you mean by "talky" by the way? You check your rotor shields to make sure it wasn't rubbing? If they squeak that could be it, check your bolts too, make sure everything is tight.

Tippo":2vvcdfi5 said:

What do you mean by "talky" by the way? You check your rotor shields to make sure it wasn't rubbing? If they squeak that could be it, check your bolts too, make sure everything is tight.

Click to expand...

They pop and grind. Exactly the way they shouldn’t with radial bearings.

I will do all of that which you recommend.

Yeah definitely check everything over, I had a clunk that I thought was my BCs that was actually the rear LCA nut being loose.

I went and got the Lorelei aligned after installing the Feal 441 coilover set. Since I used the $100 Gift certificate it won at a Cars and Coffee last October that was only $21.

I discovered that the outboard left CV boot was busted, so I was going to use a Dorman split CV boot kit to replace the boot. I got the outer left CV boot off, and saw that the CV joint was still well packed with grease. But then as I was down there looking around, I saw that both inboard CV boots are cracked. So, I'll be doing both front axles. I'm advised this will be a couple hour job and to break the 6 Allen head bolts loose first before anything else. I think in the end it will just be time saved down the road to replace the CV axles and get new rubber down there.

And, that might have been the sound I was hearing when turning the wheel at low speeds, as opposed to the coilovers, though I only really started noticing it when I changed to the coilovers.

At least I'll get the money back for the Dorman split CV boot kit.

One great thing about having a Celica is that there's a video about how to do this from a Celica fan:

https://youtu.be/bH98nX8fb6M

I was initially looking at a pair of CarQuest #NCV69511 units, but only one was available nearby.

I found these NAPA NCV944000 units which I can pick up on Monday:


That gives me all week plus the coming weekend to get them replaced prior to my planned road trip on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

AllTrac Lyfe.