RORERI: A JDM 1992 ST185H-BLMVZ

I picked some up at rock Auto for $55 a piece or so, Tecker recommended. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 94&pt=2288

surprisingly good amount of items for our cars listed. obviously the rear is much more difficult to get.

Oh that's great! I cancelled that NAPA part order and switched over to that RockAuto part.

You saved me $88 Tippo--thanks so much!

It's sad to hear about the rears being hard to get. I'll start looking now against the day of need.

I got after the rear calipers and rotors and brass brushed, sanded, degreased, Ospho-ed, and painted them. Not a super pro job but better looking then before for sure. My neighbor came over and was duly amazed (that I would be giving so much attention to an old car, no doubt).


The brakes appear to be the stock setup, as I knew from before. Single pot calipers, with the 277mm front rotor and the smaller rear rotor. They're fine. Not great, not terrible. It's good that I'm lightening up the Lorelei.


My plan tomorrow and Tuesday is to take off the CV axles and be ready to go when new CV axles arrive from RockAuto Tuesday evening. Onward!

Like RedCelicaTRD warned me, Lakeland Toyota didn't actually have and couldn't find the parts I ordered on the 8th of April and sent me an email to that effect.

Wanting to get the internal structure repair parts on the way, I placed an order with Amayama:

53205-20030 Support Sub Assembly, Radiator, Upper $186.64
53292-20050 Seal, Radiator Support, Upper $40.96
Shipping: $32.49 (UPS)
Total: $260.09

The order is pending approval, and the prices might change depending on shipping costs and so on. The website says that the parts will be delivered to the warehouse on May 7. I received an email that a representative will reach out to me with payment instructions—so I haven’t actually paid for this yet.

I then placed an order with MegaZip for the other parts I need:

53209-20200 Brace Sub-Assembly, Hood Lock Support $31.15 (Japan Warehouse)
53633-20010 Shield, Hood Lock Control Cable, Toyota $34.59 (Japan Warehouse)
53903-20010 Panel Sub-Assembly, Front End $148.69 (Japan Warehouse)
Shipping (Japan Warehouse Items): $41.55 (FedEx Priority)
Total: $255.98

This order has been paid for, and MegaZip is actioning it. The parts are estimated to arrive between May 5 and May 13.

Total cost for both orders came to $516.07.

I should hope that these actually are in stock and arrive by late May. Obviously there's Memorial Day and I have some leave planned in early June so I could tear apart the front end and get all the bent metal replaced with undamaged parts and get the radiator back in its original position. Then, pretty much, minus a slightly scuffed OEM CS bumper, I'd consider it fully restored.

EDIT: And overnight, the other shoe dropped. Shipping for the MegaZip order is actually $151.51, so an additional $109.96 to get those on their way. I can expect worse for the Amayama order, I’m sure…

EDIT: MegaZip applied a 10% discount to my order so I only paid an additional $89 for shipping. Amayama adjusted the shipping up about $20. So that’s not too bad. MegaZip uses FedEx as its cheapest shipping option while Anayama uses EMS. All told about $630 for those parts, shipped.

CV Axle Replacement

A month ago, if someone had told me I was going to install coilovers and replace CV axles, I would have said "Hahahahahah no."

But these cars do something to you. Faced with a failed outer CV boot and cracked inner CV boots on both sides, and the CV joint grinding, I realized that I was either going to do it or pay to have someone do it. So I got it done. It look much longer than I would have liked, consuming three evenings after work, but I learned a lot and I bought some more tools. It's a job that a determined rookie with some basic background in wrenching can do, and it's a shitload better than paying hundreds of dollars to have it done.

I got a pair of TrakMotive CV axles (Tecker recommended!) from Rock Auto for $55 each plus shipping if you expedite them.


Things you will need:

Metric Socket Set
30mm Axle Nut Socket
Impact Wrench
Breaker Bar
8mm Hex Socket
Tie Rod Remover (you might be able to get away without one--I didn't need it for one, but needed it for the other)
Extension (if you go with the impact wrench method of removing the hex bolts from the CV axle)
General tools like hammers and pliers and such

My recommended order of operations:

0. The day before, apply penetrating oil to the CV axle nut, the castle nut at the tie rod, strut bolts, caliper bolts, and the hex bolts attaching the CV axles to the transmission.

1. While the car is on ramps and chocked, with 8mm hex socket remove the 6 hex bolts (which should be at 48 foot pounds torque) attaching the existing CV axles to the transmission. Alternately, this can be done later with an impact wrench and an extension, like this:


2. Remove the CV axle nut from the center of the rotor--an impact wrench is very helpful for this.

3. Loosen the tie rod castle nut and remove the tie rod end (you may need a tie rod remover).

4. Remove caliper and place on bucket or hang from strut spring (I found this better).

5. Remove strut bolts.

6. Swing axle assembly out and remove old CV axle.


7. Apply grease generously to new CV axle inner gearing.

8. Insert outer CV axle into wheel bearing (outboard hub), hand tightening new (or old) CV axle nut.

9. Replace and tighten strut bolts, tie rod castle nut, and replace caliper on knuckle and rotor.

10. Hand tighten hex bolts securing CV axle to the transmission.

11. Put tires back on without center hub cap and secure with three hand tightened lug nuts, then drop the car.

12. Tighten CV axle nut with breaker bar while tires are chocked, being watchful to locate the cotter pin hole where there is a gap if you use the new CV axle nut provided.

13. Jack car back up, remove tires, put the hub cap back on.

14. Insert and set cotter pin in CV axle nut.

15. Tires back on.

16. Get car up on ramps, chock, use torque wrench to tighten CV axle hex bolts to 48 foot pounds of torque.

I found the overall experience affirming, because in my growing opinion, to own and operate an AllTrac or GT-Four is to be both a driver and a technician. Unless you either want to eventually just have a garage or lawn ornament, or you have inordinately deep pockets for mechanics' charges.

Roreri":m4ocb82g said:

It's a job that a determined rookie with some basic background in wrenching can do, and it's a shitload better than paying hundreds of dollars to have it done.

Click to expand...

One of the things that I love about these cars, and part of what has kept me from changing platforms, is that every* job I've come across is doable by a home mechanic with fairly standard tools. Quite often you do need to remove a couple more parts than on other cars, so it takes more time and would have higher shop bills, but it's all quite reasonable to do.

*the exception is probably installing the transmission. which people can do at home, but you're pulling the whole engine and it's a much bigger job than on most other cars. idk how it compares to other AWD cars though.

I'm a little late to the party, but a couple of suggestions for this job.

1-Tie rod remover. Not sure which tool you used. I wouldn't suggest a pickle fork. They beat up the boot, force grease out of the boot, and can potentially mar the joint. You can use a large hammer to whack the outside of the steering knuckle HARD where the tie rod sits. If you do this make sure you loosen and remove the tie rod nut first. Turn it upside down (so the crenelations on the castle nut are facing down) and thread it back on til the top of the threads are even with the bottom of the upside down nut. You don't want it threaded all the way down because this leaves the top of the threads unprotected. And you won't know when you've loosened the tie rod (it will fall out of the hole). The nut goes back on so if you miss and hit the threads they're protected. And the nut is upside down because if you do hit the nut you're less apt to distort the crenelations if they're fully supported (the thread tapers at the top). I hope that makes sense?
It also doesn't hurt to get a new castle nut.
The preferred way is using a Toyota SST. Looks kind of like a 2 jaw puller. There are aftermarket ones too. Make sure you get a good one. That fits. Make sure it's lined up straight. You don't want all that pressure sideways (like in a press). This can break the tool or damage the tie rod.

This is an aftermarket one, one of the Toyota ones is similar (there are several, depending which vehicle you're doing, and they are different).
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/attachm ... 03fdcf.jpg

There's supposed to be a cork gasket between the spacer on the end of the CV shaft and the "cup" end that stays in the transmission. This keeps the grease from escaping out the joint.

BLUE thread lock is great for those hex bolts in the driveshaft. You don't want them getting loose.....

If you tighten the 2 strut bolts on the top of the steering knuckle when it's hanging in the air you get less negative camber. You want more negative camber.
Push in on the top of the knuckle while you tighten. Or use something to hold it in while you tighten if you need 3 hands. Like a jack under the ball joint.


Oh, and NEVER NEVER NEVER use something like that split Dorman boot. Unless it's an emergency fix you're going to correct as soon as you can. Complete crap....

Underscore: That is great to hear that as long as you have some tools and determination these are not self maintenance nightmares. Except maybe for finding the parts. I might consider doing the AC compressor, receiver dryer, and union O-rings as my next major project.

Alltracman78: Late or not, thank you! Much appreciated.

I used the sort of tie rod remover that involves a C-shaped clamp that you put on and then you use a socket wrench to twist a threaded rod up to push the tie rod up through the hole until it pops. This kinda guy, just like the yotatech tool you linked:


It did line up and it worked. The other side, I used a poly hammer and the tie rod came up out of the hole very easily without any undue banging and damage to the castle nut.

I did not use blue thread locker for the CV axle hex bolts. Too late now, unless I want to take the time to get down there and re-apply it. There were no gaskets in there with the OEM CV axles, so I didn't look for new gaskets. I even used the original hex bolts, because I didn't poke around in the box and find the bag with gaskets and new hex bolts until after it was all together. So, I guess the 48 foot pounds of torque have to be enough. I did use a drop of blue thread locker for the brake caliper bolts and the strut bolts. I did end up using one new hex bolt because one of the hex bolts, I marred it a little removing it with the impact wrench.

I'll get down there and check the CV axle hex bolts frequently over this trip I am going on. If I see anything I'll get on it in a hurry. I'll take an impact wrench to check torque, socket wrench, 8mm hex socket, blue thread locker, and extra hex nuts with me on my trip so I have everything I need on hand to correct anything untoward.

I didn't lose any negative camber, so I must have done the strut bolts right.

The split Dorman boot went by the wayside pretty quickly--plus they're hilariously expensive! Glad I just bit the bullet and replaced the CV axles. It takes a lot of effort to cut a CV boot off--might as well just do the whole axle.

Blue Ridge Parkway Road Trip Day One

Yesterday morning the boy and I set out from Alexandria on a five day four night road trip with the Lorelei. We moved through Manassas, Warrenton, Sperryville, Madison, Hood, Geer, and Crozet, always favoring the twisty roads over the straightaways.

The weird tenderness started setting in just as I started moving from Hood to Geer, about two and a half hours and 110 miles into the trip. It would feel like it just did not want to give it the full measure. The motor would cut out, ever so slightly. My reaction was to drive it light, which it was fine to do. I watched air:fuel and it was fine. Coolant temps were normal. I noticed oil temps were just above 200 degrees F which is slightly higher than normal--the oil temp tends to like to range from 180-200 degrees F once it's heated up. It wasn't a really hot day. I was at that time at just about a half tank of Shell 93 octane.

We got to Waynesboro, had lunch, and I went to Advance and got a bottle of Lucas octane boost. We went and dumped it in the tank and filled up with 8 Gallons of Shell 93 Octane. It ran fine the rest of the day. Attacked hills, ran to full boost, the whole thing. I ended up just turning the boost controller off because not so much power was needful under the circumstances.

Anyway, clearly my problems are not quite over. I’ll pull the ECU. And if that proves fine I'll change the fuel pump when I get home. Probably I'll get the Supra pump, even though I have an OEM Denso unit on hand, just so I can be certain sure I'm getting the lpm to service the full 16psi boost.

If you're ever going to drive the Blue Ridge Parkway, drive it in early May on a weekday. You will feel like you own the whole road.


The Feals are great. I mostly respected the speed limit. I took corners while holding the speed limit—which is to say faster than the recommended speed. It stuck to the road very well, even with 205 wide all seasons. I can only imagine how well it would stick dropping it an inch and going to 215 wide Bridgestone Potenza RS-71RS high performance summer tires and lightweight Enkei wheels.

Blue Ridge Parkway Road Trip Day Two

We started at Peaks of Otter Lodge and went to Bedford to see the National D-Day Memorial. Powerful monument to that day.

The Lorelei gave great performance all day long. Great pulls up hills, the whole serving of beans. There was a detour off the the Blue Ridge Parkway where I got to haul ass with a couple of other cars up a very curvy three lane stretch south of Roanoake on Bent Mountain Road, and it was admirable in both power and agility.


Finished up in Floyd, VA. 604km thus far. Wednesday and Thursday southward, then the long day home on the expressways.

Blue Ridge Parkway Road Trip Day Three

On the 4th of May we continued south to West Jefferson, North Carolina, by way of Mabry Mill, Puckett Cabin, Brinegar Cabin, Cascade Falls at EB Jeffress Park, and the Moses Cone Estate. Performance was generally good over the 260 or so kilometers driven. Nothing really stood out that caused consternation.

Blue Ridge Parkway Road Trip Day Four

On the 5th of May we continued south on the Blue Ridge Parkway. We summited two peaks that day, first Grandfather Mountain, and then Mount Mitchell. I wish I could say that performance was flawless, but I observed some real problems with occasional power cutout over the long, nearly 350km day. The Lorelei was still able to climb, though. I snapped this amazing shot from atop Grandfather Mountain.


Got another glamour shot at Switzerland Inn North Carolina:


Return Leg

The 6th of May we did a 750km endurance trip through the fog and rain. The Lorelei would perform fine for a while, and then the cutouts would begin--the car would keep going, and it was never an issue of stalling out, but it was rendered gutless. This happened most embarrassingly while cruising along with a 370Z on Interstate 77 north just before the interchange with Interstate 81.

However, I was able to correct these through the simple expedient of pulling over, cutting the engine, and starting it again. This would correct the problem, either for a short time as I observed earlier in the trip, or for a long time, as I observed after shutting it down shortly in Christiansburg VA. Shortly after, I topped off with 11 Gallons of non-ethanol Shell 93 octane. For the remainder of the trip—about 420km—the Lorelei exhibited flawless performance. We returned home the evening of the 6th of May, having clocked 1943km over five days. Car, driver, and occupant survived.

Thoughts on the Intermittent Power Cutout Problem

The fact that I can correct the power cutout problem by shutting the motor down and starting it back up is interesting to me. I'll look at the ECU as recommended. I'll install a fuel pressure gauge off the top of the banjo bolt at the fuel filter with an extension line and clip it to the windshield wiper so I can look at it while testing. Could be the fuel pump, though somehow I doubt it, now. Could be the AFM, too, I'm told. Deleting that old tech is as good a reason as any to install a standalone ECU, I suppose.

Could it be as simple a matter as ethanol-laced fuel fuckering up the situation?

MegaZip Problems

I came home to a message from MegaZip which informed me that the three parts I ordered from them would require 2-3 months to source through their Thailand warehouse and an additional $420.91, making the total cost for the three parts in excess of $700. I told them that this was not acceptable and asked them to return the $344.49 I had sent them.

AllTrac Life...

That sounds similar to when I had a bad knock sensor, I got really good at clutch in, engine off, engine on, clutch out, while driving lol. I can't remember if the CEL comes on with that or not. Since the problem went away after refueling then I'd suspect some kind of problem with the fuel you got at the previous fill up. I'd wait to see if it comes back before worrying too too much about it.

That sounds about right, you know. I'm undecided, and I'm for more diagnosis rather than firing the parts cannon at this matter. I gave a thought to that very procedure you mentioned, but it would have freaked out my passenger. So I did the less adventuresome thing.

There's no CEL at any point. According to the Lorelei's primitive little brain, all is well with the world.

So, as it stands:

1. Bad fuel? Maybe the JDM timing map doesn't like ethanol blended fuel?
2. Air Flow Meter? Maybe that old tech is just faulty and giving weird signal?
3. Fuel Pump? Maybe the fuel pump is giving out sporadically?
4. Knock Sensor? Could be indicating knock and engaging engine protection?

I'm curious about something...so...if I fill the tank to the click stop, and I park it on anything but dead level ground, it will leak. I used to think it was venting through the charcoal canister but I've given some thought to the possibility of one of the top gaskets being compromised. The leak always shows up on the right side (as you're looking at it from the back).

If that gasket is compromised, is there a fuel tank pressurization issue? Like leaving your gas cap unscrewed?

I ordered up some equipment that will allow me to set up a fuel pressure gauge where I can see it, and then move it back inside the engine compartment later if wanted.

And Amayama just cancelled my order for a couple of front end structural parts, stating that the items were out of production.

Yeah. You think?

So no luck with MegaZip or Amayama for the front end parts I’m looking for. I’ll probably need to source them from an ST185 someone’s parting out. Eventually. Thankfully the need isn’t dire or urgent.

To be fair that’s probably what MegaZip would have been doing had I proceeded with sourcing the parts from Thailand. What car they’d be coming off of…who knows?

Your issue might be either overboosting or timing.

Usually if you overboost (14.7 PSI?) you'll get a CEL though. And the timing retard won't go away until you recycle the key.
Are you running a boost gauge? Keep in mind there's a range of accuracy. With your gauge, the MAP sensor and the ECU....
You could try disconnecting the MAP hose (not the connector, that will give you a CEL) and see if that changes anything.

IIRC JDM ECUs are tuned for roughly (our) 94 octane. Seems like the cleaner (more pure) the fuel the better your car runs?
It's possible your knock sensor is a little on the sensitive side? Or the ECU is?
Have you checked your actual ignition timing? Maybe it's a tad advanced?
You could try water/methanol injection. See if that has any impact? Though the methanol makes you run slightly leaner? And as your JDM ECU has less leeway than a US spec one (they run much leaner) you may want to keep that in mind?

I think I asked this already, but I can't remember what you answered. Have you ran several cans of seafoam through the intake? To make sure there's no crud in the manifold ect?

The easiest ECU upgrade IMO is swapping in an ST205 ECU. Or a gen III MR2 one (you won't have to build a IC pump bypass circuit with this one). No tuning required. IIRC just need the ECU, MAP sensor, intake manifold temp sensor (goes in place of your CSI injector) and igniter. Because your car is pre revision you'll have to swap a few wires at the ECU. And you'll have to build that pump relay circuit if you use the 205 ECU.

I appreciate the input. Lots to think of here. I'll chunk it up.

Overboost

I'm not sure about overboost. No CEL.

I am running a boost gauge. It can make 1.1kg/cm2--so 15.6psi--on the high setting of the Blitz Twin Solenoid Boost Controller that's installed. It can make .8kg/cm2--11.6psi--on the low setting. With it turned off, it can make .6kg/cm2--8.5psi. All of these analog readings on an Omoni boost gauge.

I turned the boost controller off. Today on the drive home, no issues. But I wasn't driving hard.

Fuel

I am wondering about this. Like I said, on the trip back from the Blue Ridge Parkway I picked up some 93 octane out in the countryside where I saw no ethanol sticker on the pump. Then I drove home hundreds of miles no problem, and in to work and back Monday and in to work today. I got near E today and filled it up with 13 gallons of 93 octane on base. No problems on the return trip home. But like I said, I wasn't driving hard.

I agree that this could be a situation where the fuel is right on the line of being not enough octane for how this motor is set up. Depending on how it is, it could be inducing the issue.

Timing

I had a timing belt installed when I took delivery. It's possible that the timing is not set correctly. Per the decal under the hood, initial timing should be 10 degrees BDTC at 800rpm. I do not know what a good setting is for total timing for 93 octane E10. I do not have the equipment to check timing. I could get that, but then I'd be learning how to do it. Alternately, I do know a shop I could take it to and ask for what the settings are. I'd pay for the knowledge if I went that route.

Water/Methanol Injection

I knew nothing about this, except having heard of it. I read an article and watched a video. It's an interesting concept. I want to learn more.

Seafoam

I ran a can through it. I'll do another two tonight.

ECU Upgrade

I'm not there yet, but perhaps in the future. I'd go with a gen III MR2 ECU I think if I went that route.

I'm showing my wife this thread so she believes me that I'm not the only one constantly working on the Celica.

To grip-addict: Riiiiight?!

I got the daughter into the act tonight. I live in a cul de sac in a quiet neighborhood so rather than annoy them I took it over to the nearby strip mall parking lot where I would annoy nobody. I told her she could make $10 for a half hour of light work and she jumped on the opportunity. All she had to do was keep the revs at 2000 while I put two cans of SeaFoam through it. Her first time behind the wheel doing anything. She was looking around at all the gauges--turbo timer, temp gauges, AFM, boost gauge. Then she had to ride along with me after the warm soak.

Though I embarrass her on the daily by dropping her off at school on my way to work, she'd never been in it when I'd taken it hard into the onramp or into right hand turns at the speed limit. She was giggling pretty hard telling me that mom would be yelling at me. She had to agree that the Feal 441s had greatly improved the ride quality.

So, two (more) cans of SeaFoam through it, and I dumped two cans of SeaFoam motor treatment into a full tank of gas. We'll see whether it changes things up.

Carbon Microsystem is finishing up my carbon fiber hood. But, man... The shipping. 680 Euro. Brutal. International commerce is going through a very rough patch.

I also ordered a radiator grill. I was originally going to go with a carbon fiber one, but Carbon Microsystem wouldn't bundle the shipping and it would have been egregious--like, 280 Euro for the grill and they say 50 Euro for shipping but the way things are, I'd count on 100 Euro. So, an OEM radiator grill for a quarter of that price.

The restoration is nigh.

Testing With Fuel Pressure Gauge

I got my hands on some AutoMeter equipment to set up an external fuel pressure gauge.


I first thought I would try and run the line out the back of the hood and install the gauge on the hood cowling or use some double sided tape to stick it to the windscreen. That was obviously in error--the hood cowling situation is really very tight. And, like, there's no place to secure it to the windscreen with adhesive. I'd have needed to have gone with a much smaller gauge and gauge pod if I was going to try that. But the connections were holding and the gauge was working.


I tried again, running the line out through the right side hood vent, and lashing it down with double sided Gorilla tape. That worked.


Having a big ole gauge out there on the hood like that is a little on the nose for my taste, but it served my purpose which was to check fuel pressure.

I took the Lorelei on a number of loops onto the expressway and off and back through the neighborhood, running on stock boost max 9psi. I gave it a number of full load onramp accelerations and some good load on the expressway. Did some video recording so I could analyze afterwards--too many gauges to look at all at once. My findings were as follows: 32psi at idle, 40psi at load, up to 45psi max.

This is lower that what grip-addict posted should be observed:

"At full vacuum, 30-32 something-ish psi fuel pressure
At 0 bar boost, 42-44ish fuel pressure (please review bgb for exactly numbers)
At 14.7 psi boost, 58ish psi fuel pressure.
1:1 is the law of the land."

Performance was generally good up through 9psi. Air-fuel ratio was properly rich under load. One time, I experienced dropout, while at full load--wasn't recording then so I don't know what exactly was going on, but I'm suspecting fuel starvation. I think I should be seeing above 50psi fuel pressure at 9psi boost.

So, I am leaning toward a new fuel pump, a Supra unit. One of these, which Tippo installed a while back:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 56&jsn=877

I'm guessing I'll need a fuel strainer as well--one of these:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 12&jsn=395

This weekend I have a 250 mile trip planned up into Pennsylvania. I'll leave the fuel pressure gauge installed out there during the trip, to use as a monitoring tool.

Where in the fuel system did you tap in for the gauge?

I took the pressure reading off the top of the fuel filter.

I used a banjo bolt with a 1/8" NPT female fitting, then added a 1/8"NPT to 4AN adapter and then connected a 4 foot braided steel line to a mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

Better to go off the fuel rail?

Roreri":2gpnpjgt said:

Testing With Fuel Pressure Gauge

I got my hands on some AutoMeter equipment to set up an external fuel pressure gauge.

View attachment 2
I first thought I would try and run the line out the back of the hood and install the gauge on the hood cowling or use some double sided tape to stick it to the windscreen. That was obviously in error--the hood cowling situation is really very tight. And, like, there's no place to secure it to the windscreen with adhesive. I'd have needed to have gone with a much smaller gauge and gauge pod if I was going to try that. But the connections were holding and the gauge was working.

View attachment 1
I tried again, running the line out through the right side hood vent, and lashing it down with double sided Gorilla tape. That worked.


Having a big ole gauge out there on the hood like that is a little on the nose for my taste, but it served my purpose which was to check fuel pressure.

I took the Lorelei on a number of loops onto the expressway and off and back through the neighborhood, running on stock boost max 9psi. I gave it a number of full load onramp accelerations and some good load on the expressway. Did some video recording so I could analyze afterwards--too many gauges to look at all at once. My findings were as follows: 32psi at idle, 40psi at load, up to 45psi max.

This is lower that what grip-addict posted should be observed:

"At full vacuum, 30-32 something-ish psi fuel pressure
At 0 bar boost, 42-44ish fuel pressure (please review bgb for exactly numbers)
At 14.7 psi boost, 58ish psi fuel pressure.
1:1 is the law of the land."

Performance was generally good up through 9psi. Air-fuel ratio was properly rich under load. One time, I experienced dropout, while at full load--wasn't recording then so I don't know what exactly was going on, but I'm suspecting fuel starvation. I think I should be seeing above 50psi fuel pressure at 9psi boost.

So, I am leaning toward a new fuel pump, a Supra unit. One of these, which Tippo installed a while back:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 56&jsn=877

I'm guessing I'll need a fuel strainer as well--one of these:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 12&jsn=395

This weekend I have a 250 mile trip planned up into Pennsylvania. I'll leave the fuel pressure gauge installed out there during the trip, to use as a monitoring tool.

Click to expand...

If you ever happen to make your way a little further to the tri-state area, let me know. We can probably do a mini meet if we can get Tecker on board.

As for the fuel delivery, closest to the rail is probably best to get the most accurate reading but sounds like you are close to where it needs to be.