*I copied this from the other thread, in case someone is looking in the future, so all the info is in one place*
The AFM isn't the problem. They're probably confusing with the 165. IIRC The fuel pump circuit runs through the AFM on those. That's the safety, instead of from the ECU like the 185 and up.
AFM wiring is the same on all 185s. 5V supply voltage, airflow signal, air temp signal, and ground. Homologation got an extra ground for some reason. But like I said it splices into the other ground about a foot back. I don't have the pinout in front of me but probably the same order too.
There may not even be that many (7) differences between the homologation and the 92/93 (facelift) pinouts. And the differences are things like EGR , EGR temp. Plus of course the IC level sensor. Nothing to do with the fuel pump. I have the pinouts for both, but not in front of me. The ECUs actually have the pinouts printed on the board FYI. You can open the top cover and read them. I forget if the second board (on the facelift ECUs) is in the way or not. I don't think so.
Fuel pump wiring is going to be the same across the board. Wires possibly in a different position, but works the same way. You can use the regular manuals for this. Just double check you have the right wire.
I doubt it will do anything for this issue, but don't forget you can put the ECU into a more sensitive diagnostic mode by jumping TE2 and E1 and drive with the jumper in place. Benefit of having a facelift ECU.
Did you check and see if the ECU was still grounding FC when the pump stopped working?
I don't have any other info about the FC circuit specifically, but I can't imagine it's any more complicated than the ECU sees the engine rotating (from the dist) so it grounds the circuit.
The wiring manual has info on checks you can do for specific circuits. Tells you what voltage or resistance to look for for specific wires. It's on the page after the diagram. Or second page maybe. Probably won't give you anything but worth a look.
You may have 2 parts that are bad or going bad.
You can make jumpers to eliminate certain parts. For example removing the FC pin from the COR connector and adding in your own pin with a wire. When you ground your wire with the key on it will have the same effect, causing the COR to close and make the pump run. It will do it even with the engine not running, just like jumping FP and B+.
This will eliminate the ECU and the dist. See if it still cuts out.
Thinking about this, I doubt it's the dist. If the ECU isn't getting an RPM signal it shouldn't send an ignition signal to the igniter either, which it obviously is if the engine runs with FP and B+ jumped.
It's also possible one or more of your engine harness grounds is bad or corroded. Anything that grounds through the ECU (like your injectors or the COR) ultimately grounds through the E1 and E2 wires. If there's a bad, damaged, or corroded splice or connection that will effect how much voltage things see. Too little voltage and things won't work, like the COR dropping out. Wouldn't hurt to do a voltage drop test on the E1 and E2 wires. I wouldn't suggest checking resistance, doing that can sometimes miss only partially damaged wires. A voltage drop test will let you know if there's an extra load (in this case damaged/corroded wire).
*One other thing to add, if you do end up doing anything with the wiring, don't use aftermarket spade connectors or paper clips or anything like that. It's one thing to use it in something like the DIAG box that doesn't have anything plugged into it. Unless it's the same size as the original pin you'll "stretch" the female pin and the original pin may not correctly make contact afterwards. Which causes obvious problems. I only use Toyota pins for things like this. I have a bunch of spare wiring that I cut up as needed. Old O2 sensors are perfect for this, a lot of the pins in the engine harness are the same size.*