Caster solutions (was: St165 whiteline anti-lift kit)

Anyone use it? I am trying to find more info to what it does.

I contacted whiteline and they didn't seem to know much about it or if it could be used on a 185.

I am really interested in this if it will work on a 185 to set caster.

subaru people say it's one of the best upgrades on their cars....



Anti lift..


when launch or break... it doesn't dip

Yes anti-lift wrx's don't use it they try to get rid of the anti lift, anti-lift kits would make it so the rear end will not squat as much on a launch. They change the degree for the camber so that it is still within 90 degree's but lessening the amount of squat in the rear end/

-Matty

Anyone use it? I am trying to find more info to what it does.

Click to expand...

Not sure if you could get it to work on a 185. I am using it on the ST165. I am not sure exactly how it works other than it changes the geometry of the steering. The kit consists of some spacers in the steering assembly. Less understeer is the result. It is a great improvement. -ed

I guess we need to figure out if the 165 caster is the same. If not, then maybe this brings it close to what the 185 caster is. If they are the same, then I want to figure out how to do something simular for the car.

Any pics of where its installed? Do you know what you caster is after the install?

I also have the Super Pro anti-lift/increased-castor kit installed (same as whiteline). I think it is important to differentiate the anti-lift kit, with the increased castor kit. There are three bushing options: Anti-lift, Increase Castor, and Anti-lift with Increased castor.

Anti-Lift:
Most often anti-lift for any vehicle is established by changing the angle of the lower control arm pivot axis with reference to the chassis. If we consider the lower control arm to push on the chassis under accelleration, then the angle of lower control will either drive the chassis up, or drive the chassis down. So, when looking at the car from the SIDE, if we move the front mounting point of the front lower control arm down (or move the rear mounting point up), the lower control arm will drive the chassis down, thus reducing front lift and therefor weight transfer. In the rear, obviously we would want to create lift, not reduce it.

Increased Castor:
Changing the angle of the control arm from the side view does not affect castor. However, if we consider the front wheel from the TOP view, it is clear that if the rear control mounting point is moved outboard, the lower ball joint and therefor wheel is moved forward (towards the front of the car). If the bottom of the strut moves forward and the top of the strut stays in place, increased castor is achieved.

So......
In regards to All Trac bushings, these changes are made very easily. The front control arm bushings (for the rearward control arm mount) are simply ECCENTRIC, and depending on wether they are offset upward only, outward only, or upward and outward determines wether you have anti-lift only, increased castor only, or anti lift and increased castor. The reality is, you can also decrese castor and create lift as well if these are not installed properly, which is why driver and passenger sides are specified.

I got about 1 degree of increased castor from my bushings and havn't "quantified" the anti-lift characterstics, but don't expect increased castor from anti-lift only bushings. :smokes:

Thanks for the reply. It helps out a bit.

Did you install this on a 165? Can anyone posts pics of the 165 mount points so we can compare them to a 185? If this could work on the 185 or give us direction to make something simular to the 185, that would be great.

Not mine, but here you go.

http://www.st165.com/diy/diymaint/recoil/P1010016.JPG

Let me see if I understand how caster is changed.

The stopper ring on the bushing is larger than stock and the bolts are longer allowing the base to be offset slightly more forward which in turns changes caster?

Not exactly. The control arm does not change it's position in that direction. In the picture, if the control arm pivot (that slips inside in the bush) is moved outward (away from car centerline, or to the right in the pic), the wheel is moved forward because of the L shaped nature of the control arm. This is how caster is changed. The bush is eccentric. This is also how anti-lift is created.

I wanted to revive this thread.

They have added a pdf on the whiteline site with the anti-lift kit. From the looks of it, it should be easy to mimik.

I am going to see if intiald will compare his 165 and 185 control arm. If everything fits the same, I will just order the 165 kit.

If not, I will try and copy it. Once the car is running (hpe the end of this week) I am taking it to a pro to get the car aligned right and I want o get it all in one whack.

in my experence the easest way to go about adjusting the caster with a mcpherson strut type suspension is to make new bottom arms and caster arms.

roger

Got any links or pics?

Here is a question about this caster kit. Is the bushing inner cylinder cut at an angle?

I asked whiteline about development for a 185 version and they really don't feel there a reason to bother in their favor.

I wonder if superpro might be up to the job. Anyone have contacts?

CMS-GT4":3lalgd31 said:

Anyone have contacts?

Click to expand...

Talk to Josh at http://www.185performance.com/
I'm sure if he doesn't already have a solution, he'll know who to talk to about getting one.

Josh got back with me. He says he is up for developing some caster adjusting bushings, it will take most of the summer though.

Has anyone here made a set of lower a-arms? I see the advantage of making them lighter for less unsprung weight.

Can someone look up the part numbers for the 165 and 185 a-arms and bushings?

sorry i have not got any pics.

i have not made any arms for the GT4 yet however they are not hard to make. the only macpherson strut arms i have made are for our S13 silvia. i have made plenty of double wishbone arms for our spaceframe speedway cars and for my mini. if you want i can try find a picture of my mini ones.

roger

Sure, post some pics up. I like that the bushings would be cheap and simple, but I would like to loose some unsprung weight as well.

Punisher on celicatech is working on rear components that are lighter, and possibly a a-arm.

http://www.celicatech.com/forums/showth ... post197088