how to upgrade 165 turbo/ic to 2 gen turbo/205ic ** UPDATED*

several issues

if you use the manifold spacer then you will need a 1" spacer to mate the dp to midpipe. not a big problem, I just used 2 3/8" collector flanges (from muffler shop) and 3 gaskets to make a sandwich.

I was able to use the top hole of the return pipe and secure it to ones of it orignal mounting holes, maybe this is due to the spacer. I did not need to cut it off.

I had to cut a 1" section of the oil feed line brace/bracket so that I could bend the line to fit.

I had to cut the water line from the water neck since it would not clear the gearbox. not a big issue, flared the end and ran new water hose.

I had to use an st185 return rubber hose since its 1/2" longer and wanted the extra rubber for my own peace of mind.

your no longer able to use the turbo stay/brace. I would like some extra support. maybe later on make a brace.

I am currently using the stock wta but have a 205 in the shed.

not too bad, fairly straight forward. hardest part was getting the right parts to make it work and taking care in bending the oil lines.
 

saved_1992

New member
cool thanks for the input :D hope the write up helped

which spacer did you use? how much room did it give you to clear the actuator and oil filter bolt?

do you have any pics?

did you use the stock 185 downpipe?
 
yea the write up gave me a good general idea of whats needed but you never know until you actually tackle the prob.

it clears the oil bolt by a few mm's, I used the thicker flange.

yea I am using the st185 dp.

will try to post some pics this weekend.
 

saved_1992

New member
91 alltrac":1l69zf48 said:
yea the write up gave me a good general idea of whats needed but you never know until you actually tackle the prob.

it clears the oil bolt by a few mm's, I used the thicker flange.

yea I am using the st185 dp.

will try to post some pics this weekend.

forgot to ask what did you use for the longer studs?
 
I just measured the depth of the exhaust holes, added the extra thickness of the 2 gaskets, flange and washers. Then went to a specialty hardware store and bought new grade 8 bolts and extra washers since they were a little longer then I wanted.
 

d1alltrac

Active member
i just did this too....pretty straight forward when you use the spacer, i had a hell of a time trying to line up the oil feed line though.
 

saved_1992

New member
d1alltrac":3l0xizmt said:
i just did this too....pretty straight forward when you use the spacer, i had a hell of a time trying to line up the oil feed line though.

were you able to find longer studs? or did you just use longer bolts?

also you have an aftermarket exhaust did it bolt right up or did you have to use a spacer at the down pipe flange? pics?
 

d1alltrac

Active member
i havent put the exhaust back on yet so im not sure if im gonna need spacers, ill get it all finished up next week sometime and get some pics, i need to pick up a thinner fan too

and yeah i just used bolts, i looked for studs but couldnt find any so i figured this will do at least for a while

oh yeah btw, the write-up helped...it would have been a serious PITA if i didnt have that spacer
 

d1alltrac

Active member
yup, thats the one...it seems to be the perfect size though, IIRC there is about 1-2mm of clearance at the wastegate actuator arm with the 1/2" spacer
 

d1alltrac

Active member
no...im not 100% finished though, i gotta swap out some gaskets and clean it up a bit. new gaskets get here saturday and im off sunday so i have a fun sunday planned. 8)

i guess you could say what i did was a "test fit" since the gaskets i used were crap and i really just needed to be able to move the car for the time being
 

saved_1992

New member
you will still need the spacer

i would also strongly suggest supporting/bracing the turbo/manifold to prevent cracking of the aftermarket manifold
 

CryoGoblin

New member
yea...i was gonna do that. cuz the original had to be removed...gonna make a custom support brace. haha...and yo you should go gamble :)
 

saved_1992

New member
question for the guys that have used bolts to install the manifold on the head, why not get a longer bolt and cut the head off to make a stud? the reason i ask is it is real easy to strip out threads on an aluminium head.
 
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