Grip Addict's project: it's always the small things
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grip-addict
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Your car looks beautiful ! Is that the original paint ?
grip-addict
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It looks so gooood. Body work is always a ton of effort. It is the gift that keeps on giving when the job turns out as well as yours.
grip-addict
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It's a well-known fact that every successful engine transplant starts with a powder-coated valvecover.
It’s important.
grip-addict
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FUKKEN DO IT BRO!
grip-addict
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New motor is in, but of course a few things broke on the way out... Or maybe they were already broken! Who knows.
Anyways, lots of parts on the way, and something already showed up!
Wiring bits should be here soon, too. I should have some good progress to share in the next few weeks.
Anyways, lots of parts on the way, and something already showed up!
Wiring bits should be here soon, too. I should have some good progress to share in the next few weeks.
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So you are going with the original spec gear oil I see. There have been some discussions of this over the years and I sense that this is the way to go.
grip-addict
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Intercooler fab work done. YouTube and Instagram make it look so easy. It wasn't necessarily THAT difficult, but putting this together was very time consuming. I wish there were still kits available to purchase these days.
Wiring Is the next major task to tackle and then it's just the normal refilling fluids and reconnecting everything that isn't before I'm ready for first start.
On the wiring front, I bought these Yaris coils where the connector was straight on instead angled because I thought it would clear the ST205 intercooler I used to run.
The good news is that they do, the bad news is that two out of four don't clear the valve cover! I need to research and see if I can use the angled-connector 1zz coil and mix and match it with these. Should only be a matter of making sure the dwell is the same.
Wiring Is the next major task to tackle and then it's just the normal refilling fluids and reconnecting everything that isn't before I'm ready for first start.
On the wiring front, I bought these Yaris coils where the connector was straight on instead angled because I thought it would clear the ST205 intercooler I used to run.
The good news is that they do, the bad news is that two out of four don't clear the valve cover! I need to research and see if I can use the angled-connector 1zz coil and mix and match it with these. Should only be a matter of making sure the dwell is the same.
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Looking nice! Red and chrome for the win!
grip-addict
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Thanks! I need to resell these coils, they're Denso 6731306 from 06 Yaris. I ordered 1zz coils from an 01 celica gt and those have the connector bend I need to clear the valvecover. Both are smart though.
Are you using NGK BKR7e coppers? That's my plan over here
Are you using NGK BKR7e coppers? That's my plan over here
Long story.
At the moment I have the stock distributor setup with the platinum plugs. That was because the engine did not start in the morning during winter.
I suspected the ignition system but finally it was the reluctor interface (Autronic thing).
Anyway, I had the R6 coils in the car and needed plugs with the thread on top, otherwise the R6 coils don't fit.
And NGK is having different types off the same plugs.
Wrote it down in my page, but sometimes the pictures are failing, have to look into that:
At the moment I have the stock distributor setup with the platinum plugs. That was because the engine did not start in the morning during winter.
I suspected the ignition system but finally it was the reluctor interface (Autronic thing).
Anyway, I had the R6 coils in the car and needed plugs with the thread on top, otherwise the R6 coils don't fit.
And NGK is having different types off the same plugs.
Wrote it down in my page, but sometimes the pictures are failing, have to look into that:
grip-addict
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Man I just do NOT like reluctors. I've worked on a few friend's vehicles where the VR sensor in the distributor had failed for whatever reason. It's annoying that so many vehicles from this era put the crank trigger in the distributor :\ Are reluctors themselves a problem? Probably not! They're just an easy target even though the engineering design is the issue.
Anyways, wiring is moving and I think I'll be done with it after this weekend. That'll just leave the odds and ends before the car is ready to start for the first time.
Here's a one minute video from the previous engine, just because it's fun:
Anyways, wiring is moving and I think I'll be done with it after this weekend. That'll just leave the odds and ends before the car is ready to start for the first time.
Here's a one minute video from the previous engine, just because it's fun:
grip-addict
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Getting real close!
I need to finish pinning the new wires in this loom and get them sent to the Haltech.
The good news is that I can bring this inside and do it on the kitchen counter since it's 100 degrees this week in KS.
The better news is that my wife is unbothered.
The best news is that the punch list is getting real short:
I need to finish pinning the new wires in this loom and get them sent to the Haltech.
The good news is that I can bring this inside and do it on the kitchen counter since it's 100 degrees this week in KS.
The better news is that my wife is unbothered.
The best news is that the punch list is getting real short:
Finish pinning this and incorporate a second Deutsch connector. I'm at 22 wires I've added to this vehicle.
Wire up the new relay for the coil on plug circuit
Make an AN6 hose from the Aeromotive FPR to the already-mounted ethanol content sensor
Add fluids, axles, and midpipe to the car
Connect vacuum and catch can hoses
Upload map, time engine andddddd START IT!
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May it start on the first key turn!
grip-addict
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This weekend was really busy and full of car shenanigans.
I spent basically all of Saturday and then some of Sunday attempting to prime the oil pump. It just wasn't interested in playing ball.
This isn't as much of an issue on the gen2 motors because of where the oil filter sits. You can just unscrew the filter and pour oil into the ports around the threaded barb and that should find its way back into the oil pump. Not so on a gen3.
Because the oil filter is on the bottom of the engine (normally a boon for oil changes), gravity is working against you and there is no such easy possibility. That didn't stop me from pulling off the oil cooler (still in the same location) and pouring oil in there, but no dice.
After endless amounts of cranking with the plugs and fuel pump fuse out, along with the required breaks, I still was just not getting any oil pressure on my gauge. I even started to second guess the gauge's accuracy and I pulled the valve cover off. Unfortunately... not really any new oil up there.
At this point, I called in a friend.
Fortunately, one fine gentleman I know is really into wave runners and boats. Things that aren't the easiest to change the oil on. Turns out, he had recently bought an electric oil pump and was willing to lend it to me. Even better was that he thought up a clever solution to my problem. He is an avid 3d-printer and created a little plastic female connector that I was able to screw on to the threaded barb where the oil filter goes. I hooked up his electric pump and started sending oil back thru that barb and into the oil pump. I ended up running this for 5 minutes, and it was enough to get a couple of psi on the oil pressure gauge. Not convinced this issue was ever going to end, I had him crank the engine while I had the oil filter off and the pump still going. After about 5 sec of cranking, FINALLY oil started gushing out of the pores where the filter normally lives. This was the proof I needed to know the oil pump was primed.
Somehow, I found time to get the body panels back on and get the car back down on all fours. It's been 3.5 months since the car has been able to roll, and today, it did it under its own power! oh man it sounds so good. I can't wait to get this engine broken in and start boosting to the moon.
Which reminds me, I need to order another case of BR40 break-in oil.
I spent basically all of Saturday and then some of Sunday attempting to prime the oil pump. It just wasn't interested in playing ball.
This isn't as much of an issue on the gen2 motors because of where the oil filter sits. You can just unscrew the filter and pour oil into the ports around the threaded barb and that should find its way back into the oil pump. Not so on a gen3.
Because the oil filter is on the bottom of the engine (normally a boon for oil changes), gravity is working against you and there is no such easy possibility. That didn't stop me from pulling off the oil cooler (still in the same location) and pouring oil in there, but no dice.
After endless amounts of cranking with the plugs and fuel pump fuse out, along with the required breaks, I still was just not getting any oil pressure on my gauge. I even started to second guess the gauge's accuracy and I pulled the valve cover off. Unfortunately... not really any new oil up there.
At this point, I called in a friend.
Fortunately, one fine gentleman I know is really into wave runners and boats. Things that aren't the easiest to change the oil on. Turns out, he had recently bought an electric oil pump and was willing to lend it to me. Even better was that he thought up a clever solution to my problem. He is an avid 3d-printer and created a little plastic female connector that I was able to screw on to the threaded barb where the oil filter goes. I hooked up his electric pump and started sending oil back thru that barb and into the oil pump. I ended up running this for 5 minutes, and it was enough to get a couple of psi on the oil pressure gauge. Not convinced this issue was ever going to end, I had him crank the engine while I had the oil filter off and the pump still going. After about 5 sec of cranking, FINALLY oil started gushing out of the pores where the filter normally lives. This was the proof I needed to know the oil pump was primed.
Somehow, I found time to get the body panels back on and get the car back down on all fours. It's been 3.5 months since the car has been able to roll, and today, it did it under its own power! oh man it sounds so good. I can't wait to get this engine broken in and start boosting to the moon.
Which reminds me, I need to order another case of BR40 break-in oil.
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grip-addict
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Break-in has been cut short.
A sincere word of caution for anyone who is considering the ATS cam position sensor: the set crews are not big enough and severe engine damage can result. There's even clear evidence of locktite being used on them...
A sincere word of caution for anyone who is considering the ATS cam position sensor: the set crews are not big enough and severe engine damage can result. There's even clear evidence of locktite being used on them...
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