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indiana
As posted in the Club Chat section, after nearly 20 years, I have returned to the All-Trac fold with an '88 st165. I haven't decided on a name yet. Maybe Akane, but I'm not quite ready to commit.

About 3 years ago, I started a thread looking for an st165. A member here (mpg) contacted me, we talked for many weeks, he gave me a lot of info and pictures and was overall a great person to deal with. Long story short, timing didn't work out then, but it has worked out now with the person who DID buy it.

Here's a not-so-long-story-told-overly-long for my own future reference and for those who are extremely bored:

A few months or so after mpg sold it in late 2021, I saw a post/photo in a Toyota group on facebook with a familiar looking car. I contacted the poster (Matt) to confirm it was the same car, and did the old "if you decide to sell it one day..." – he of course wasn't planning to sell it.

About 3 years went by, and my wife and I moved into a different home with more garage space, etc. After our previous house sold, I thought it might be a good time to get back into the All-Trac game (or an AW11 MR2). I figured it wouldn't hurt to message Matt again and see if anything had changed. His response began with "Funny timing..." and after a few weeks of messages, photo sharing, etc., we worked out a time to meet up.

Incidentally, the time that worked out for him coincided with my sister visiting, an event that happens once or twice a year. My sister provided me with my first car – a 1986 Celica ST, which she sold to me for $1. She taught me how to drive stick in it, and taught me how to change the oil. That was the car that made me fall in love with Celicas and driving stick shift. Without that first Celica I may never have heard of the All-Trac, Carlos Sainz, the WRC, etc. Since she was in town, she was able to go along on the journey. It was cool to be able to share the experience. She noted that this st165 smells just the way the st161 did, and it's true. I suppose it's probably some terribly unhealthy chemical that is in the dash plastics or seat foam. But it's a nostalgic smell now. Perhaps the chemical messes with the brain and makes it impossible to break away from Celica ownership.

A convenient by-product of not getting the car from mpg is that Matt was located much closer – less than 2 hours from my parents' house. I'm sure most on this forum know that being able to buy an All-Trac that close by is unusual. It certainly has been in my experience anyway.

We drove up last Wednesday and checked it out. It's not perfect, but seems to be in relatively good condition overall for a 1980s Toyota that has spent multiple years as a daily driver in 4 seasons. I went ahead and bought it (obviously Captain Obvious) and it made it back to my parents' without any real problems. I did grip the wheel a bit tight a few times watching idiot drivers in rush hour traffic, simultaneously hoping & praying to make it back in one piece. But seriously, people drive so stupidly in their huge trucks/suvs.

It did seem to go through some oil, as Matt had topped it off before I left with it. That said, I never saw exactly how much the dipstick read. It was a little under the halfway mark of the dipstick the next day when I checked it. Assuming it had read at the full mark before I left, I got a bit worried and decided not to drive it again until I did my own oil change and re-routed the PCV hose back to the stock configuration.

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On Saturday morning, I changed the oil with Mobil 1 5w-30 and a Toyota filter. I removed the breather filter that was on the PCV and routed that back to a bung that had been capped on the intake. While I believe the original hose was in with some spare parts in the hatch, but the hoses were pretty hard & cracked, so I just used a fuel hose from the garage.

It was hard to read the dipstick, but I put in about 4 quarts from my 5 quart jug. From what I could tell, it looked like around halfway up the marking on the dipstick (ie it looked how I would normally think I'd need to add a 1/2 quart to get to "full"). I figured since all I had done was start it for about a minute or two to run oil through the system, I didn't want to add more, figuring there was no way it had lost 1/2 quart through either leakage or burning in that short period. I didn't really want to overfill either. I will note that adding to difficulty of reading invisible Mobil 1 oil is the fact that the dipstick tube seems to maybe have been moved away from the downpipe to create clearance or something, but it seems to always require a little wrangling to get it to go in and down and it scrapes the oil filter on the way in. Not sure if this 1) affects the angle it enters the oil pan, or 2) makes it more difficult to get a "clean" reading of the dipstick.

I decided to check it somewhere near the midway point of my journey home to Indiana from Ohio (generally a little over 4 hours if not taking the interstate, which I wasn't planning on) and take a break to let the engine bay cool a bit so I wouldn't burn my sensitive little hands on the dipstick or anything.

I also went ahead and jumped the wires to have the intercooler water pump set to run constant.

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On Sunday morning I headed out sometime around 10:30am. Normally we'd have gone to church and left sometime after lunch, but my sister's flight was before noon. So instead I headed back to Indiana, my route being on US-36 much of the way. I stopped in Urbana, OH for lunch and spent a cool 30 minutes waiting for a $5 biggie bag at Wendy's. Not worth it. I guess they lost my order ticket or something.

Unfortunately, that didn't count as my time to stop to check the oil. The parking spaces were inclined so I figured that would affect the reading. Instead, I made another stop at a nearby nature preserve and took a short hike, then checked the oil afterward. It still seemed to be around the halfway mark, so I didn't add anything.
A bit further down the road I stopped for gas. This became a longer than planned stop, as the car would not start after refueling. Would not kick the starter on. So I sat at the pump for a bit, popped the hood, then found the restroom. After sitting for 20 minutes or so, the starter kicked in and it started right up. That was the final stop. Made it home about 1.5 hours later.

After it cooled a few hours, I checked the oil again, and still was pretty close to the halfway mark.

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Info from "mpg" from 3 years ago (parentheticals are my notes):
1988 Toyota Celica All-Trac
Red Exterior, blue cloth interior
(plastics/dash are black), sunroof, mileage 173,548
Paint is good, some rust around sunroof
A/C, cruise, power windows, work well, passenger power door lock needs to be manually closed.
The car is pretty much original = paint, steering wheel, stock wheels, shift knob.
The car had service in 2016 with new Cometic head gasket and valve guides, and the gas tank was relined.
4 new tires with less than 500 miles
(unfortunately now 8 years old though the tread is still great), new Porterfield front brake pads.
The car has no smog – T-VIS, cat, EGR, are removed and no spares for them.
Mods to car include HKS cat back exhaust, 3 inch downpipe, Turbosmart boost controller, HKS cam gears, new sway bar bushings and end links.
The car runs well and is garaged.


It now has just over 176,000 miles.

Some pictures that Matt sent me, an interior pic from mpg, and one in its new home with its younger sibling (really wish I had a double garage door to go side-by-side, but I'm not really complaining...just a little inconvenient. But grateful to have the space at all).

IMG_1048_W.jpgIMG_1023_W.jpgIMG_0255_W.jpgIMG_0253_W.jpgIMG_4228_W.jpgIMG_4253_W.jpgPASSIDE.jpgIMG_4222.jpeg
 
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Some issues to be addressed/future plans:

Clunking sound from front end (tie rod end/ball joint/strut mount?) I believe the sway bar bushings were replaced not many miles ago with Energy Suspension poly bushings, end links were done at the same time, I believe. Matt had mentioned this clunk had just started and I heard it on the test drive, so it's not a shock. It seemed more pronounced on the way to Indiana, clunking even when there weren't any noticeable bumps. Of course, my parents' road is gravel and covered in washboards. I don't think that did the suspension any favors.

Turbo Timer - I'll be driving it infrequently, and I am very out of the habit of driving an early turbo. I know I'll wind up shutting it off without the cooldown period if I don't add a timer. A mid-90s model is on the way. I wanted an 80s model, but I might be pressing my luck with a 90s version as far as electronics go.

Hot Start Issue - I had read an article by Jack Sabo (not sure if he's on here, but is active on 4th gen sites on facebook) about the Ignition Starter Switch, and thought it may be part of the issue. I forwarded it to the previous owner and he said he ordered the part and swapped it out. Since the ignition starter switch is already replaced, yet I still sat at the gas pump for 20 minutes, I guess I may need to either do the standard "starter relay mod", or the more in-depth mod that Jack suggests.

Oil consumption/leakage - I need to drive it more and keep an eye on this before I get too worked up. It's possible that the car hadn't lost as much as I thought on that initial drive. I did see one puff of blue smoke on startup the 2nd day, but not any of the other startups since. There is evidence of leakage ( or is it "rust prevention") on the underside though. Small frame of reference though at this point as to rate of loss, etc.

Cool the engine bay down - long term, I'd like to find a spare hood that I can cut some venting into. I'm also looking at turbo blankets and other options to contain some of the exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe heat. Of course, I am used to my '02 GT-S which has a rear facing exhaust manifold and a hood scoop that is directed toward it, and no turbo. It's reasonable that the st165 is much hotter, but I'd still like to do what I can - within reason.

Tune up - as with any car that's new to me, I prefer to do routine maintenance items. New plugs & wires and a distributor cap/rotor. It seems to be tough to find OEM or well known brands for the 1st gen 3s-gte wires & cap at this point, but hopefully I can scrounge some up. If not, I'll try whatever is available. I'll include fluid refreshing here, Toyota red coolants for both cooling systems, Redline transmission/diff fluids.

Bypass Valve - I'm thinking about a MKIV Supra bypass valve, getting either a coupler with a tee off to fit, or I suppose maybe a small pipe with a bung, and then adding a bung to the intake pipe to recirculate. I did have an APEX'i BOV on my previous st165. I wasn't running high boost, so I never noticed any major issues from the air metering, but I'm thinking BPV this time around.

Wheels - I love the 165, but I've never been a big fan of the OEM wheels. I do like the wheels that the '86-87 GT-S got, but they are also 14" and well...there just aren't many 14" tire options. For that matter, there likely aren't many 15" options. But I tend to think 16" look too big on these. I'd love to find an old set of 15" O.Z. rally wheels, but that seems unlikely. I also thought about a set of Sparco Terra, but no one in the USA seems to carry them in the 15x7 5x100 +35 option. There's another wheel I've been eyeballing, but I'm not 100% sold on it (might be too curvy for the 165). May also need a spacer (7" width, +45 offset).

JDM bits - obligatory JDM corners whenever I can find/afford/justify them. Possibly GT-Four badge & decals. I do have rear corner vents in the garage. I bought them 3 years ago and held onto them. Not JDM, but would probably need ordered either from Japan or from the same place that makes the GT-Four decal reproductions - the rear spoiler "CELICA" text has been removed. I'll probably put it back on.

Underbody cleanup - the underbody isn't bad all things considered, but I will probably try to remove whatever rusty fasteners I can and clean them up, paint them, etc.

Performance - not too worried here right now. I'd eventually like to do a rear LSD, maybe get the boost up a little higher...but I'm not trying to build a race car. I mostly want to preserve the car and keep it running/driveable.

Certainly there will be more things I find, but that's what comes to mind.

Much of this will be slow going, as I need to dedicate some time & $ to home projects before I spend too much time & $ in the garage.
 
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Thanks! It feels a little unreal at the moment. It’s just a car, don’t get me wrong, but I never really wanted to sell my first red st165 back in 2005 (and my reasoning for doing so was embarrassingly stupid). I always hoped to get one like it again.

It also feels a bit silly, since I only drive my ‘02 GT-S about 3-4k per year. Hopefully I’ll be better about exercising them both.
 
Welcome back to the party!

I don't drive much either, I've only put 22k km on my car in 13 years, but it's a lot of fun when I do get to drive it and it's nice having it as a secondary vehicle so if something acts up I'm not stressed about getting it fixed quickly.

Performance - not too worried here right now. I'd eventually like to do a rear LSD, maybe get the boost up a little higher...but I'm not trying to build a race car. I mostly want to preserve the car and keep it running/driveable.

Someone recently confirmed that the optional OEM LSD used in some newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles is an updated version of the 205 LSD and compatible with our cars. That might make the search easier and save you some money if you decide to add one.
 
Welcome back to the party!

I don't drive much either, I've only put 22k km on my car in 13 years, but it's a lot of fun when I do get to drive it and it's nice having it as a secondary vehicle so if something acts up I'm not stressed about getting it fixed quickly.



Someone recently confirmed that the optional OEM LSD used in some newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles is an updated version of the 205 LSD and compatible with our cars. That might make the search easier and save you some money if you decide to add one.
I think I saw someone post about that somewhere (here or the Facebook group I suppose), thanks for reminding me. I’ll have to make a note of what models they are so I can keep my eyes open. No rush, but never hurts to be ready in case a good deal pops up!
 
Welcome back to the party!

I don't drive much either, I've only put 22k km on my car in 13 years, but it's a lot of fun when I do get to drive it and it's nice having it as a secondary vehicle so if something acts up I'm not stressed about getting it fixed quickly.



Someone recently confirmed that the optional OEM LSD used in some newer Toyota/Lexus vehicles is an updated version of the 205 LSD and compatible with our cars. That might make the search easier and save you some money if you decide to add one.
That’s good information! Do you know what models have this updated 205 diff?
 
Awesome man. Welcome back to the party! Looks great. Funny that I REALLY wanted an ST165 over the ST185, but ended up with the 185, I am good (unless I find a clean blue ST165 lol).
I don't think you can go wrong either way. I've always had a little preference for the st165 just because my first car was a st161 and so of course, the st165 is basically the ultimate version of that car (other than weight!). And I love 80's angles.

But man, the st185 is a beautiful car. Especially with a CS hood & bumper. 🤤
 
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I don't see the point of tracking down something like a ST205 differential or carbon fiber or expensive suspension unless you are actually racing the car. I just don't understand modifying a car for performance but only for having a list of mods that can rattled off at a car meet. I like those cars and those owners but deep down I wonder when they are going to sack up and beat on that car already?

Then again racing cars is expensive because things break constantly and finding parts for rare cars either requires international connections or a machine shop that can MAKE replacement parts.
 
Went out with the intention of looking over some of the suspension bits for the clunking, but mainly wound up just staring in awe at how much oil is covering everything. I couldn’t really get under it when I changed the oil (was in a gravel driveway with a jack that barely even gave any clearance for that job, even with a couple boards under it and a 2x4 block above.

Anyway, there’s pretty much oil everywhere underneath. The sway bar is wet on both ends. The plastic that covers the brake lines is pretty wet as well.

Bad on me for not picking up on this better from the underbody pictures that were provided.

At least it doesn’t need to be a daily driver.
 
It doesn't take that big a leak to soak everything, and who knows how long the leak was given to work by the previous owner. Think of the plus side: All that oil was a rust preventative and might have served to keep the rubber young.

If you have the ability to get it up higher so you can get under it, you can take a bottle of degreaser and a couple of rolls of shop towels to it and clean it up. Then you can find out exactly what is leaking and address it.

You'll want to do this for spiritual as well as practical reasons and it will yield a reward but not until it's done.
 
Think of the plus side: All that oil was a rust preventative and might have served to keep the rubber young.
Yeah, thinking of its rust preventing benefits was my first (positive) thought. Heck, after I thought about how it seemed to follow directly on the brake lines headed rearward I tried to convince myself that maybe one of the previous owners had sprayed it with oil for that purpose. But that's probably wishful thinking, it seems unlikely that so much would still be as wet as it is.

I'll need to get it up a bit higher. My floor jack is heavier duty and quite a bit higher lift than my dad's, but it still doesn't give a ton of space, I'll need to give it a boost to get a bit more breathing room. I did wipe a little bit up with a shop towel, but I didn't really dig in or spray anything yet.

Like you said though, aside from getting it clean to have a better idea *where* it's coming from, I also need to have more time to determine how quickly it's actually leaking. Maybe it is long-term build up and not just leaking like a sieve. 🤞
 
Yeah, that's why I changed it before the trip home & tried to keep an eye on it on that relatively short (4 hour) trip. I did figure it must be losing it relatively quickly.

I had been told it went through maybe around 1/4 qt. on a round trip to Michigan and back the previous weekend, and also that the oil was changed by someone (not the PO but he had someone do it) and that they had "spilled" quite a bit. There's no way it was all spillage from that though. Not to call into question the honesty of anyone, just meaning there is certainly some decent leakage happening. There was oil all the way up by the passenger firewall/strut tower/up by the cowl though...so I'm not sure an actual oil leak can even spray all the way up into that area?

But, I honestly don't think it ever read "full" on the dipstick (while on level ground) after I changed the oil. I put in 4 quarts and didn't want to overfill. I don't want to add any more until I see the level go down from the approximate halfway point it showed when I put in the 4 quarts. I didn't spill any.
😅
 
Noice!

This is how I would approach a situation like you described. One, like Underscore said, don't drive it no more until you can get this figured out.

Get it up. Drain all the oil, because then you can be sure it's not still seeping while you're cleaning.

Get two bottles of degreaser and three rolls of shop towels and a big black garden bag to put them in and some sturdy nitrile gloves.

Put on some bitchin' tunes.

Spray the piss out of the whole underbody and start cleaning. Pay attention to what areas seem particularly wet with oil (or other fluid--might be dirty dexron ATV or brake fluid or hell even gear oil if it was overfull I've had that myself) as you clean. That might give you some suggestions as to where it might be leaking from.
 
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