The engine rebuild shall begun

[CosmicWanderer]

Hi, for those who don't know, here's my introductory post and now the time has came to start to repair the engine. Took almost half a day to pull it out, considering the car was rotting for 20 years, no parts, except inner CV joint, were damaged. The CV had its balls bearings flying out, but I think I saved that as well. Lucky. Maybe.

So far so good. Holy sh*t though. This engine is pretty much complicated, considering my experience seen in lots of Mercedes-Benz, VW, Audi, BMW, Renault etc., engines. Especially the wiring harness and coolant hoses.

I have yet to remove some remaining coolant hoses near the dizzy, see if I have to remove oil pump, water pump, and then start to remove valve cover, then camshafts and.. cylinder head. After removing the intake manifold, I can see through the valves that the piston #3 is catastrophically damaged. Each minute passes by, I'm eager to know what the hell is going on to cause 0 psi compression. A hole in piston? Valve damage causing not to close properly? Cracked head? I don't know. I just hope not the last one. By the way, I've seen pretty much lots of engine oil near the valves, and some CHRA debris that were stuck there. Here's a piece of debris:

Focus isn't clear, but it's metal.


Now, I'm a bit worried about T-VIS. In the video attached, you can see a little bit of play in the butterfly valves. Is this ok? Would it cause loss of power?


I'll keep you updated.

 

[Gert]

That is not a little bit of play, that is a lot of play!
This is how it starts and in the end the butterfly's come loose when that happens this piece is walking through the engine distroying head, valves and turbo, not good, ask me how I know.... :-(

But that is not your problem with no compression. Probably an melted piston. Probably due too much boost for too long time.
Not good, ask me how I know....
I must have some pics somewhere.

 

[Gert]

Cilinderwall:
http://www.celica.dds.nl/plaatjes/rebuild/wall1.jpg
Piston:
http://www.celica.dds.nl/plaatjes/pis35topk.jpg

 

[CosmicWanderer]

That is not a little bit of play, that is a lot of play!
This is how it starts and in the end the butterfly's come loose when that happens this piece is walking through the engine distroying head, valves and turbo, not good, ask me how I know.... :-(

But that is not your problem with no compression. Probably an melted piston. Probably due too much boost for too long time.
Not good, ask me how I know....
I must have some pics somewhere.

I have eagerly read your story when the T-VIS got damaged, I often delve myself into your post and read. Well, that is unfortunate! I guess I'll have to remove the butterfly valves and leave it fully open.

And I got a big update! I was able to pull the cylinder head and, fortunately, it was not what I was afraid of - at least how I can see with bare eyes (still needs machine testing).


Before pulling out cylinder head, I noticed something unusual - the intake valves of cylinder #3 were not properly closed. This could explain why there's 0 psi in the cylinder.



The cylinder block. look the #3 piston - the second from the right - its outermost surface is full of pinholes!


The piston #3.



And this is the cylinder head #3. Take a look at its surface - lots of metallic pieces stuck on it.


This is the other side - the surface is grinded!


Another POV.

Considering the metallic pieces I found, maybe this could be debris from CHRA, OR an foreign object (or a spark plug tip maybe?) got somehow into intake manifold, then to the cylinders, then through exhaust valves has damaged the turbocharger - all due to fact that main damage on the turbo is on the exhaust side. Who knows.

------------

Now, I planned to replace the 4 pistons as well. I know that there are marks 1,2,3 but I'm not sure where to find these marks? Is it stamped on the piston head? Or it's on the sides? On the head there's "2C, 2C, 2D, 2D" stamped, from piston #1 to #4, but this is a bit confusing?

 

[Monachopsis]

I'd just find Wisecos after either boring or rehoning if you want new new. Used pistons work though. OEM is deadass 500 USD a set on my side of the world. That damage is my nightmare, holy....

 

[Gert]

Marks on the head are for the bearing caps camshaft.

Pistons are having an mark on top of the piston.
This is my piston (ST205 piston) when I rebuilded mine.
http://www.celica.dds.nl/plaatjes/rebuild/pisos1.jpg

 

[Gert]

BTW, very curious how your nr.3 piston looks like after removal.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

I'd just find Wisecos after either boring or rehoning if you want new new. Used pistons work though. OEM is deadass 500 USD a set on my side of the world. That damage is my nightmare, holy....

I don't I need boring or rehoning. Don't know fully yet, still needs machine testing. I plan to to get OEM pistons around 50$ each.

Marks on the head are for the bearing caps camshaft.

Pistons are having an mark on top of the piston.
This is my piston (ST205 piston) when I rebuilded mine.
http://www.celica.dds.nl/plaatjes/rebuild/pisos1.jpg

Hmm. On bearings I can't see the markings. The rod bearings are somewhat in good shape in contrast to crank bearings - they are in horrible condition.

Though take a look at this picture:


Piston #1 and #2 have this "2" mark on the rod cap, and piston #3 and #4 have mark "3" on the rod cap. Does this mean that the rod bearings are mark 2,2,3,3?

As for the crank bearings, only the bigger bearing (middle one) I see the number "2" stamped. Take a look:


However, as per BGB, on the cylinder block this is stamped:

"22223"

And in the crankshaft:

"11110"

So, according to BGB, again, I should sum these up, all of these return mark "3". Does this mean that crankshaft bearings are mark "3"? If that's case, why the middle one has no. "2"? Confusing.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

BTW, very curious how your nr.3 piston looks like after removal.

Sure, here you go, I attached them here.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Now, one may ask: why turbocharger got totally destroyed, causing engine damage? Well, I may (finally) found the cause.

A little bit of context: previous owner told me that he spotted oil leak which came from around the turbo. Then, he went to a local mechanic to fix the issue - as per mechanic words the faulty part was a seal ring (is there any seal ring around the turbo though? Guess no).

Cool. Previous owner then drove the car a bit, then maybe few days later, while cruising he heard a loud BANG noise coming from the engine. He then stated that heard a rod-knock like noise coming from the engine. He turned it off, to be rotting away for 20 years.

While disassembling the engine block I removed the turbo oil feed screw. I will not comment the picture attached below.

So yeah, it is guaranteed that when you remove all the engine oil from the engine, any kind of oil leakage that is happening will stop.

The turbocharger except that it got its CHRA destroyed, now got a pressure drop due to damages in the outer exhaust side. The turbo guy I sent the turbo to, is still trying to fix it, from March 2024 till now.

 

[Monachopsis]

you could check the tolerances and then buy the right size ACL or kings. Those are just based on oil clearnances.

 

[Gert]

Sure, here you go, I attached them here.

Geez, not as nasty as mine, but that was soon to be happened. Detonated till destruction....

 

[Gert]

(is there any seal ring around the turbo though? Guess no).

Yes, there is. Like I mentioned in an other topic. I had nasty oil consumption once due to bad bearings and seals. That was the CT27 from ATS.

 

[Gert]

That was here: https://www.alltrac.net/index.php?threads/t-vis-gone-bad-engine-damaged.52839/page-4#post-493914

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Now, here's where the confusion arises, and I need help.

The page 288 in the Toyota's manual for 3S-GTE engine states that one must add cylinder block number and crankshaft number to get bearing number. Now, since I can't see any numbers marked in the bearings, I must sum them up. In block I have "22223" and in crank I have "11110", they all return mark "3", so 5 numbers.

However, I've noticed this number on no. 3 crank bearing:

It is stamped "2".

Now, if the no. 3 is different (because there are the thrust washers as well), why there's 5 numbers stamped on block and crank? Contradicts itself?

Due to this, I'm not sure if I should get the mark "2" for no.3, and for the rest bearings get mark "3", or should get all mark 3 for all the crank bearings.

P.S.: I can't really use a plastigauge here, because the condition of crank bearings is not good - it got lots of scratches, but fortunately the crankshaft is good - maybe needs just a micropolish.

See some pictures:

 

[Gert]

The page 288 in the Toyota's manual for 3S-GTE engine states that one must add cylinder block number and crankshaft number to get bearing number. Now, since I can't see any numbers marked in the bearings, I must sum them up. In block I have "22223" and in crank I have "11110", they all return mark "3", so 5 numbers.

I should go with the advise: replace it with the one having the same number.
And where you don't see a number on the bearing: it points to bearing number 3.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

I should go with the advise: replace it with the one having the same number.
And where you don't see a number on the bearing: it points to bearing number 3.

Since can't really find OE (discontinued, they say) main bearings, I went after Kolbenschmidt's STD, which, as I've read in other forums, aftermarket bearings replace 1,2,3 marks since Toyota OE uses tighter tolerances. Still waiting for them to come, meanwhile I ordered 2 pcs of mark 2 and 2 pcs of mark 3 conrod bearings. Eagerly waiting for those parts to come. Ah yes, a plastigauge as well. Let's see...

 

[CosmicWanderer]

While I wait, I am cleaning out the parts. Take a look at this dirty cylinder head:

Look at it now:

 

[CosmicWanderer]

New day, new worries. After a soft surface clean of cylinder block, I've noticed a few abnormalities in the bridge of coolant passages.

Seems like using water instead of a high quality coolant made this damage. Don't know how serious this will be, unless it is precisely machine tested. Maybe I need to grind it. Though, I'm not sure about thickness of OE cylinder head gasket, I read somewhere that is around 1.01 mm. The one I will be replacing, VIC REI or ajusa, will be 1.3mm. Maybe it'll compensate for the grinding, maybe not, don't know yet.

 

[CosmicWanderer]

Ah yes, in this particular spot on the cylinder block:

I found this:

A valve stem seal. But it's not mine.